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Bequeathed  by  Charles  H.Baker 
to  Edward  Larrabee  Baker.  M 
From  the  library  of  Charles 
Minton  Baker, 
Oct.i8,i8o4  —  Feb.i.  1872. 


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SIGHTS 


BOSTON    AND    SUBURBS, 


GUIDE  TO  THE  STRANGER. 


R.  L.  MIDGLET, 


ILLUSTRATED    BY 


BILLINGS,  HILL,  BARRY,  AND  JOHN  ANDREW. 


BOSTON  AND   CAMBRIDGE: 
JAMES    MUNROE    AND    COMPANY. 

1857. 


Enwreel  ac&ording  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1856,  by 

JOHN    xyVREVf, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  tlie  District  of  Massachusetts. 


ET.ECTROTYPED  AT  THE 
BOSTON     STEUE  OTYPE    FOUNDRT. 


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PHEFACE. 


The  -want  of  a  Guide  such  as  the  one  here 
presented  to  the  Travelling  Public,  has  been  so 
long  felt  and  so  generally  acknowledged,  that 
an  apology  for  the  present  work  would  be  an 
impeachment  of  the  judgment  of  the  intelligent 
Tourist. 

This  work,  although  more  particularly  designed 
for  the  use  of  travellers,  will  be  found  of  great 
service  to  the  public  generally,  for  few  of  the 
inhabitants  know  where  to  see  the  sights  in 
the   city,  nor  how  to   see  them. 

The  materials  for  this  publication  have  been 
collected  with  great  care,  and  here  "the  writer 
wishes  it  distinctly  understood,  that  he  has  not 
hesitated  to  gather  his  materials  wherever  he 
could  find  them,   availing  himself   in   the  freest 


2  PREFACE. 

manner,  not  only  of  the  researches  of  others, 
but  even  of  their  very  language,  whenever  it 
happened  to   suit  his   purpose." 

He  also  takes  occasion  to  express  his  acknowl- 
edgments to  Mr.  H.  W.  Fuller,  of  Boston, 
Mr.  W.  A.  Crafts,  of  Roxbury,  and  Mr.  Wm. 
F.  Poole,  the  Liljrarian  of  the  Boston  Athenaeum, 
for   copious   materials   furnished   by  them. 

This  little  volume  is  not  intended  as  a 
history,  nor  as  an  index  to  the  many  public 
institutions,  for  which  this  city  is  so  famous, 
but  as  a  guide  to  those  sights  that  are  par- 
ticularly deserving  the  attention  of  citizens  and 
strangers. 

We  have  adhered  as  rigidly  as  possible  to 
a  direct  route,  describing  each  object  in  order 
as  it  is  reached,  and  classing  them  according 
to   subjects   in   the  index. 

BoSTox,  August  22,  1856. 


INDEX  TO  SUBJECTS. 


Addenda, Page  215 

Ancient  and  Modern  Boston,        ......  6 

Birthplace  of  Franklin, 28 

Boston  Harbor, 190 

Boston  Stone.  .........       6 

Frog  Pond, 79 

CHURCHES. 

Brattle  St.  Church 110 

Old  South  Church 21 

Park  Street  Church 63 

Stone  Chapel, 31 

CEMETERIES. 

Copp'sHill, 117 

Chapel  Biu'ying  Ground, 31 

Granary  "  53 

Forest  Hill  " 202 

Mount  Auburn         "  .......       144 

Woodlawn  " 167 

Daily  Papers 20 

Harvard  University, 133 

Lowell  Institute, 108 

Massachusetts  Historical  Society, 39 

Society  of  Natural  History, 100 

Mercantile 105 

Club  House, 44 

Common,  ..........     68 

Courts 30 

Court  House, 29 

United  States  Courts, Ill 


INDEX   TO    SUBJECTS. 


DEPOTS. 

Eastern, 114 

Fitthbiirg, 116 

Lowell 113 

Maine, 119 

Old  Colony  and  Fall  River, 89 

Pro\'idence, ..........  81 

Worcester, 86 

FORTIFICATIONS. 

Cambridge, 131 

Dorchester, 176 

Fort  Indei>endence, 195 

Fort  Warren • .         .         .         .  191 

Fort  Wintlirop,        .         . 197 

Harbor,  Boston, 190 

HALLS. 

Chapman  Hall, 31 

Cochituate    " 46 

Ilorticuhural  Hall, 31 

Mercantile         ♦'  107 

Faneuil  " 10 


ISLANDS,  (in  Boston  Harbor.) 

Castle  Island, 193 

Deer        « 191 

George's  " 191 

Long       << 191 

Lower  Light  Island, 191 

NLx'sMate        «• 191 

Rainsford  «' 191 

Spectacle  «' 191 

Thompson's        "........•  197 

Governor's         " 197 


LIBRARIES. 

Prince  Jl,ibrary, 28 

^lercantile  Library, 106 


INDEX   TO    SUBJECTS.  0 

Public  Library, 8:5 

Athenrcum  ".........  i'-i 

Harvard       «' 133 

Society  of  Natural  History, 103 

^lassachusetts  Historical  Society,      .         .         .         .         .         .  iO 

Athenajum,           .........  41 

Masonic  Temple 56 

Time  Lodges  meet,       . 58 

MONUMENTS. 

National  IMonujient  to  the  Forefathers,  .         .         .         .92 

Hunker  ILll       •' 154 

WaiTen              "             ........  155 

Nahant, 181 

Nahant  Beach 183 

Egg  Rock, 184 

Iron  Mine,       ...          ........  184 

Spouting  Horn,    .........  184 

Saunders's  Ledge 183 

Castle  Rock, 184 

Caldron  Cliff, 185 

Roaring  Cavern,            ........  185 

Natm-al  Bridge 185 

Pulpit  Rock, 185 

Swallows'  Cave,       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .186 

Irene's  Grotto, ' .  187 

Nahant  House,   ' 187 

Old  House, 3 

Post  Office, 18 

Public  Garden, 81 

PUBLIC  INSTITUTIONS. 

Public  Libraiy, 83 

Massachusetts  General  Hospital 121 

McLean  Asylum, 123 

Medical  College, 124 

City  Jail 125 

Eye  and  Ear  Infirmar\', 127 

Perkins  Institute  for  the  Blind, 176 

Quarantine, 191 

Almshouse 193 

Earm  School, 191 

States  Prison, .  161 


1^'DEX    TO    SUBJECTS. 


PLACES  OF  AMUSEMENT. 

Music  Hall, 54 

Huston  Theatre, 95 

Melodeon, 101 

Oidway's  Hall 10 'J 

Howard  Athcnaium,         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .111 

National  Theatre, 112 

Museum,         ..........     35 

Tremout  Temple, 47 

PUBLIC  BUILDINGS. 

U.  S.  Custom  House 14 

Faneuil  Hall  Market, 11 

FaneuU  Hall 9 

Exchange,  ..........  IG 

Old  State  House ,    .        .         .19 

State  House,         .........  50 

Post  Office 18 

Court  House,        .........  29 

City  Hall 28 

Public  Library, 83 

U.  S.  Courts, Ill 

SQUARES. 

Bowdoin  Square Ill 

Dock  «'  3 

Haymarket  «' 119 

Franklm       "  200 

Blackstone  «« 199 

SUBURBAN  SIGHTS. 

Cambridge, 131 

Concord 134 

Lexington, 175 

Dorchester  Heights, 176 

Nahant 181 

Bishop's  Palace, 138 

"NVaslungton's  Residence,      .         .         .        .        .         .        .  14 1 

Riedesel  Hotise, 141 


INDEX    TO    SUBJECTS. 


RAILROADS. 


Providence, •         81 

Worcester,      .         .         .         .         .         .         .         •         .         .87 

Old  Colony  and  Fall  River 89 

Cambridge,  (Horse,)         .         .         •         .         .         .         •         .111 
Lowell,        .        .         .         .         .         •         .        •        •         .113 

Eastern, 115 

Fitchburg 117 

Maine 120 

TREES. 

Great  Elm 71 

Washington  Elm 142 


EOSTON    SIGHTS 


CHAPTER    I. 

DOCK-SQUARE, OLD    HOUSE. BOSTON    STONE. 


You  are  a  stranger  in 
Boston,  and  desirous  of 
visiting  the  principal 
objects  of  interest  in  the 
"  City  of  Notions," 
This  little  book  is  in- 
tended to  be  a  Guide, 
not  a  History  ;  therefore 
we  shall  not  enter  into  any  details  respecting  the  rise 
and  progress  of  Boston.     If  you  know  nothing  of  that, 


2  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

but  are  desirous  of  such  information,  procure  Drake's 
History,  published  by  Stevens,  Washington-street,  and  in 
it  you  will  find  all  you  require. 

"We  will,  then,  suppose  you  have  arrived  in  Boston,  and 
that,  having  located  yourself  at  one  of  its  many  spacious 
hotels,  you  have  commenced  your  tour  of  the  city.  It  is 
always  well  to  have  some  defined  point  to  start  from,  and 
therefore  we  will  select  Dock-square  as  the  scene  of  our 
first  exploration. 

Dock-square.  —  It  is  not  a  square  now,  in  the  pleasant 
acceptation  of  the  word,  though  probably  "  once  upon  a 
time  "  it  was.  Very  long  ago  grass  might  have  grown 
there,  and  trees  flourished,  and  birds  sung,  and  no  dock 
ever  have  been  dreamed  of.  Only  a  prowling  Indian, 
in  search  of  a  squaw  or  a  scalp,  might  have  been  seen  in 
the  vicinity,  and  all  excitement  have  been  confined  to  a 
palaver  around  the  council-fire.  But  a  truce  to  the  past ; 
it  is  Dock-square,  and  nothing  else,  now. 

And,  in  lieu  of  groves  or  glades,  we  have  a  busy,  open 
space,  with  labyrinthine  thoroughfares  leading  into  and  out 
of  it.  Bustling,  anxious-faced  men  are  to  be  seen  there 
at  all  hours  of  the  day,  rushing  hither  and  thither,  intent 
on  dollars  and  dimes.  House  and  hotel  keepers  pay 
flying  visits  to  the  market  close  by ;  visitors  from  all  parts 
of  the  States  look  curiously  at  the  "  Cradle  of  Liberty;  " 
omnibuses  rush  along,   distracting    perilled   pedestrians ; 


dock-squakj:.  o 

market-carts,  laden  with  country  produce,  stand  sur- 
rounded by  dealers,  and  everything  is  full  of  life  and 
animation.  Looking  calmly  down  upon  and  over- 
shadowing tliis  scene  of  commercial  activity,  is  a  huge 
structure  —  Faneuil  Hall.  Of  it  we  shall  presently 
speak.  At  present  let  us  direct  our  glance  to  —  artis- 
tically speaking  —  a  "  bit  "  of  Old  Boston. 


Old  House.  —  There  it  stands  at  the  corner  of  North 
and  Market  streets,  dingy,  quaint,  time-battered,  many- 
gabled,  but  picturesque,  for  all  that.     They  say  it  was  built 


4  BOSTON    SKIHTS. 

in  the  year  1680,  soon  after  the  great  fire  of  1679.  The 
peaks  of  the  roof  remain  precisely  as  they  were  first 
erected,  the  frame  and  external  appearance  never  having 
been  altered.  The  timber  used  in  the  building  was  prin- 
cipally oak,  and,  where  it  has  been  kept  dry,  is  perfectly 
sound,  and  intensely  hard.  The  outside  is  covered  with 
plastering,  or  what  is  commonly  called  rough-cast.  But 
instead  of  pebbles,  which  are  generally  used  at  the  present 
day  to  make  a  hard  surface  on  the  mortar,  broken  glass 
was  used.  This  glass  appears  like  that  of  common  junk- 
bottles,  broken  into  pieces  of  about  half  an  inch  diameter, 
the  sharp  corners  of  which  penetrate  the  cement  in  such  a 
manner  that  this  great  lapse  of  years  has  had  no  percep- 
tible efi"ect  upon  them.  The  figures  1080  were  impressed 
into  tlie  rough-cast  to  show  the  year  of  its  erection, 
and  are  now  perfectly  legible.  This  surface  was  also 
variegated  with  ornamental  squares,  diamonds,  and  flowers- 
de-luce.  The  building  is  only  two  stories  high,  and  is 
about  thirty-two  feet  long  and  seventeen  wide ;  yet  tra- 
dition informs  us  that  it  was  once  the  residence  of  two 
respectable  families,  and  the  front  part  was  at  the  same 
time  occupied  for  two  shops,  or  stores. 

Before  long,  perhaps,  the  giant  Progress  may,  in  his 
march  of  improvement,  tread  down  this  ancient  dwelling; 
and  where  the  sunshine  and  the  moonlight  glimmered  on 
its  dim  windows  for  years,  great  granite,   unpicturesque 


OLD    HOUSE. 


warehouses  may  rise  and  throw  grim  commercial  shadows 
over  the  thoroughfare.  But  we  have  an  antiquarian's 
desire  that  it  may  remain,  if  only  as  a  memorial  of  the 
early  days  of  Boston.  Its  very  dinginess  is  delightful. 
From  the  upper  windows,  just  beneath  those  peaked  roofs, 
some  gentleman  of  the  olden  days  might,  "  once  upon  a 
time,"  have  looked  upon  his  little  ones  sporting  among 
the  daisies  of  his  garden ;  or  some  pretty  maiden  have 
watched  its  lozenge-shaped  panes  flashing  back  the  moon- 
beams as  she  sauntered  home  with  her  lover  from  their 
evening  walk  in  the  mall  on  Boston  Common;  for  as  early 
as  1646  that  now  unrivalled  promenade  was  so  called. 

Few  care  about  the  old  North-street  house,  now-a-days. 
In  neglect  and  decay,  it  is  eclipsed  by  its  modern  neigh- 
bors. Careless  and  careful  folk  alike  hurry  by  it ;  but 
occasionally  children  lift  up  their  little,  wondering  eyes  to 
the  strange  habitation.  And  to  them  it  is  indeed  strange ; 
they  are  so  used  to  newness  and  novelty,  that  they  can 
scarcely  comprehend  antiquity.  To  many  a  youthful 
*  mind  an  old-fashioned  house  raises  ideas  of  spectral  ladies 
and  gentlemen  walking  up  and  down  impossible  stairs,  or 
gliding  through  dreary  rooms,  or  of  ghostly  individuals 
loudly  clanking  invisible  chains  ;  but  in  the  case  of  this 
old  dwelling  of  North-street  such  dismal  ideas  are  rapidly 
put  to  flight  by  furs  hanging  out  of  the  windows,  and 
1* 


6  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

various  articles  for  sale  in  the  stores  beneath.  Super- 
stition flies  before  "  Sales  for  Cash  !  " 

Boston  Stone,  a  sketch  of  which  forms  the  vignette 
illustration  of  this  chapter,  was  found  in  the  cellar  of  a 
house  in  Marshall-street.  A  resident  in  the  neighborhood 
says  it  was  a  paint-mill,  the  ball  being  what  painters  now 
call  the  muUer.  The  paint  was  placed  in  the  cavity  of  a 
flat  stone,  and  there  ground  with  oil  by  the  ball.  Other 
explanations  as  to  the  origin  and  uses  of  this  Boston 
Stone  are  afloat,  but  it  is  needless  to  repeat  them  here. 
The  stone  itself,  however,  is  worthy  of  inspection,  and 
deserves,  perhaps,  an  antiquarian  immortality. 

Dr.  J.  V.  C.  Smith,  in  his  "  Ancient  and  Modern 
Boston,"  published  in  the  Boston  Almanac  for  1853,  says  : 
'  There  are  reminiscences  connected  with  the  growth  of 
Boston  that  deserve  to  be  kept  in  remembrance.  For 
example,  where  the  Maine  Station  House,  in  Haymarket- 
square,  stands,  there  was  an  open  canal  but  a  few  years 
ago,  and  the  line  of  the  track  is  over  the  course  of  it  to 
the  water.  Where  Causeway-street  is,  there  was  formerly 
a  wall  from  Lowell-street,  running  north-easterly  to  rear 
of  Charlestown  old  bridge,  called  the  Causeway,  making  a 
pond  of  many  acres,  between  Prince  and  Pitts  streets. 
Many  aged  persons  are  in  the  habit  of  calling  all  that 
region  between  Merrimac  and  Prince  streets,  to  this  day, 
the  Mill  PoTid.     A  remnant  of  the  last  tide-mill  is  still 


ANCIENT   AND    MODERN    BOSTON.  7 

believed  to  exist  on  the  east  side  of  Charlestown-street,  in 
the  form  of  a  stable.  All  of  that  large  tract  of  land 
known  technically  as  the  South  Cove  was  actually  a  body 
of  water,  covering  an  area  of  seventy-two  acres,  within 
the  recollection  of  those  not  far  removed  from  childhood. 
The  Neck  may  truly  be  said  to  be  nearly  all  artificial. 
Where  the  wide  street  runs  to  Roxbury,  was  a  mere 
ridge,  scarcely  removed  from  the  reach  of  high  tides,  at  the 
period  of  the  Hevolution.  By  building  the  Boston  and 
Roxbury  Mill-dam,  the  whole  of  the  back  bay,  between 
Washington-street  and  the  wall,  was  reclaimed  from 
Charles  river  and  the  ocean. 

"  Whole  streets  have  been  detached  from  the  domain  of 
Neptune,  as  India,  Broad,  Commercial,  Brighton,  nearly 
the  whole  of  Charles,  Fayette,  and  several  more  that  are 
now  at  considerable  distance  from  the  water.  At  East 
Boston  very  large  additions  to  the  territory  have  been 
made  withhi  a  few  years.  All  the  wharves,  by  which 
Boston  is  nearly  surrounded,  are  certainly  artificial  works, 
of  immense  cost,  but  esteemed  excellent  and  productive 
property.  It  is  not  improbable  that  men  are  now  living 
who  remember  to  have  seen  the  bows^jrit  of  vessels  pro- 
jecting into  Liberty-square." 

Boston  is  styled  the  Athens  of  America.  It  should 
have  been  the  State.  In  Boston  the  princely  merchant's 
warehouse  presents  the  appearance  of  a  palace,  massive 


8 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


and  grand.  His  counting-room  is  a  picture  of  opulence, 
spacious  and  beautiful ;  his  ware-rooms  are  crowded  with 
the  products  of  manufacture.  Massive  buildings  of 
granite,  all  presenting  the  neatest  and  brightest  appear- 
ance, everywhere  meet  the  eye.  Along  the  •  wharves 
immense  ranges  of  warehouses  extend  the  whole  length, 
at  which  the  finest  ships  are  discharging  their  foreign 
cargoes.  Again,  encircling  her  "  Common,"  rise  in  beau- 
teous outlines  spacious  mansions,  having  the  appearance 
of  palaces,  and  presenting  a  scene  of  quiet  beauty, 
unsurpassed  by  anything  in  the  world ;  they  are  the 
residences  of  her  merchant  princes.  The  whole  scene  is 
clothed  in  neatness,  regularity,  and  good  order  ;  there  is  a 
characteristic  quietness  about  it  which  the  people  of  Mas- 
sachusetts have  made  their  own.  Her  public  men  are  far- 
seeing,  discreet,  and  dignified ;  and  when  they  move  it  is  to 
some  purpose.  Her  merchants  are  cautious,  systematic  in 
their  business  transactions,  ready  to  advance  in  their 
proper  time,  and  distinguished  from  that  recklessness 
which  marks  the  New  Yorker. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PANEUIL  HALL. FANEUIL  HALL  MARKET. CUSTOM 

HOUSE. EXCHANGE.  —  OLD  STATE  HOUSE. 


We  must  not  leave  this  neighborhood  yet,  for  the  Old 
House  we  have  just  been  desci'ibing  is  not  the  only  object 
of  interest  hereabout.  There  is  another  noticeable  build- 
ing —  second,  indeed,  m  interest  to  no  other  in  Boston. 

(9) 


10  BOSTON   SIGtHTS. 

It  is  Faxeuil  Hall,  or,  as  it  is  patriotically  and  meta- 
pliorically  termed,  "  The  Cradle  of  American  Liberty." 
Kot  to  Boston  alone,  but  to  the  entire  country  does  it 
seem  to  belong ;  for  in  the  annals  of  America  it  holds  a 
foremost  and  most  honorable  position.  Within  its  walls 
some  of  the  finest  specimens  of  American  eloquence  that 
have  been  heard  from  the  days  of  TTashington  to  those 
of  "Webster  were  delivered.  When  despotism  threatened 
the  colonies  of  .George  the  Third,  the  first  tones  of  defi- 
ance were  uttered  in  Faneuil  Hall.  Liberty  held  there 
her  high  court,  and  from  thence  issued  decrees  a  thousand 
times  more  potent  than  a  king's  proclamation  or  a  czar's 
ukase.  What  wonder,  then,  that  from  far  and  near  come 
admiring  visitors  to  it,  or  that  Boston  should  be  proud  of 
its  possession  ? 

Years  ago  there  lived  in  Boston  a  merchant  whose 
name  was  Peter  Faneuil.  He  it  Avas  who  immortalized 
his  name  by  the  gift  of  the  building  to  the  town  of  Bos- 
ton, for  a  town  hall  and  market  place.  It  was  the  best 
monument  to  his  memory  that  he  could  possibly  have 
devised.  Faneuil  Hall  is  a  large,  many-windowed  struc- 
ture, of  no  particular  order  of  architecture,  surmounted 
by  a  cupola.  The  great  hall  to  which  you  ascend  (for 
the  lower  story  is  not  a  market  now,  but  is  divided  into 
stores)  is  seventy-six  feet  square,  and  twenty-eight  high ; 
round  three  sides  runs  a  gallery,  and  Doric  pillars  sup- 


FANEUIL    HALL. 


11 


port  tlie  ceiling.  At  the  Avest  end  are  several  paintings 
—  one  of  Peter  Faneuil  in  full  length ;  another  of  Wash- 
ington by  Stuart ;  and  there  has  recently  been  added 
Healey's  picture  of  Webster  making  his  celebrated  speech 
in  reply  to  Hayne. 

Over  the  great  hall  is  another,  where  military  equip- 
ments are  kept;  and  there  are  also  various  offices  for 
civic  functionaries. 

Leaving  Faneuil  Hall  at  its  eastern  end,  and  crossing 


Merchants'  Row,  we  arrive  at  the  entrance  of  Faneuil 
Hall  Market.     It  is  raised  on  a  base  of  blue  Quincy 


12  BOSTON   SIGHTS. 

granite,  with  arched  windows  and  doors  communicating 
with  cellars.  The  length  of  the  Market  is  five  hundred 
and  eighty-five  feet  nine  mches,  the  width  fifty  feet,  and 
built  entirely  of  granite.  In  the  centre  is  a  building 
seventy-four  and  a  half  by  fifty-five  feet,  Avith  projecting 
north  and  south  fronts.  At  each  end  of  the  building  are 
porticos.  Over  the  Market  proper  is  a  second  story,  in 
the  centre  of  which  is  a  hall  seventy  feet  by  fifty,  crowned 
by  a  dome,  and  named  Quincy  Hall,  after  Josiah  Quincy, 
former  mayor  of  the  city,  and  is  but  a  fitting  monument 
of  his  genius.  This  hall  and  Faneuil  Hall  are  united  by 
a  bridge  thrown  across  the  street  once  in  three  years,  and 
in  them  the  Massachusetts  Mechanics'  Charitable  Associa- 
tion holds  its  fair. 

The  principal  entrances  to  the  corridor,  Avhere  the  mar- 
ket is  held,  are  from  the  eastern  and  western  porticos. 
The  corridor  itself  is  eight  hundred  and  twelve  feet  long 
by  twelve  wide.  This  space  is  divided  into  stalls,  where 
various  articles  of  provisions  are  always  on  sale.  There 
are  fourteen  departments  for  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  and 
poultry ;  two  for  poultry  and  venison ;  nineteen  for  pork, 
lamb,  mutton,  and  poultry ;  forty-five  for  beef;  four  for 
butter  and  cheese ;  nineteen  for  vegetables ;  and  twenty 
for  fish.  Besides  these,  the  visitor  will,  as  he  strolls  from 
stall  to  stall,  perceive  many  varieties  of  creature  comfort ; 
and  in  one  place  he  will  be  charmed  with  the  melody  of 


^  CUSTOM    UOUSE.  13 

birds  offered  for  sale  in  cages,  and  his  olfactories  may  be 
regaled  by  odors  from  countless  bouquets. 

Faneuil  Hall  Market  was  commenced  on  the  20th  of 
August,  1824.  Beneath  the  corner  stone  was  deposited 
a  plate  bearing  the  following  inscription  :  — 

"  Faneuil  Hall  Market,  established  by  the  city  of 
Boston.  This  stone  was  laid  April  27,  Anno  Domini 
Mdcccxxv.,  in  the  forty-ninth  year  of  American  Inde- 
pendence, and  in  the  third  of  the  incorporation  of  the 
city.  John  Quincy  Adams,  President  of  the  United 
States.  Marcus  Morton,  Lt.  Governor  and  Commander- 
in-Chief  of  the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts.  The 
population  of  the  city  estimated  at  50,000 ;  that  of  the 
United  States,  11,000,000." 

The  Market  is  situated  between  North  and  South  Mar- 
ket Streets,  in  each  of  which  business  of  various  kinds,  to 
immense  amounts,  is  transacted. 

Leaving  the  Market,  a  few  steps  through  Commercial 
Street  bring  us  to  the  United  States  Custom  House. 
It  is  an  imposing  edifice,  standing  at  the  head  of  the  dock 
between  Long  and  Central  "Wharves,  at  the  foot  of  State 
Street.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  the  opposite 
sides  and  ends  being  alike.  It  is  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  long,  north  and  south,  seventy-five  feet  wide  at  the 
ends,  and  ninety-five  feet  through  the  centre.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  flat  dome,  which  is  ninety-five  feet  from 
2 


14 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


the  floor,  and  i>  built  in  the  pm-e  Doric  order  of  architec 
ture.  Each  iront  has  a  portico  of  six  fluted  Doric  cci- 
umns,  thirty-two  feet  in  height,  and  five  feet  four  inches  in 
diameter,  and  is  a])proached  by  fourteen  steps.  The  col- 
umns are  in  one  piece  of  highly-wrought  granite,  and  each 
weighs  forty-two  tons. 


The  Custom  House  is  built  on  three  thousand  piles, 
driven  in  the  most  thorough  manner.  Immediately  on  the 
top  of  tliese  piles  is  a  platform  of  granite,  one  foot  six 
inches  thick,  laid  in  hydraulic  cement,  and  upon  it  the 
foundations  of  the  wulls  were  commenced. 


CUSTOM    HOUSE.  15 

The  roof  of  the  building  is  covered  with  wrought  gi-an- 
ite  tile,  and  the  intersection  of  the  cross  is  surmounted  by 
a  dome  terminating  in  a  skylight  twenty-five  feet  in  diam- 
etei-.     The  dome  is  also  covered  with  granite  tile. 

The  cellar,  which  is  ten  feet  six  inches  high  to  the 
crown  of  the  arches,  is  principally  used  for  the  storage  of 
goods,  which  are  conveyed  to  it  through  the  basement 
story. 

The  principal  ingress  to  the  entrance  story  is  through 
the  porticos.  This  story  contams  apartments  and  offices 
for  the  assistant  treasurer,  the  weighers  and  gaugers,  the 
measurers,  inspectors,  markers,  superintendent  of  build- 
ing, &c.  In  the  centre  is  a  large  vestibule,  from  wliich 
two  broad  flights  of  steps  lead  to  the  principal  story,  land- 
ing in  two  smaller  vestibules  therein,  lighted  by  skylights 
in  the  roof;  and  these  vestibules  communicate  with  all  the 
apartments  in  this  story.  The  several  rooms  are  for  the 
collector,  assistant  collector,  naval  officer,  surveyor,  public 
storekeeper,  their  deputies  and  clerks.  The  grand  cross- 
shaped  rotunda,  for  the  general  business  of  the  collector's 

« 

department,  in  the  centre  of  this  story,  is  finished  in  the 
Grecian  Corinthian  order.  It  is  sixty-three  feet  m  its 
greatest  length,  fifty-nine  feet  wide,  and  sixty-two  feet 
high  to  the  skyHght. 

The  ceiling  is  supported  by  twelve  columns  of  mar- 
ble, three  feet  in  diameter  and  twenty-nine  feet  in  height, 


16 


BOSTON    SIGHTS 


with  higlily-wTOUght  capitals ;  the  ceUing  is  ornamented 
in  a  neat  and  chaste  manner,  and  the  skylight  is  filled 
with  stained  glass. 

The  building  was  commenced  in  1837,  and  entir^y 
completed  in  1849.  It  has  cost  about  $1,076,000,  includ- 
ing the  site,  foimdations,  &c. 


Passing  up  State  Street,  we  soon  reach  The  Exchange. 
It  is  a  splendid  building,  fix>nting  on  State  Street.  The 
comer  stone  was  laid  August  2,  1841 ;  the  building  com- 
pleted 1842,  and  cost,  exclusive  of  land,  8175,000.  The 
width  on  State  Street  is  seventy-six  feet,  the  height  seventy 


THE    EXCHANGE. 


17 


feet,  the  deptli  two  liundi-ed  and  fifty  feet,  and  it  covers 
thirteen  thousand  feet  of  kind. 

The  front  is  of  Quincy  granite,  and  has  six  columns, 
each  forty-five  feet  in  height,  and  weighing  fifty-five  tons. 
The  stau-oases  are  of  iron  and  stone,  and  the  entire  build- 
ing is  fii'e-proof.  The  front  is  occupied  by  banks,  insur- 
ance and  other  offices,  and  the  rear  is  a  hotel,  while  at  the 
top  is  a  telegraph  station.  There  are  three  entrances, 
one  on  State,  one  on  Congress,  and  one  on  Lindall  Street. 


The  Merchants'  Exchange  is  up  stairs,  and  is  a 
magnificent  hall,  eighty  feet  by  fifty-eight  feet,  having  its 


18  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

ceiling  supported  by  eighteen  imitation  Sienna  marble 
columns,  with  Corinthian  capitals.  There  is  a  grand 
dome  overhead,  filled  with  stained  glass.  Here  news- 
papers from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  received,  read,  and 
filed.  A  superintendent,  registrar,  news  collector,  boat- 
men, messengers,  &c.,  are  attached  to  the  room,  and  are 
in  attendance  from  seven  o'clock  in  the  morning  until  ten 
at  night.  Vessels  arrivuig  are  immediately  registered,  as 
well  as  shipping  news  telegraphed  from  distant  ports. 
Clearances,  invoices  per  railroad,  ships,  &c.,  are  all  en- 
tered, with  the  name  of  the  consignee,  on  books  kept  for 
the  purpose.  Sales  of  stocks,  cotton,  &c.,  are  also  regis- 
tered. Merchants,  singly,  are  admitted  to  all  the  privi- 
leges of  the  room  for  eight  dollars  a  year ;  firms  of  two 
persons,  ten  dollars,  &c.  These  are  called  subscribers, 
and  have  the  privilege  of  introducing  strangers,  whose 
names  having  been  registered  in  a  book  kept  for  that  pur- 
pose, are  allowed  to  visit  the  room  and  read  the  papers 
during  their  stay  in  the  city.  The  board  of  brokers  have 
their  rooms  in  the  Exchange ;  and  other  portions  of  it  are 
used  for  banking  offices,  brokers'  offices,  railroad  offices,  &c. 
The  architectural  beauty  of  the  building,  and  the  chaste 
but  elaborate  workmanship  of  its  rotunda,  are  alone  worth 
a  visit. 

The  centre  of  the  basement  story  is  occupied  by  the 
Post  Office,  where  there  is  a  general  delivery,  a  box 


THE    OLD    STATE    HOUSE.  19 

delivery,  a  ladies'  delivery,  and  a  newspaper   delivery, 
besides  telegraph  and  bank  offices. 

On  Change  are  anxious  men,  during  banking  hours,  as 
ever  met  to  buy  stocks,  sell  shares,  lend  money,  or  nego- 
tiate loans.  From  the  stone  steps  of  the  Post  Office  to  the 
Old  State  House  the  crowd  extends ;  and  even  a  strange 
eye  may  soon  detect  the  shrewd  curbstone  bi'oker,  balancing 
himself  with  a  tilting  motion  at  the  edge  of  the  pavement, 
or  the  anxious  borrower,  as  he  eagerly  claims  friendship 
with  those  whose  acquaintance  he  will  want  to  disown  a 
few  moments  later ;  while  in  the  centre  a  speckled  cow, 
fatted  pig,  or  evergreen  tree  invites  the  attention  of  those 
not  otherwise  engaged;  while  overlooking  all,  with  a 
grave  and  knowing  look,  stands  the  Old  State  House, 
at  the  head  of  State  Street,  having  one  front  on  Washing- 
ton Street.  It  retains  to  the  present  day  many  of  the 
architectural  peculiarities  of  the  period  when  it  was  built, 
especially  that  part  looking  towards  the  harbor.  On  its 
summit  are  signal  staffs,  where  are  displayed  the  flags  of 
diffisrent  merchants  when  their  ships  are  approaching  the 
city,  and  a  modern  clock  decorates  State  Street  end. 
The  lower  story  is  now  converted  into  stores  and  lawyers' 
and  editors'  offices ;  and  where  the  General  Court  of  the 
Province  of  Massachusetts  used  to  be  hoklen,  gentlemen 
are  suited  with  legal  measures,  or  are  measui'ed  for  panta- 


20 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


loons  —  lawyers  and  tailors  pursuing  their  several  A'oca- 
tions  beneath  the  Old  State  House  roof. 

Fanning  the  old  house  with  their  continuous  fluttering, 
(but  still  depending  on  it  for  support,)  float  the  beauteous 
flags  of  different  daily  papers ;  and  as  they  curl  lazily  up, 
seem  plainly  to  say,  "  We  show  the  condition  of  the  world 


abroad  and  at  home.  Not  a  steamer  arrives  but  we  herald 
the  news."  And  then,  as  the  folds  roll  out  Avith  an  indig- 
nant flap,  they  seem  to  flirt  out  that  the  last  news  fi'om 
Kansas  or  Washington  was  not  to  their  liking ;  then  they 
stop,  and  leave  us  to  search  in  the  papers  they  severally 


THE    OLD    STATK    HOUSE.    '  21 

represent  for  particulars  ;  and  it  is  no  easy  job  to  make  a 
selection,  for  there  is  tlie  Journal,  Atlas,  Bee,  Ledger,  and 
Chronicle  close  at  hand,  and  the  Traveller,  Transcript, 
Advertiser,  Post,  Herald,  and  I  know  not  how  many- 
others,  whose  shadows  do  not  fall  on  the  hundred-year-old 
wmdows  of  the  Old  State  House. 


CHAPTER    III. 

OLD     SOUTH     CHURCH. BIRTHPLACE     OF    FRANKLIN. 

CITY     HALL. COURT     HOUSE.  STONE     CHAPEL. 

CEMETERY. 

The  Old  South  Church  stands  on  Washington 
Street,  not  far  from  the  Old  State  House.  So  much  his- 
torical mterest  is  attached  to  this  time-honored  building 
that  we  must  be  pardoned  if  we  are  rather  minute  in  our 
notice  of  it,  for  which  Ave  are  indebted  to  a  sketch  in 
Gleason's  (now  Ballou's)  Pictorial. 

During  the  first  of  the  seven  years'  war,  a  church  of 
this  then  town  of  Boston  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  that 
externally  appeared  much  as  it  now  does,  internally  pre- 
sented a  strange  scene.  The  sanctuary  was  profanely 
converted  into  a  riding  school  for  Burgoyne's  cavalry. 
The  pulpit  and  the  pews,  all  hallowed  by  devotion,  had 
been  taken  out  to  light  the  fires  of  our  enemies,  the  hbrary 
of  the  good  pastor  being  used  for  kindlings.  Hundreds 
of  loads  of  dirt  and  gravel  were  carted  into  the  church, 
that  it  might  better  answer  the  strange  use  to  which  it  was 
put.     A  box  was  suspended  four  feet  from  the  floor,  over 

(23) 


24  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

which  fierce  horses,  cb'iveu  by  furious  riders,  leaped.  The 
galleries  were  occupied,  not,  as  now,  by  those  who  freely 
heai'd  the  word  of  God,  but  by  spectators  of  the  games 
below,  and  by  those  who  sold  liquors  and  refreshments,  not 
having  a  reverence  for  the  sanctuary,  nor  the  fear  of  the 
Maine  Law  before  their  eyes.  The  Old  South  Church, 
as  every  body  knows,  was  the  centre  of  this  dissipation;  a 
church  that  has  been  intimately  connected  with  the  history 
of  Boston  from  an  early  period.  At  the  time  alluded  to, 
]\L-.  Blackstone's  farm  Avas  converted  into  the  town  of 
Boston,  containing  "  about  two  thousand  dwelling  houses, 
mostly  of  wood,  with  scarce  any  public  buildings,  but 
eight  or  nine  churches,  the  Old  State  House,  and  Faneuil 
Hall."  The  Old  South  Church,  like  tlie  First  Church, 
and  the  first  Baptist,  was  organized  m  Charlestown  by 
seceders  from  the  First  Church,  who  were  disaffected  with 
a  call  extended  to  Rev.  John  Davenport.  The  first  meet- 
ing house  was  erected  on  the  spot  where  the  present  one 
stands,  corner  of  Wasliington  and  IMilk  Streets.  The  site 
was  the  gift  of  Mrs.  Xorton,  widow  of  Rev.  John  Norton, 
who  was  pastor  of  the  First  Church.  The  first  house  was 
erected  soon  after  the  church  was  gathered,  in  1669.  It 
was  built  of  wood,  Avith  a  spire  and  square  pcAvs.  The 
first  pastor  was  Rev.  Thomas  Thatcher,  an  emment  divine, 
a  native  of  Salisbury,  England.  Besides  being  an  emi- 
nent theologian  he  was  a  physician,  and  published  the  first 


OLD    SOUTH    CHDliCH.  25 

medical  tract  that  ever  was  issued  in  Massachusetts.  His 
successors  were  Willard,  the  eminent  divine,  Pemberton, 
the  eloquent  pulpit  orator,  Sewall,  who  was  known  as 
"  good  Dr.  Sewall,"  who  was  pastor  of  the  church  for  fifty 
years,  and  when  his  health  failed,  near  the  close  of  his 
life,  was  carried  into  the  pulpit,  and  instructed  the  people 
from  Sabbath  to  Sabbath ;  Prmce,  the  able  divine  and 
learned  scholar,  Gumming,  Blair,  Bacon,  Hunt,  Eckley, 
Huntington,  the  first  sole  pastor,  the  devoted  Wisner,  the 
gifted  and  short-lived  Stearns,  and  Blagden,  who  now 
ministers  to  this  ancient  church  —  fifteen  in  all. 

The  present  Old  South  Church  is  a  substantial  structure 
of  brick,  of  a  style  of  architecture  that  is  chaste  and  be- 
coming, though  not  uncommon.  It  stands  as  it  has  stood 
for  more  than  a  century  —  it  having  been  erected  in  the 
year  1730.  The  last  sermon  Avas  preached  in  the  old 
house  March  2,  1729.  The  next  day  it  was  taken  down, 
when  it  was  found  to  be  so  much  decayed  that  it  was 
thought  the  congregation,  the  day  before,  had  "  a  very 
gi'acious  preservation."  A  curious  plan  of  the  lower  floor 
of  the  present  house  is  before  us,  under  the  head,  "  Pues 
on  ye  lower  flora  in  ye  Metting  House,"  evidently  di-awn 
soon  after  the  building  was  finished  and  the  pews  sold. 
From  this  plan  it  appears  that  the  house  is  eighty-eight 
feet  by  sixty-one,  and  that  it  is  substantially  now  as  it  was 
at  the  beginning.      Formerly  there  was  a  high  elders'  seat 


26  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

directly  in  front  of  the  })ulpit,  and  a  deacons'  seat  nearly 
as  high.  Several  of  the  best  pews  in  the  house,  accord- 
ing to  the  custom  of  the  time,  were  devoted  to  the  accom- 
modation of  the  aged  —  a  custom  that  has  become  obso- 
lete. In  this  plan  the  names  of  the  pew  holders  are 
given,  embracing  some  of  the  noblest  names  of  the  time, 
such  as  Governor  Belcher,  Franklin,  Bromfield,  Brattle, 
Winslow,  Cotton,  Eliot,  &c.  The  following  church  record 
will  assist  the  reader  m  understanding  the  disposition  of 
the  congi'egation  in  the  new  edifice.  "  At  a  meeting  of 
the  South  Church,  in  their  brick  meeting  house,  August  5, 
1730,  Voted,  That  the  deacons  be  desired  to  procure  some 
suitable  person  to  take  the  oversight  of  the  children  and 
servants  in  the  galleries,  and  take  care  that  good  order  be 
maintamed  in  time  of  divine  worship  ;  and  that  a  suffi- 
cient reward  be  allowed  for  the  encouragement  of  such  a 
person." 

The  Old  South  Church  is  a  noble  structure,  situated 
now  in  the  very  heart  of  the  city,  though,  as  its  name  indi- 
cates, at  the  beginning  at  its  southern  extremity.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  one  of  the  loftiest  spires  in  the  city.  Its  bell 
is  large  and  fine  toned,  and  more  eyes  are  upturned  to  its 
clock  daily,  we  venture  to  say,  than  to  any  other  timekeeper 
in  New  England.  Indeed,  it  is  to  New  England,  as  to  the 
hours,  what  Boston  is  as  to  business.  The  house  is  very 
capacious,  and,  with  its  two  galleries,  Avill  seat,  perhaps, 


OLD    SOUTH    CIIUKCII.  27 

more  than  any  other  church  in  the  city.  The  pulpit  is 
very  high  for  these  times,  and  is  overshadowed  by  a  sound- 
ing board  that  mtikes  httle  cliildren  fear  for  the  head  of 
the  minister-  This  pulpit  is  the  second  in  the  present 
house,  the  first  one  being  what  was  styled  a  "  tub  "  pulpit. 
The  pews,  though  built  not  after  the  modern  style,  are  all 
the  more  comfortable ;  and  it  would  seem  that  the  owners 
never  thought  of  the  fact  that  the  land  beneath  them  was 
worth  tlnrty  dollars  the  square  foot. 

Considerable  interest  clusters  around  the  Old  South 
Church,  or  "  Tlici  Sanctuary  of  Freedom,"  as  it  has  been 
termed,  from  tie  patriotic  assemblages  that  were  gathered 
within  its  walk  just  previous  to  the  outbreak  of  the  revo- 
lution. In  this  church  Franklin  worshipped  and  was  bap- 
tized. Here  that  prince  of  preachers,  Whitefield,  lifted 
up  his  voice  like  a  trumpet.  In  this  temple  "  our  enemies 
in  war  and  our  friends  in  peace  "  did  that  which  for  a  mo- 
ment saddens  our  interest.  Within  these  walls  the  elec- 
tion sermons  have  been  delivered  annually  before  "  the 
powers  that  be,"  and  multitudes  have  been  educated  for 
the  church  triumphant  in  heaven.  To  the  Bostonian,  the 
very  name  of  the  "  Old  South  "  brings  back  childish  recol- 
lections and  happy  early  associations.  Before  the  city  had 
so  grown  as  to  extend  almost  out  of  tow7i,  this  was  a  sort 
of  landmark  in  the  designating  of  distances ;  any  given 
locality  was  about  so  far  from  the  "  Old   South,"  this  or 


28  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

that  side  of  the  "  Old  South,"  &c.  Indeed,  the  cliurch  is 
not  only  a  sort  of  landmark  as  regards  the  bearings  in  our 
harbor,  as  considered  by  the  pilots,  but  is  also  a  point  of 
departure,  so  to  speak,  on  the  land  itself.  There  are  few 
notable  localities  in  the  city  of  notions  better  kuo^^^l  than 
is  this  venerable  and  revered  pile,  and  the  site  it  occupies 
—  a  silent  remembrancer  of  scenes  and  events  associated 
with  all  that  is  dear  to  Americans. 

There  is  a  library  connected  with  this  church,  that  was 
bequeathed  by  Rev.  Thomas  Prince.  It  is  a  precious 
collection,  containing  many  standard  works  in  church  his- 
tory, biblical  literature,  valuable  pamphlets,  and  manu- 
scripts. For  nearly  one  hundred  years  this  has  been  the 
public  library  of  that  church,  and  accessible  to  any  per- 
son desirous  of  using  it  for  literaiy  purposes. 

The  Birthplace  of  Franklin  was  where  the  block 
of  stores  now  stands  that  bear  the  inscription.  On  that 
spot,  under  the  very  shadow  of  the  Old  South's  tall  spire, 
the  printer,  the  legislator,  the  philosopher,  the  immortal 
Franklin,  was  born. 

Passing  from  "Wasliington  to  Tremont  Street,  the  visitor 
will  perceive  on  his  right  hand  a  large  gray  stone  building, 
in  front  of  which  are  grounds  tastefully  laid  out  with  trees 
and  beds  of  flowers,  and  enclosed  by  an  iron  fence.  This 
is  the  City  Hall,  It  stands  between  Comt  Square  and 
School  Street,  fronting  on  the  latter.     Here  meetings  of 


NKW    COUKT    IIOUSK. 


29 


the  Council  are  held ;  and  here  may  be  found  the  offices 
of  the  Chief-of-police  and  many  of  the  civic  functionaries. 


The  Board  of  aldermen  meet  in  the  main  room  every 
Monday  afternoon,  and  the  sittings  of  the  common  council 
are  held  on  Thursday  evenings. 

Near  the  City  Hall,  and  in  its  rear,  is  the  New  Court 
House.  It  stands  in  Court  Square,  and  has  a  sedate, 
sober  appearance,  being  destitute  of  ornament  of  any  kind. 
Its  form  is  that  of  a  parallelogram,  one  hundred  and 
seventy-six  feet  in  length  by  fifty-four  feet  in  breadth.  It 
is  fifty -seven  feet  in  height,  and  consists  of  a  basement  and 
5* 


30  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

three  stories.  At  each  end  is  a  fine  portico  of  the  Doric 
order,  supported  by  lour  columns  of  fluted  granite.  There 
is  not  much  to  attract  attention  within,  it  being  merely 
plain  and  substantial.  An  entrance  hall  traverses  the 
entire  length  of  the  buildhig,  communicating  with  the  por- 
ticos and  side  doors.  Stone  stahcases,  branching  ofi"  from 
this  corridor,  lead  to  the  various  court  rooms.  On  the  first 
floor  are  the  Justices'  Courts,  Court  of  Lisolvency,  and  the 
offices  of  the  clerks  of  the  different  courts. 

The  Supreme  Judicial  Court  sits  for  the  hearing  of 
legal  arguments  on  the  first  Tuesday  of  March,  and  the 
term  for  the  trial  of  jury  causes  commences  on  the  seventh 
Tuesday  next  after  the  fourth  Tuesday  of  September. 
The  Common  Pleas  Court  for  the  county  of  Suffolk  is 
held  in  the  court  room  in  the  third  story  on  the  first  Tues- 
day of  January,  April,  July,  and  October ;  and  the  Mu- 
nicipal Court,  of  which  the  justices  of  the  Common  Pleas 
are  ex  officio  judges,  is  held  in  the  room  appropriated  for 
that  purpose  on  the  first  Monday  of  every  month.  The 
Police  Court  is  busied  every  day  in  the  trial  of  criminal 
offenders,  and  also  sits  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  as 
a  Justices'  Court  for  determining  civil  causes  under  twenty 
dollars.  The  Social  Law  Library  room,  on  the  second 
floor,  is  a  comfortable  and  Avell-hghted  apartment,  and 
contains  a  good  selection  of  juridical  text  books,  including 


CEMETERY.  31 

vpxiters   in  general  law,  and  the  English  and  American 
Reports. 

In  the  basement  are  cells  for  the  temporary  accommo- 
dation of  prisoners  ;  and  at  the  side  door  opposite  the 
the  Raih-oad  Exchange  may  be  seen  every  morning,  about 
nine  o'clock,  the  jail  van  discharging  its  load  of  prisoners 
for  examination.  To  one  fond  of  seeing  hmnan  nature  in 
all  its  phases,  an  hour  in  the  Pohce  Comt  any  morning 
will  not  be  tin-own  away. 

Nearly  opposite  the  City  Hall  stands  Horticultural 
Hall,  a  neat  stone  edifice ;  up  stairs  is  the  hall,  which  is 
lofty,  large,  and  beautiful.  It  is  used  for  horticultural, 
panoramic,  and  other  exhibitions. 

Chapman  Hall  is  directly  in  the  rear,  with  an  en- 
trance on  Chapman  Place.  These  rooms  also  are  light 
and  airy.  Stone  Chapel  stands  at  the  corner  of  School 
and  Tremont  Streets.  It  was  built  in  1750,  and  is  a  plain, 
substantial  structure.  The  corner  stone  was  laid  by  Gov- 
ernor Shirley.  The  Cemetery  adjoining  (from  the  pre- 
cious dust  it  holds)  should  be  forever  revered  by  native 
and  stranger.  Johnson,  the  "  Father  of  Boston,"  as  he 
has  been  termed,  according  to  his  wish  was  buried  here ; 
and  the  people  evinced  their  affection  for  him  by  ordering 
their  bodies  to  be  buried  near  him ;  and  this  was  the  origin 
of  the  first  burying-place  in  Boston. 

The  Lady  Arabella,  his  wife,  was  the  pride  and  love 


32  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

of  the  colony;  and  liistorians  tell  us  that  though  there 
were  several  other  women  of  distinction  who  encountered 
the  fatigues  and  dangers  of  those  days  with  laudable  reso- 
lution, the  devotedness  of  this  lady  —  lady  in  deed  as  well 
as  name  —  was  conspicuous  above  all. 

The  sentiments  of  her  heart  to  him  are  described  in  the 
following  language :  "  Wliithersoever  your  fatall  destine 
shall  dryve  you,  eyther  by  the  fui'ious  waves  of  the  gi'eat 
ocean,  or  by  the  many-folde  and  horrible  dangers  of  the 
lande,  I  wyl  surely  not  leave  your  company.  There  can 
no  peryll  chaunce  to  me  so  terrible,  nor  any  kinde  of 
death  so  cruell,  that  shall  not  be  much  easier  for  me  to 
abyde  than  to  live  so  farre  separate  from  you." 

She  came  to  the  "wilderness,  illumined  it  by  her  love, 
her  piety,  her  charities  and  faith,  and  died  in  the  then 
mere  village  of  Salem.  Not  one  of  those  who  had  known 
her  but  wept  bitterly  at  the  event.  It  was  as  if  all  the 
flowers  of  the  garden  should  hang  their  heads  at  the  blast- 
ing of  the  rose.  May  her  memory  distil  sweets  upon  the 
hearts  of  wives  Hke  her 


"  And  from  her  fair  and  unpolluted  flesh 
May  violets  spring,"  forever. 


Many  are  the  good   and  great  whose  remains  repose 


CEMETERY. 


33 


here ;  but  no  character  of  those  days  has  come  down  to  us 
with  brighter  memories  than  that  of  Governor  John  Win- 
throp,  whose  remains  also  repose  in  the  Chapel  Burial 
Ground,  in  the  family  tomb,  on  the  north  side. 


WINSLOW  CHAIR,  AT  MASS.  HISTOEICAL  SOCIETY. 


CHAPTER    IV. 

THE    BOSTON    MUSEUM. HISTORICAL    SOCIETY, 

Perhaps  of  all  the  places  of  public  amusement  in  the 
good  city  of  Boston,  not  one  is  so  generally  popular  as  this. 
Nor  is  its  great  success  undeserved ;  fur  it  has  ever  been 


?">. 


the  aim  of  its  enterprising  proprietor,  Hon.  Moses  Kim- 
ball, while  providing  every  possible  novelty  for  the  gratifi- 
cation of  the  masses,  to  carefully  exclude  every  thing  that 


36  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

could  be  in  the  slightest  degree  objectionable.  Hence  the 
Museum  has  become  the  great  family  resort,  as  well  as 
the  visitors'  choicest  treat. 

First,  for  its  locaUty.  On  Tremont  Street,  between 
Court  and  School  Streets,  it  stands,  a  spacious  and  superb 
building,  its  front  adorned  by  elegant  balconies  and  rows 
of  ground  glass  globes,  like  enormous  pearls,  which  at 
night  are  luminous  with  gas.  Tlu'ce  tiers  of  elegantly 
arched  windows  admit  light  into  the  building,  and  we 
reach  the  interior  by  a  bold  flight  of  stall's. 

At  the  summit  of  these  stairs  is  an  elegant  ticket  and 
treasurer's  office,  and  adjoining  it  the  entrance  to  the 
Grand  Hall  of  Cabinets,  which  is  surrounded  by  a 
gallery,  and  whose  ceiling  is  supported  by  noble  Corin- 
thian pillars.  Around  the  gallery  front  are  ai-ranged  por- 
traits of  celebrated  Americans.  On  the  floor  of  the  hall 
are  statuary  and  superb  works  of  art,  and,  arranged  in 
glass  cases,  curiosities  from  all  parts  of  the  known  world. 
The  galleries,  reached  by  a  grand  staircase,  are  filled  with 
the  rich  and  rare  products  of  many  a  clime ;  not  an  inch 
of  space  is  thrown  away.  Ascending  still  higher,  we  find 
a  superb  collection  of  wax  figures,  singly  and  in  groups  ; 
and  surmountin'*  all  is  an  observatory,  whence  splendid 
panoramic  views  of  the  city,  the  harbor,  and  its  islands 
may  be  obtained. 

The  Museum  Theatre  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully 


BOSTON    MUSEU.M. 


37 


decorated,  best  constructed,  and  well  managed  theatres  in 
tli(^  United  States.     The  visitor  there  has  no  rowdyism  to 
4 


38  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

fear,  and  notliing  ever  occurs,  citlier  in  the  audience  por- 
tion or  on  the  stage,  to  ofiend  the  most  fastidious.  As 
good  order  is  maintained  in  JVlr.  Kimball's  theatre  as  in 
any  drawing  room  in  the  land.  The  company,  too,  is 
always  first  rate.  Some  of  our  best  actors  have  been 
trained  on  the  INIuseum  boards.  But  besides  having  a 
stock  company  w^hich  cannot  be  surpassed,  "  stars  "  of  the 
first  theatrical  magnitude  are  often  engaged ;  and  brilhant 
spectacles,  with  all  the  accessories  of  superb  scener}'^,  deli- 
cious music,  gorgeous  costumes,  banners,  and  other  appro- 
priate appointments,  are  produced  several  times  in  each 
season,  in  all  the  magnificence  that  money  and  skill  can 
accomplish,  and  are  a  marked  feature  of  the  place,  that 
cannot  easily  be  surpassed.  Few  persons  who  visit  Bos- 
ton ever  think  of  quitting  it  without  paying  the  Museum 
a  visit,  for  it  contains  amusement  and  information  for  all. 

The  Museum  building  alone  cost  nearly  a  quai'ter  of  a 
million  of  dollars,  and  covers  twenty  thousand  feet  of 
land,  the  whole  of  which,  with  its  numerous  cabinets,  is 
crowded  with  every  variety  of  birds,  quadrupeds,  fish, 
reptiles^  insects,  shells,  minerals,  fossils,  &c.  Then  there 
is  the  Feejee  Mermaid,  alluded  to  by  Bai-num,  in  his 


BOSTON    MUSICUir. 


39 


Autobiography,  together  with  more  than  one  thousand 
costly  paintings,  among  which  is  Sully's  great  picture  of 
"Washington  crossing  the  Delaware,  portraits  by  Copley, 
West,  Stuart,  &c.  In  short  there  are  to  be  seen  nearly 
five  hundi'ed  thousand  articles  of  every  conceivable  rare 
and  curious  thing  of  nature  and  art  in  the  Museum,  and 
all  for  the  marvellously  small  sum  of  twenty-five  cents. 
The  theatre  is  open  every  evening,  and  on  Wednesday  and 
Saturday  afternoons. 


The  rooms  of  the  Massachusetts   Historical   So- 
ciety are  next  the  Museum,  in   a   granite  building   on 


40  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

Tremont  Street.  The  library  of  the  society  contains 
about  eiglit  thousand  volumes,  with  maps,  charts,  and 
four  hundred  and  fifty  volumes  of  manuscripts.  Among 
the  treasures  are  manuscripts  of  the  historian  Hub- 
bard, of  the  first  Governor  "Winthrop,  eleven  volumes 
of  Govei'nor  Hutchinson,  of  Governor  Jonathan  Trum- 
bull, of  Connecticut,  twenty-three  volumes,  and  the  manu- 
script of  Washington's  address  to  the  officers  of  the 
American  army.  There  is  also  a  copy  of  Eliot's  Indian 
Bible.  The  portraits  of  persons,  mostly  New  England 
worthies,  adorn  the  room ;  two  of  special  value  are,  Rev. 
Increase  Mather  and  Rev.  John  Wilson.  These  rooms 
contain  many  relics  of  the  past ;  among  these  are  Philip's 
samp  pan,  an  article  of  Indian  antiquity  that  perhaps 
may  have  been  used  by  Massasoit  himself  before  it  be- 
came the  property  of  his  youngest  son,  the  renowned 
sachem  of  Pokanoket ;  and  here  also  is  Captain  Church's 
sword,  with  which  the  chief  was  slain.  The  Carver 
sword,  a  worthy  memento  of  a  pilgrim,  speaks  louder 
than  words  of  the  dangers  our  forefathers  incurred  be- 
fore a  city's  smoke  rose  from  the  three  hills  of  Shaw- 
mut ;  and  Wmslow's  chair,  that  tradition  says  "  was  made 
in  London  in  1614,  and  brought  over  in  the  Mayflower 
by  Edward  Winslow,"  now,  after  many  years  of  hai'd 
service,  is  treasured  as  a  valuable  heirloom. 


CHAPTER    V. 

BOSTON   ATHEN^UM. CLUB    HOUSE. COCHITCATE 

HALL. 


The  magnificent  building  for  the  use  of  the  Boston 
Athen^um  is  situated  on  Beacon  Sti-eet,  near  tJie  State 
House.     It  is  of  Patterson  freestone,  and  in  the  Palladian 

4*  (41) 


42  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

Style  of  architecture.  It  is  one  hundred  and  fourteen  feet 
in  length,  of  irregular  breadth,  sixty  feet  in  height,  and 
stands  ten  feet  back  from  the  street,  the  ground  space  in 
front  being  surrounded  by  a  balustrade  with  stone  coping. 
The  main  entrance  opens  into  a  pillared  and  panelled 
rotunda,  from  wliich  fine  iron  staircases  conduct  above. 

The  Sculpture  Gallery  is  in  the  first  story,  and  is 
eighty  feet  in  length.  Its  entrance  is  immediately  oppo- 
site the  front  door.  Here  is  to  be  found  a  fine  collection 
of  works  of  art  in  mai'ble,  and  casts  in  plaster.  Among 
them  are,  The  Head  of  Satan,  by  Horatio  Greenough; 
Little  Nell,  by  Ball  Hughes  ;  Orpheus,  by  T.  G.  Craw- 
ford; the  ShipwTccked  Mother  and  Child,  by  E.  A. 
Brackett ;  casts  of  Day  and  Night,  by  JMichael  An- 
gelo ;  the  original  model  of  the  statue  of  the  Dying 
Indian,  by  P.  Stephenson,  and  the  First  Whisper  of 
Love,  by  W.  C.  Marshall,  will  not  fail  to  attract  the 
attention  and  win  the  admiration  of  all  lovers  of  art. 
Five  marble  bass  reliefs  from  Nineveh  are  deposited  here. 
Apart  from  the  value  which  attaches  to  these  remains, 
considered  simply  as  antiquities,  they  possess  a  far  higher 
value  on  account  of  the  remarkable  confirmations  which 
the  inscriptions  afford  of  the  truth  of  Scriptm'e  history. 
These  in  the  Sculpture  Gallery  are  of  the  same  kind  as 
those  deposited  in  the  British  Museum,  and  described  in 
Layard's  works. 


BOSTON    ATHEN^UM.  43 

The  Reading  Rooms  are  on  the  right  of  the  vestibule. 
On  the  left  is  the  Trustees'  Room.  Near  the  foot  of  the 
staircase  stands  Ball  Hughes's  statue  of  Bowditch,  and  a 
very  fine  one  of  Webster,  by  Powers. 

The  Library  occupies  the  second  story,  which  is  divided 
into  three  rooms,  two  in  front,  and  one  large  hall  (one  hun- 
dred and  nine  feet  by  forty)  in  the  rear.  This  hall  is 
beautifully  finished  in  the  ItaUan  style.  The  shelving  is 
carried  to  the  height  of  eighteen  or  twenty  feet,  and  the 
upper  shelves  are  made  accessible  by  means  of  a  light 
iron  gallery  reached  by  five  spiral  staircases.  Besides 
sixty-seven  thousand  bound  volumes,  this  library  pos- 
sesses twenty  thousand  or  more  of  unbound  pamphlets, 
between  four  and  five  hundred  volumes  of  engravings, 
and  the  most  valuable  collection  of  coins  in  this  part  of 
the  country.  It  also  contains  part  of  the  library  of  Wash- 
ington —  in  all  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  bound  vol- 
umes. The  library  is  hardly  surpassed,  either  in  size  or 
in  value,  by  any  other  in  the  country ;  and  its  regulations 
are  framed  with  the  design  that  it  shall  answer  the  high- 
est purposes  of  a  public  library.  Strangers  not  residing 
within  twenty  miles  of  Boston  can  easily  obtain  admittance. 

Picture  Gallery.  —  The  third  story  contains  four 
rooms  that  are  appropriated  to  the  exhibition  of  paint- 
ings, and  of  these  there  is  an  admirable  collection.  A 
numbered  catalogue  may  be  obtained  at  the  door.     Many 


44  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

of  the  paintings  belong  to  private  individuals,  and  are 
liable  to  removal ;  so  we  shall  avoid  mention  of  them,  and 
briefly  touch  on  a  few  belonging  to  the  Athena^iun.  Here 
are  the  portraits  of  Washington  and  of  Lady  Washing- 
ton, by  Stuart ;  the  Sortie  of  Gibraltar,  by  Trumbull ; 
Judith  with  the  Head  of  Holofernes ;  Count  of  Wurtem- 
berg  lamenting  his  Child,  by  Ary  Schceffer ;  St.  Michael 
chaining  Satan,  after  Guido ;  Flaying  of  Marsayas,  by 
Luca  Giordano ;  Priam  receiying  the  Dead  Body  of  Hec- 
tor, by  Trumbull.  In  conclusion,  we  cannot  help  mention- 
ing Dante  and  Beatrice,  by  Ary  Schceffer,  and  the  Course 
of  Empire,  by  Cole.  The  gallery  is  well  worthy  of  fre- 
quent visits,  and  will  doubtless  do  much  to  promote  the 
progress  of  art  in  Boston. 

Admittance  twenty-five  cents,  the  Sculpture  Gallery 
included. 

Returning  towards  Washington  Street,  a  few  steps 
bring  us  to  the  Club  House,  corner  of  Beacon  and 
Park  Streets,  a  mansion  interesting  from  the  fact  that  it 
was  fitted  up  for  the  accommodation  of  General  Lafayette 
and  his  suite,  when  the  illustrious  friend  of  Washington 
was  the  guest  of  the  city.  At  the  period  of  the  revolu- 
tion the  almshouse  stood  upon  this  site,  extending  on 
Beacon  Street  beyond  the  westerly  boundary  of  the  Athe- 
naeum estate.  Next  to  it,  on  Park  Street,  was  the  work- 
house ;  then  came  the  town  pound ;  on  the  site  of  Park 


CLUB    HOUSE. 


45 


Street  Church  stood  the  granary,  whence  the  name  of  the 
adjacent  burying  ground.  In  the  enclosure  of  the  work- 
house yard,  we  beUeve,  the  bodies  of  the  British  soldiers 
killed  at  Bunker  Hill  were  laid  out,  in  the  order  of  theu' 
regiments  and  companies,  previous  to  interment. 

The  old  almshouse  was  pulled  down  iu  the  year  1800, 
and  in  the  early  part  of  the  century  the  large  building 


f^ 


shown  in  the  engraving  was  erected  for  and  occupied  by 
Jonathan  Amory.  Many  a  splendid  ball  and  party  have 
been  given  in  that  aristocratic  mansion;  many  a  belle 
there  devastated  the  hearts  of  young  Bostonians  —  many 


46  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

of  whom,  victors  and  vanquished,  have  long  since  passed 
away  from  this  earthly  stage.  For  many  years  the  build- 
ing has  been  occupied  as  a  club  house. 

CocHiTUATE  Hall  is  not  remarkable  for  its  size,  and, 
although  well  lighted,  is  difficult  of  access. 


CHAPTER    VI, 


TUEMONT  TEMPLE. 3IEIONAON. PARK  STREET  CHrRCH. 

GRANARY    CEMETERY. NEW    MUSIC    HALL. MA- 
SONIC   TEMPLE. 


This  spacious  edifice  stands  opposite  the  Tremont 
House,  Tremont  Street.  Of  a  ricli  and  warm  brown  tint, 
j)roduced  by  a  coating  of  mastic,  it  presents  a  peculiarly 

(47) 


48  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

subs-tantial  and  elegant  frontage.  It  is  seventy-five  feet  in 
height,  and,  with  the  exception  of  ten  feet  by  sixty-eight, 
which  is  left  open  on  the  north  side  for  hght,  the  building 
covers  an  area  of  thirteen  thousand  feet. 

Passing  thi'ough  the  gi'eat  central  doorway,  we  find  our- 
selves in  the  spacious  entrance  hall.  On  the  first  floor  we 
observe  on  our  right  and  left  hand  two  ticket  offices,  and 
a  broad  flight  of  stairs  also  on  either  hand,  each  of  which 
at  their  summit  terminates  in  a  landing,  from  whence  to 
right  and  left  diverge  two  flights  of  similar  staircases,  one 
landing  you  in  the  centre  of  the  main  hall,  and  the  other 
to  the  rear  part  and  the  gallery. 

The  Main  Hall  is  a  magnificent  apartment.  The 
utter  absence  of  gilding  and  coloring  on  its  walls  renders 
it  far  more  imposing  and  grand  in  appearance  than  if  it 
had  been  elaborately  ornamented  with  auriferous  and 
chromatic  splendors.  It  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-four 
feet  long,  seventy-two  feet  wide,  and  fifty  feet  high. 
Around  the  sides  of  it  runs  a  gallery  supported  on  trusses, 
so  that  no  pillars  intervene  between  the  spectators  and  the 
platform,  to  obstruct  the  view.  The  front  of  this  gallery 
is  balustraded,  and  by  this  means  a  very  neat  and  uniform 
effect  is  secured.  The  side  galleries  project  over  the  seats 
below  about  seven  feet.  They  are  fitted  with  rows  of 
nicely-cushioned  and  comfortable  seats,  and  are  not  so 
high  as  to  render  the  ascent  to  them  wearisome  in  the 


TREMONT    TEMPLE.  49 

least  degree.  The  front  gallery,  though  it  projects  into 
the  hall  only  ten  feet,  extends  back  far  enough  to  give  it 
more  than  three  times  that  depth. 

Directly  opposite  this  gallery  is  the  platform,  with  its 
gracefully-panelled,  semicircular  front.  This  platform, 
covered  with  a  neat  oil  cloth,  communicates  with  the  side 
galleries  by  a  few  steps,  for  the  convenience  of  large 
choirs.  There  are  also  several  avenues  of  communication 
from  the  platform  to  the  apartments,  dressing  rooms,  &c., 
behind,  which  are  exceedingly  convenient,  and  are  far 
superior  to  the  places  of  exit  and  entrance  from  and  to 
any  other  place  of  the  kind  that  we  have  ever  seen. 

From  the  front  of  the  platform  the  floor  of  the  hall 
gradually  rises  so  as  to  afford  every  person  in  the  hall  a 
full  and  unobstructed  view  of  the  speakers  or  vocalists,  as 
the  case  may  be.  The  seats  in  the  galleries  rise  in  like 
manner.  The  seats  on  the  hall  floor  are  admirably 
arranged  in  a  semicircular  form  from  the  front  of  the 
platform,  so  that  every  face  is  directed  towards  t^e 
speaker  or  singer.  They  are  each  one  numbered,  have 
iron  ends,  are  capped  with  mahogany,  and  are  completely 
cushioned  with  a  drab-colored  material.  Each  slip  is 
capable  of  containing  ten  or  twelve  persons,  with  an  aisle 
at  each  extremity,  and  open  from  ehd  to  end. 

The  side  Avails  of  the  hall  are  very  beautifully  orna- 
mented in  panels,  arched  and  decorated  with  circular 
5 


50  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

ornaments,  which  would  be  difficult  properly  to  describe 
without  the  aid  of  accompanying  drawings ;  but  as  views 
of  the  interior  of  the  Temple  will  soon  be  common  enough, 
the  omission  here  will  be  of  little  consequence.  As  we 
intimated,  there  is  no  fancy  coloring;  it  is  "a  decorated 
and  relieved  surface  of  dead  white,  and  the  effect,  lighted 
as  it  is  from  above  by  large  panes  of  rough  plate  glass,  is 
beautifully  chaste.  The  only  color  observable  in  the  hall 
is  the  purple  screen  behind  the  diamond  open  work  at  the 
back  of  the  platform,  and  which  forms  a  screen  in  front 
of  the  organ. 

The  ceiling  is  very  finely  designed  in  squares,  at  the 
intersections  of  which  are  twenty-eight  gas  burners,  with 
strong  reflectors,  and  a  chandelier  over  the  orchestra, 
shedding  a  mellow  but  ample  light  over  the  hall.  By 
this  arrangement  the  air  heated  by  innumerable  jets  of 
gas  is  got  rid  of,  and  the  lights  themselves  act  as  most 
efficient  ventilators.  The  eyes  are  likewise  protected 
from  glare ;  and  should  an  escape  of  gas  take  place,  from 
its  levity  it  passes  up  through  shafts  to  the  outside,  and 
does  not  contaminate  the  atmosphere  below.  Under  the 
galleries  are  common  burners.  There  are  for  day  illumi- 
nation twelve  immense  plates  of  glass,  ten  feet  long  by 
four  feet  wide,  placed  in  the  ceiling,  in  the  spring  of  the 
arch,  and  open  directly  to  the  outer  light,  and  by  sixtee'i) 
smaller  ones  under  the  cralleries. 


TEEMONT    TEMPLE.  51 

The  whole  of  the  flooring  of  the  ha,ll,  m  the  galleries, 
the  bodj  of  it,  and  of  the  platform,  consists  of  two  lasers 
of  boards,  Avith  the  interstices  between  them  filled  by  a 
thick  bed  of  mortar.  The  advantages  of  this  in  an  acous- 
tical point  of  view  must  be  obvious  to  all.  Another  ad- 
vantage is,  that  the  applause  made  by  the  audience  in  this 
great  hall  does  not  disturb  the  people  who  may  at  the 
same  time  be  holding  a  meeting  in  the  other  hall  below  — 
a  very  important  consideration. 

There  are  eight  flights  of  stairs  leading  from  the  floors 
of  the  main  hall,  and  four  from  the  galleries,  the  aggre- 
gate width  of  which  is  over  fifty  feet. 

The  Boston  Young  Men's  Christian  Association  occupy 
several  beautiful  rooms  up  one  flight  of  stairs,  which  are 
admirably  adapted  for  their  present  uses  and  occupants, 
and  are  rented  by  the  Association  for  twelve  hundred  dol- 
lars per  annum,  though  it  is  estimated  that  they  are  worth 
at  least  fifteen  hundred  dollars  ;  but  the  Temple  is  owned 
by  a  church  who  were  very  desirous  that  a  rehgious  asso- 
ciation should  occupy  them.  The  great  organ,  built  by 
the  Messrs.  Hook,  is  one  of  the  finest  instruments  ever 
constructed  in  this  country.  Its  bellows  is  worked  by 
steam. 

The  Tremont  Temple,  besides  the  great  hall,  contains  a 
lesser  one,  called  The  Meionaon,  the  main  entrance  to 
which  is  through  the  northerly  passage  way,  opposite  the 


52  •  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

doors  of  the  Tremont  House  ;  this  avenue  is  about  seven 
feet  wide.  The  southerly  passage  way  serves  as  an  outlet 
fi'om  this  lesser  temple. 

Perhaps  the  reader,  who  may  not  have  been  initiated 
into  the  mysteries  of  Greek  literature,  may  thank  us  for 
a  definition  of  this  strange-looking  word,  "  Meionaon."  It 
is  so  called  from  two  Greek  words  —  melon,  signifying 
less,  smaller,  and  naon,  temple  —  Lesser  Temple.  It  is 
pronounced  ]\Ii-o-na-on.  This  lesser  temple  is  situated 
back  from  the  street,  and  directly  under  the  great  hall. 
It  is  seventy-two  feet  long  by  fifty-two  feet  wide,  and 
about  twenty-five  and  a  half  feet  high.  Not  so  elaborately 
adorned  as  its  neighbor  overhead,  this  hall  is  remarkably 
chastely  and  beautifully  fitted  up,  and  within  its  walls  the 
religious  society  of  Tremont  Street  Baptist  Church  wor- 
ship. Its  walls  are  relieved  by  pilasters  supporting  arches. 
The  seats  are  similarly  arranged  to  those  in  the  hall  above, 
and  are  equally  comfortable  and  commodious  in  all  respects. 
At  one  end  is  a  platform,  on  which,  on  Sabbath  days,  stands 
a  beautiful  little  pulpit,  of  dark  walnut,  and  cushioned  with 
crimson  velvet.  At  the  other  extremity  of  the  hall  is  a 
gallery  for  a  choir ;  back  of  it  stands  a  neat  little  organ. 
The  place  is  beautifully  adapted  for  sound,  and  competent 
judges  say  from  their  own  experience  that  it  is  a  remarka- 
bly easy  place  to  speak  in.  From  the  hall  to  the  outer 
door  the  way  is  through  a  broad  passage  way  covered  with 


PARK    STREET   CHURCH.  53 

Manilla  matting  let  into  the  floor,  so  that  little  dirt  can  be 
brought  in  from  the  street ;  and  as  the  doors  swing  on 
noiseless  hinges,  no  interruption  from  scuffling  of  feet  or 
slamraings  can  ever  occur. 

The  Cupola.  —  In  making  our  way  thither  we  travel 
over  the  ceiling  of  the  great  hall,  dropping  our  heads  as 
we  pass  beneath  roof  and  rafter,  to  save  our  hat  and  skull, 
and  beholding  beneath  our  feet  a  great  network  of  gas- 
piping  connected  with  the  burners  of  the  hall  under  us. 
In  long  rows  are*  square  ventilators,  which  discharge  their 
streams  of  vitiated  air  on  the  outside. 

The  cupola  forms  a  spacious  observatory,  glazed  all 
round,  and  from  every  wdndow  is  obtained  a  charming 
view,  the  whole  forming  one  of  the  most  superb  pano- 
ramas that  we  ever  witnessed.  From  this  elevated  spot 
may  be  seen  the  adjacent  villages  and  towns,  the  harbor 
and  its  islands,  the  city  institutions,  churches,  houses,  and 
shipping.  In  short,  the  whole  city  and  vicinity  lies  at  our 
feet. 

Park  Street  Church  is  situated  at  the  corner  of 
Tremont  and  Park  Streets.  The  spire  is  remarkably 
beautiful,  and  the  interior  very  spacious  and  striking. 
Close  by  lies  Granary  Burying  Ground  —  a  spot  hal- 
lowed by  the  remains  of  many  good,  and  brave,  and  beau- 
tiful as  such  can  be.  Here  a  mounument  has  been  laid 
over  the  graves  of  Dr.  Frankhn's  parents.  It  is  an  obelisk 
5* 


54  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

twenty-five  feet  high,  formed  of  seven  blocks  of  Quincy 
granite,  each  weighing  about  six  tons ;  and  the  name  of 
"  Frankhn "  can  be  easily  read  from  the  street.  The 
stranger  often  stops  to  gaze  at  the  squirrels  racing  among 


those  gray  old  tombstones,  or  to  read  the  time-worn  inscrip- 
tions of  the  mourned  ones'  virtues  —  virtues  perhaps  not 
visible  during  life,  but  "  known  and  read  of  all  men  "  when 
they  have  passed  away. 

Nearly  across  the  street  from  here  is 

The  New  Music  Hall.  —  Until  within  the  last  few 
years,  although  a  musical  people,  the  city  Avas  sadly  in 


NEW    MUSIC    HALL.  00 

want  of  a  fitting  place  for  concerts,  &c.  Now,  however, 
we  have  a  Music  Hall  of  the  first  class,  which  we  can 
refer  to  with  pride  as  an  ornament  to  our  metropolis,  and 
an  index  of  the  taste  and  liberality  of  Boston. 

There  has  been  no  attempt  at  display  on  the  exterior 
of  the  building,  it  being  deemed  important  to  reserve,  as 
far  as  practicable,  for  the  interior  the  means  contributed 
for  the  enterprise. 

The  hall  is  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  long,  seventy- 
eight  feet  wide,  and  sixty-five  feet  high,  the  proportion  of 
length  to  width  being  as  five  to  three,  and  of  length  to 
height  as  two  to  one.  Two  balconies  extend  round  three 
sides  of  the  hall. 

The  ceiling,  which  is  forty  feet  above  the  floor  of  the 
upper  balcony,  is  in  general  section  flat,  and  connected 
with  the  wall  by  a  large  cove,  in  which  are  seventeen 
semicircular  windows,  that  light  the  hall  by  day.  A  row 
of  gas  jets,  projecting  from  the  edge  of  the  cornice,  just 
below  these  windows,  light  the  hall  by  night. 

The  floor  is  arranged  with  seats  which  will  accommo- 
date upwards  of  fifteen  hundred  persons,  and  there  is  suffi- 
cient room  in  the  balconies  for  upwards  of  one  thousand 
more. 

The  orchestral  platform  is  raised  five  feet  above  the 
floor  of  the  hall,  and  rises  by  a  few  steps  to  the  organ. 
From  each  side  of  the  orchestra  to  the  floor  of  the  lower 


66  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

balcony  is  a  series  of  raised  platforms  for  choristers,  or 
for  the  audience,  as  may  be  requu-ed.  The  Avhole  orches- 
tra will  accommodate  upwards  of  four  hundred  persons. 

The  whole  has  been  constructed  with  special  reference 
to  the  science  of  acoustics  —  a  consideration  of  the  utmost 
importance  in  a  building  intended  for  a  music  hall.  The 
architect,  George  Snell,  Esq.,  has  endeavored  to  combine 
in  this  structure  the  advantages  which  he  has  been  able  to 
discover  by  a  careful  personal  examination  of  numerous 
music  halls  in  Europe  and  America.  This  is  of  especial 
importance,  as  it  is  proposed  to  have  one  of  the  largest 
organs  in  the  world  placed  here. 

In  the  matter  of  ventilation,  the  architect  has  had  the 
assistance  of  the  large  experience,  in  that  department,  of 
Dr.  Morrill  Wyman,  of  Cambridge.  Mr.  Alpheus  C. 
Morse,  a  native  of  Boston,  (a  partner  of  Mr.  Snell,)  has 
also  assisted  in  the  arrangement  of  the  decorations  of  the 
interior. 

The  entrances  are  from  "Winter  Street,  Bumstead  Place, 
and  Bromfield  Street.  Ample  accommodations  are  atFord- 
ed  for  drawing  rooms,  alcoves,  offices,  &c. 

Masonic  Temple.  —  This  building  is  situated  in  Tre- 
mont  Street,  on  part  of  the  land  that  was  formerly  Wash- 
ington Gardens.  The  corner  stone  was  laid  October  11, 
1830,  with  appropriate  Masonic  ceremonies,  by  the  Grand 
Lodge  of  Massachusetts.    This  Temple  was  dedicated  May 


MASONIC    TEMPLE. 


57 


30,  1832.  It  is  sixty  feet  wide,  and  eighty  and  a  half 
feet  long,  and  fronts  westwardly  on  Tremont  Street.  The 
walls  are  fifty -two  feet  high,  of  stone,  covered  with  a  slated 
roof,  twenty-four  feet  high,  containing  sixteen  windows  to 
light  the  attic  story.  The  gutters  are  of  cast  iron,  and 
the  water  trunks  are  of  copper.     The  basement  is  of  fine 


hammered  granite,  twelve  feet  high,  with  a  belt  of  the 
same.  The  towers  at  the  corners  next  Tremont  Street 
are  sixteen  feet  square,  surmounted  with  granite  battle- 
ments, and  pinnacles  rising  ninety-five  -  feet  from  the 
ground.     The  door  and  window  frames  are  of  fine  ham- 


58  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

mered  granite,  and  the  main  walls,  from  the  basement  to 
the  roof,  are  of  Quincy  granite,  disposed  in  courses,  in 
such  a  manner  as  to  present  a  finished  appearance  to  the 
eye.  The  blocks  are  triangular  in  shape,  and  there  is 
probably  no  other  such  building  in  Massachusetts. 

From  the  street  are  two  flights  of  winding  stairs  in 
the  towers,  sufficiently  spacious  to  admit  a  free  entrance 
to  the  five  stories  of  the  building.  The  first  story  is 
occupied  for  miscellaneous  purposes ;  the  second  by  the 
spacious  salesrooms  of  Messrs.  Chickering  &  Sons ;  and 
the  third,  fourth,  and  fifth  stories  for  Masonic  purposes. 
The  different  Lodges  meet  as  follows  :  — 

St.  John's  Lodge,  first  Monday ;  St.  Andrew's,  second 
Thursday ;  Massachusetts,  third  Monday  ;  Columbian,  fix'st 
Thursday ;  Mount  Lebanon,  second  Monday ;  Winslow 
Lewis  Lodge,  second  Friday ;  Revere  Lodge,  first  Tues- 
day ;  Germaiiia  Lodge,  fourth  Monday ;  St.  Andrew's 
Chapter,  first  "Wednesday  ;  St.  Paul's  Chapter,  third  Tues- 
day ;  Boston  Encampment,  third  Wednesday ;  De  Molay 
Encampment,  fourth  Wednesday ;  Council  Royal  and 
Select  Masters,  third  Thursday ;  Grand  Lodge,  second 
Wednesday  in  December,  March,  June,  and  September, 
27th  December,  annually ;  Grand  Chapter,  Tuesday  pre- 
ceding second  Wednesday  of  March,  June,  September,  and 
December;  Grand  Encampment  of  Massachusetts  and 
Rhode  Island,  annually ;  Grand  Lodge  of  Perfection,  fourth 
Tuesday  ;  Board  of  Relief,  first  Tuesday  in  each  month. 


^^^^_  ,      CHxVPTER     VII.     ^^^^^ 

THE    STATE   HOUSE.  —  UANCOCK    HOUSE. BOSTON    WATER- 
WORKS. 

Long  before  the  stranger  reaches  Boston,  he  must  have 
seen,  from  the  window  of  the  railway-car,  or  the  vessel's 
deck,  an  imposing  dome,  crowning  the  summit  of  the 
highest  of  the  three  hills  on  which  the  city  is  built. 
On  a  nearer  approach,  he  will  perceive  that  this  dome 
surmounts  a  splendid  and  spacious  edifice ;  and  this,  he 
will  learn,  is 

The  State  House.  —  To  this  place  it  would  be  well 
to  pay  an  early  visit,  as  from  the  window  of  the  lofty 
cupola  he  will  be  enabled  to  take  such  a  bird's  eye 
or  panoramic  view  of  the  city,  as  will  enable  him,  by 
fully  comprehending  its  various  localities,  and  their  rela- 
tions to  each  other,  to  render  his  future  investigations  all 
the  easier.  In  any  city  such  a  proceeding  would  prove 
advantageous,  but   especially  is  it  so  in    Boston,  where 

(.59) 


60  BOSTON   SIGHTS. 

strangers,  in  consequence  of  the  crooked  streets,  experience 
more  difficulty  in  ascertaining  their  whereabouts  than 
perhaps  in  any  other  large  place  in  the  Union ;  and  here 
we  now  are. 

It  were  scarcely  possible  to  conceive  a  more  appropriate 
situation  for  such  a  building  than  the  one  occupied  by  the 
State  House.  It  is  erected  about  the  centre  of  the  city, 
on  elevated  ground,  at  the  corner  of  Beacon  and  Mount 
Vernon  streets.  The  corner-stone  was  laid  on  the  Fourth 
of  July,  1795,  by  Governor  Samuel  Adams,  who  made  an 
address  on  the  occasion,  in  which  "  he  trusted  that  within 
its  walls  liberty  and  the  rights  of  man  would  be  forever 
advocated  and  supported."  In  1798  the  building  was 
finished,  and  occupied  by  the  Legislature. 

When  the  corner-stone  of  the  New  State  House  was  to 
be  laid,  it  was  conveyed  to  the  spot  by  fifteen  white  horses, 
there  being,  at  that  time,  but  fifteen  States  in  the  Union. 
Now  they  are  more  than  doubled. 

The  height  of  the  capitol,  to  the  summit  of  the  dome,  is 
one  hundred  and  ten  feet ;  the  frontage  is  one  hundred 
and  seventy-three  feet.  "  It  consists  externally  of  a  base- 
ment story  twenty  feet  high,  and  a  principal  story  thirty 
feet  high.  This,  in  the  centre  of  the  front,  is  covered  with 
an  attic  sixty  feet  wide,  and  twenty  feet  high,  which  is 
covered  with  a  pediment.  Immediately  above  arises  the 
dome,  fifty  feet  in  diameter,   and   thirty  in  height ;  the 


THE    STATE    HOUSE.  61 

whole  terminating  with  an  elegant  circular  lantern,  which 
supports  a  pine  cone.  The  basement  story  is  finished  in  a 
plain  style  on  the  wings,  with  square  windows.  The 
centre  is  ninety-four  feet  in  length,  and  formed  of  arches 
which  project  fourteen  feet,  and  make  a  covered  walk 
below,  and  support  a  colonnade  of  Corinthian  columns  of 
the  same  extent  above. 

"  The  largest  room  is  in  the  centre,  and  in  the  second 
story  (the  large  space  below  in  the  basement  story  is 
directly  under  this)  is  the  Representatives'  Chamber,  that 
will  accommodate  five  hundred  members,  and  sometimes 
they  have  been  more  numerous.  The  Senate  Chamber  is 
also  in  the  second  story,  at  the  east  end  of  the  building, 
and  is  sixty  feet  by  fifty.  At  the  west  is  a  large 
room  for  the  meetings  of  the  Governor  and  the  Executive 
Council,  with  a  convenient  ante-chamber." 

The  view  from  the  top  of  the  State  House  is  very 
extensive  and  variegated  ;  perhaps  nothing  in  the  country 
is  superior  to  it.  To  the  east  appears  the  bay  and  harbor 
of  Boston,  interspersed  with  beautiful  islands  ;  and  in  the 
distance  beyond  the  wide-extended  ocean.  To  the  north 
the  eye  is  met  by  Charlestown,  with  its  interesting  and 
memorable  heights,  and  the  Navy  Yard  of  the  United 
States ;  the  towns  of  Chelsea,  Maiden,  and  Medford,  and 
other  villages,  and  the  natural  forests  mingling  in  the 
distant  horizon.  To  the  west  is  a  fine  view  of  the  Charles 
6 


&2  BOSTON    SIGUT3. 

river  and  a  bay,  the  ancient  town  of  Cambridge,  rendered 
venerable  for  the  university,  now  above  two  hundred 
years  old ;  of  the  flourishing  villages  of  Cambridgeport 
and  East  Cambridge  (in  the  latter  of  which  is  a  large 
glass  manufacturing  establishment)  ;  of  the  highly-culti- 
vated towns  of  Brighton,  Brookline,  and  Newton  ;  and  to 
the  south  is  Roxbury,  which  seems  to  be  only  a  continu- 
ation of  Boston,  and  which  is  rapidly  increasing ;  Dor- 
chester, a  fine,  rich,  agricultural  town,  with  Milton  and 
Quincy  beyond,  and  still  further  south  the  Blue  Hills,  at 
the  distance  of  eight  or  nine  miles,  which  seem  to  bound 
the  prospect.  The  Common,  stretching  in  front  of  the 
capitol,  with  its  numerous  walks  and  flourishing  trees, 
where  "  the  rich  and  the  poor  meet  together,"  and  the 
humblest  have  the  proud  consciousness  that  they  are  free, 
and,  in  some  respects  (if  virtuous),  on  a  level  with  the 
learned  and  the  opulent,  adds  greatly  to  the  whole  scene. 
Large  sums  have  recently  been  expended  in  additions 
to  the  State  House,  both  within  and  without.  On  the 
lawns  in  front  are  two  beautiful  fountains.  The  design 
of  the  enlargement  was  to  obtain  additional  fire-proof  room 
for  the  safety  and  security  of  the  archives  of  the  state ; 
a  library-room  suflSciently  commodious  to  satisfy  the 
wants  of  the  present  and  future ;  and  additional  accom- 
modations for  the  several  departments  of  the  government, 
including   the   agricultural   bureau   recently  established. 


THE    STATE   HOUSE.  63 

The  plan  adopted  comprised  ante  or  committee  rooms  for 
the  use  of  the  Senate  and  Council,  and  committee  rooms 
for  the  general  use  of  the  Legislature.  The  dimensions  of 
the  library  are  as  follows  :  Length,  eighty-eight  feet ;  width, 
thirty-seven  feet ;  height,  thirty-six  and  a  half  feet.  It  is 
fitted  with  galleries  and  alcoves,  which  will  afford  abun- 
dant space  for  the  accumulations  of  many  future  years. 
The  basement  and  fire-proof  rooms  beneath  the  library  are 
of  the  same  dimensions  as  the  latter,  with  the  exception 
of  the  height ;  and  they  will  be  sufficient  to  accommodate 
the  agricultural  department,  and  to  afford  room  and 
security  for  the  public  archives.  All  the  designs  of 
the  plan,  so  far  as  providing  accommodations  is  con- 
cerned, are  fully  carried  out  in  the  structure,  which  is 
completely  fire-proof,  and  built  in  the  most  substantial 
and  massive  style.  The  wall  of  the  basement  story  is  of 
"  rusticated  dressed  granite,"  and  the  "others  of  brick.  A 
large  amount  of  iron  is  used  in  the  structure,  which  gives 
it  an  air  of  grandeur  and  solidity. 

The  best  time  to  ascend  the  cupola  is  before  eleven 
o'clock,  on  a  bright,  clear  day.  Visitors  are  required  to 
inscribe  their  names  on  a  register.  There  is  no  fee 
demanded. 

One  of  the  first  objects  that  attract  the  attention  of  a 
stranger,  on  entering  the  State  House,  is  the  statue  of 
Washington,  by  Sir  F.  Chantrey,  which  is  placed  in  the 


64 


BOSTON    SIGUTS. 


rotunda.     This  statue  was  purchased  by  private  subscrip- 
tion, and  was  placed  where  it  now  stands  in  1828. 

Like  nearly  all  the  works  of  the  distinguished  sculptor, 
in  this  production  Chantrey  has  somewhat  idealized  his 
subject.  Washington  is  represented  in  a  military  cloak, 
and  so  far  all  is  correct  enough,  but  the  features  are 
scarcely  those  of  the  Father  of  his  Country.  Nevertheless, 
as  a  work  of  art  it  is  extremely  fine,  and  reflects  honor 
on  the  public  spirit  of  those  who  procured  it. 


The  Hancock  House.  —  Near  the  capitol,  on  the  west, 
is  the  mansion-house  of  the  eminent  patriot,  the  late  John 
Hancock,  now  exhibiting  quite  an  ancient  appearance ; 
and  on  the  east,  about  the  same  distance,  was,  until 
recently,  situated  the  dwelling  of  the  late  James  Bow- 


HANCOCK    HOUSE.  05 

doin,  another  patriot  of  the  Revolution,  a  distinguished 
scholar  and  philosopher,  and  who,  by  his  firmness,  in  the 
critical  period  of  1786,  contributed  most  efficiently  to  the 
preservation  of  order  and  tranquillity  in  the  common- 
wealth. 

The  Hancock  House  is  one  of  the  celebrities  of  Boston, 
and  no  stranger,  who  feels  the  patriotic  impulse,  fails  to 
pay  it  a  visit. 

It  stands  in  Beacon-street,  very  near  the  State  House, 
and  fronts  the  south,  presenting  a  quaint  and  picturesque 
appearance,  embosomed,  as  it  is,  with  shrubs,  evergreens, 
trees,  and  flowers.  It  is  built  of  hewn  stone,  and  raised 
about  thirteen  feet  above  the  street,  the  ascent  being 
through  a  garden.  There  it  stands,  beside  its  modern 
neighbors,  like  a  venerable  grandsire  surrounded  by  his 
children's  children,  commanding  respectful  attention,  and 
even  admiration.  The  front  is  fifty-six  feet  in  breadth, 
and  it  terminates  in  two  lofty  stories.  Formerly  there 
was  a  delightful  garden  behind  the  house,  ascending  grad- 
ually to  the  high  lands  in  the  rear. 

In  the  governor's  time  we  are  told  that  in  front  of  the 
edifice  "  an  hundred  cows  daily  fed  "  on  the  Common. 

A  brave  place  for  hospitality  has  that  house  been  in  old 

times,  when  "  the  east  wing  formed  a  spacious  hall,  and 

the  west  wing  was  appropriated  to  domestic  purposes; 

the  whole  embracing,  with  the  stables,  coach-houseS;  and 

6* 


66  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

Other  offices,  an  extent  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet." 
There  was  also  a  glacis,  in  the  days  when  Thomas  Han- 
cock, the  governor's  father,  resided  there  ;  but  garden, 
glacis,  stables,  and  coach-houses,  have  made  way  for  streets 
and  houses.  The  interior  of  the  house  is  better  preserved  ; 
and  beneath  its  ancient  roof  reside  descendants  of  the 
governor.  It  is  a  pity  that  it  should  ever  be  razed  to  the 
ground ;  but  it  is  to  be  feared  that,  by  and  by,  the  place 
which  now  knows  it  will  know  it  no  more. 

TuE  Boston  Water- Wouks.  —  A  short  walk  on  Beacon 
Hill  brings  us  to  an  enormous  structure  of  massive  granite 
masonry,  which  will,  if  the  stranger  knows  not  its  uses, 
strike  him  with  astonishment.  It  is  not  a  jail,  though  it 
somewhat  resembles  one;  nor  is  it  a  warehouse,  nor  a 
church.  It  is  the  great  Beacon  Hill  Beservoir,  into  which 
flows,  from  Cochituate  Lake,  formerly  called  Long  Pond, 
the  water  which  supplies  the  city  with  the  pure  element. 
The  dimensions  of  this  huge  cistern  are,  on  Derne-street,  one 
hundred  and  ninety-nine  feet  and  three  inches  ;  on  Temple- 
street,  one  hundred  and  eighty-two  feet  and  eleven  inches ; 
on  Hancock-streot,  one  hundred  and  ninety-one  feet  seven 
inches ;  and  on  the  rear  of  Mount  Vernon-street,  two 
hundred  and  six  feet  and  five  inches.  From  the  founda- 
tion to  the  summit,  exclusive  of  railing,  it  is  on  Derne- 
street  sixty-six  feet,  and  on  the  rear  of  Mount  Vernon- 
street  forty- three  feet  high. 


THE   BOSTON    WATER-WORKS,  67 

This  building  is  an  immense  basin,  or  reservoir.  It 
rests  on  arches  of  immense  strength,  fourteen  and  three 
fourths  feet  span.  The  basin  holds  2,678,961  wine  gal- 
lons of  water. 

Two  granite  tablets  are  placed  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Reservoir,  with  the  following  inscriptions : 

BOSTON     WATER-WORKS. 

BEGUN   AUGUST,   1846.     WATER  INTRODUCED  OCTOBER,   1848. 

JOSIAH  QUINCY,   JR.,   Mayor. 

(NATHAN   HALE, 
COMMISSIONERS,  ^  JAMES   F.    BALDWIN, 
^THOMAS   B.    CURTIS. 


BOSTON     WATER-WORKS. 

THE  RESERVOIR  COMPLETED   NOVEMBER,  1849. 

JOHN   P.   BIGELOW,   Mayor. 

(W.    S.    AVHITWELL,    East   Div. 
ENGINEERS, .?  E.   S.   CHESBROUGH,    West   Div. 
(JOHN.   B.  JERVIS,   Consulting. 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

BOSTON  COMMON. OLD  ELM. FROG  POND. 


Were  we  to  be  asked,  "Wliat  is  the  great  feature  of 
Boston  city,  we  should  assuredly  reply,  Boston  Common. 

The  parks  of  the  British  metropolis  liave  not  unaptly 
been  termed  the  lungs  of  London.  With  equal  appropri- 
ateness the  Common  of  Boston  may  be  styled  the  great 

(33) 


BObXOiV    COMMON.  69 

breathing  ajiparatus  of  Boston.  In  summer  or  in  winter 
those  forty -eight  acres  of  undulating  ground,  green  with 
grass  or  white  with  snow,  constitute  a  favorite  place  of 
resort.  And  when  the  noble  trees  that  abound  there  are 
thick  with  foliage,  no  more  delightful  promenade  than 
those  broad  avenues  beneath  their  interlacing  boughs 
could  well  be  imagined. 

A  glance  at  the  early  history  of  the  Common  may  not 
be  uninteresting. 

"In  1634,  commissioners  were  chosen  to  dispose  of  un- 
occupied lands.  They  were  directed  to  leave  out  portions 
for  new  comers  and  the  further  benefits  of  the  town.  The 
Common  was  among  the  reserved  portions,  and  became 
public  property,  as  a  training  field  and  pasture.  In  1833 
a  city  ordinance  appeared,  forbidding  its  use  as  a  pasturage, 
and  it  has  long  since  ceased  to  be  a  training  field." 

The  citizens  of  Boston  have  always  been  proud  of  their 
beautiful  Common.  Several  times  have  attempts  been 
made  to  encroach  upon  it,  but  public  opinion  in  each  case 
defeated  the  object,  and  it  is  not  now  probable  that  a  single 
foot  of  it  will  be  misappropriated. 

The  American  elm  is  celebrated  abroad  for  its  beauty, 
and  our  Common  has  extremely  beautiful  groves  of  these 
graceful  trees,  whose  hanging  boughs  form  arches  on  high, 
which,  either  in  summer,  autumn,  or  winter,  attract  gen- 
eral admiration  for  their  fairv-like  tracery  —  Nature's  own 


70  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

drapery,  woven  by  her  most  fantastic  hands.  Time  and 
storm  have  dealt  hai'dly  with  some  of"  them,  and  they 
have  been  felled  and  supplanted  by  others,  where  repair 
was  impossible.  The  extreme  harthiess  of  the  malls  has 
operated  injuriously  upon  the  roots  of  many  of  them,  and 
canker  worms  have  occasionally  made  too  free  among  the 
branches ;  but  great  and  judicious  care  and  expense  have 
done  much  to  remedy  these  evils ;  and  the  full  foliage  of 
the  Common,  now  shading  the  numerous  paths  with  the 
magnificent  garniture  of  their  verdure,  affords  ample 
reward  for  years  of  intelligent  husbandry. 

The  richness  of  the  soil  on  our  Common  has  been  one 
reason  why  the  multitude  of  trees  which  decorate  it  have 
been  so  long  preserved  in  vigor  and  beauty.  In  the  sum- 
mer season  the  Common  presents  its  most  lovely  aspect ; 
all  the  malls  are  crowned  with  rich  green  canopies,  and 
the  carpet  spread  by  Nature  at  man's  feet  is  of  the  amplest 
and  freshest  verdure.  The  birds  and  squirrels  frolic  un- 
harmed amid  the  broad,  ancient  boughs,  and  the  malls, 
which  intei-sect  the  undulating  surface  of  the  lawn,  add 
vastly  to  its  ornate  appearance.  The  cathedral-like  arches 
which  overtop  the  elm-lined  malls  are  ever  charming  to 
the  artistic  eye ;  and  indeed  it  is  a  question  with  some 
whether  they  do  not  look  as  beautiful  in  their  winter 
robes,  when  the  network  of  spray-like  twigs  is  frosted  over 
with  the  fleece  of  snow,  or  a  crystalline  coating  of  ice 


THE    GREAT    ELM.  71 

glistens  with  prismatic  splendors  in  the  sunlight.  Truly, 
the  care  which  has  been  bestowed  upon  the  Common  has 
been  amply  repaid. 

Two  of  the  walks  in  Boston  were  formerly  designated 
by  the  names  Great  Mall  and  Little  Mall.  The 
Great  Mall  borders  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Common,  and 
the  Little  Mall  the  eastern  edge  of  the  Granary  or  Park 
Street  burying  ground.  The  last  named  was  planted  with 
English  elms  by  Colonel  Adino  Paddock,  in  1770.  They 
are  therefore  more  than  eighty  years  old.  The  trees  in 
the  Great  Mall  were  planted,  as  appears  from  the  plans, 
between  1722  and  1729.  Those  that  remain  are  therefore 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty  years  old.  The  trees  on 
the  Little  Mall  were  a  mixture  of  elms  and  buttonwoods. 
Mr.  Paddock  was  a  loyalist,  left  Boston  in  1776,  and  set- 
tled in  Nova  Scotia,  where  his  descendants  still  live. 

The  Great  Elm  is  one  of  the  lions  —  perhaps  the 
lion  —  of  Boston  Common.  Still  hale  and  strong,  it 
stands  about  the  centre  of  the  green,  and  is  supposed, 
from  various  data,  to  be  upwards  of  two  hundred  years 
old. 

In  1825  it  was  sixty -five  feet  high,  the  circumference  at 
thirty  inches  from  the  ground  being  twenty-one  feet  eight 
inches,  and  the  spread  of  branches  eighty-six  feet.  In 
1855  it  was  measured,  and  found  to  be  seventy-two  and  a 
half  feet  in  height ;  height  of  first  branch  from  the  ground, 


72 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


twenty-two  and  a  half  feet ;  girth  four  feet  from  the  ground, 
seventeen  feet;  average  diameter  of  greatest  spread  of 
branches,  one  hundred  and  one  feet.  This  shows  that  the 
ehn  has  grown  considerably  within  the  last  quarter  of  a 
centuiy. 

But  this  colossal   plant  has  more  interesting  features 
than  its  age  or  size,  though  they  are  great. 


t;lM>*!:I!    FI.M. 


There  was  once  a  powder  magazine  near  this  tree,  on 
the  little  liill  at  whose  foot  it  stands.  Tliis  liill,  also,  dur- 
ing the  siege  of  Boston,  was  the  site  of  a  British  fortifica- 
tion, bombarded  by  AVashingfon, 


THE    GREAT   ELJI. 


73 


In  the  war  of  1812  its  existence  was  endangered  by  the 
encampment  around  it  of  American  troops,  destined  to 
protect  the  town.  It  has  often  been  exposed  to  injury  by 
the  custom  of  lianging  and  burning  effigies  upon  its  giant 
branches ;  and  many  turbulent  occasions,  on  Election  and 
Independence  days,  have  exposed  the  tree  to  violence. 


WINTER  ELM. 


Severe  tempests  have  at  times  threatened  to  annihilate 
this  tree;  and  in  1831  or  1832  a  violent  storm  separated 
four  of  its  large  limbs,  and  so  far  detached  them  that  they 
rested  partially  upon  the  ground.  They  were  raised  and 
bolted  together ;  the  bolts  are  still  visible,  and  the  branches, 
7 


74  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

at  tlie  end  of  twenty-five  years,  appear  to  be  perfectly 
united. 

For  naany  years  the  interior  of  the  trunk  was  rotten, 
and  much  of  it  had  disappeared,  from  neglect ;  but  finally 
the  spirit  of  improvement,  which  came  upon  the  Common, 
extended  to  the  gi-eat  tree,  and  the  edges  of  the  aperture 
were  protected,  and  the  exterior  covered  by  canvas.  The 
parts  have  thus  been  regenerated,  and  the  opening  filled 
and  obUterated. 

Notwithstanding  the  years  that  have  rolled  over  the 
veteran  colossus,  it  still  presents  an  aspect  of  grandeur 
winch  will  ever  be  the  admiration  of  the  beholder.  Dr. 
Warren  remarks,  in  his  book  upon  the  Great  Tree,  — 

This  tree,  therefore,  we  must  venerate  as  a  visible 
rehc  of  the  Lidian  Shawmut,  for  all  its  other  native  trees 
and  groves  have  been  long  since  prostrated.  The  frail 
and  transient  memorials  of  the  aborigines  have  vanished ; 
even  the  hills  of  Trimountain  cannot  be  distinguished ; 
and  this  native  noble  elm  remains  to  present  a  substantial 
association  of  the  existing  with  the  former  ages  of  Boston." 

A  handsome  iron  fence  now  suiTounds  it,  through  which 
entrance  is  had  by  a  gate.  Flowers  adorn  the  little  circle 
enclosed  at  its  foot,  seeming  to  pay  the  homage  of  beauty 
to  majesty ;  and  squirrels  gambol  among  its  branches,  in 
which  a  shelter  and  food  are  provided  for  them.  The  fol- 
lowing inscription  is  on  the  fence :  — 


THE    GREAT    ELM.  75 

THE    OLD   ELM, 

This  tree  has  been  standing 
here  for  an  unknown  period. 
It  is  believed  to  have  existed  be- 
fore the  settlement  of  Boston,  be- 
ing full  grown  in  1722.     Exhibited 
marks  of  old  age  in  1792,  and  was 
nearly  destroyed  by  a  storm  in 
1832.     Protected  by  an  iron 
fence  in  1854.     J.  V.  C. 
Smith,  Mayor. 

The  following  lines,  dedicated  to  the  old  Elm  Tree  on 
Boston  Common,  by  Geo.  E.  Rice,  origmally  appeared  in 
the  Satmxlay  Evening  Gazette. 

TO  THE  GREAT  ELM  TREE  ON  BOSTON  COMMON. 

"When  first  from  mother  Earth  you  sprung, 
Ere  Chaucer,  Spenser,  Shakespeare  sung. 
Or  Puritans  had  come  among 
The  savages  to  loose  each  tongue 

In  psalms  and  prayers. 
These  forty  acres,  more  or  less, 
Now  gayly  clothed  in  Nature's  dress, 
Where  Yankees  walk,  and  brag,  and  guess. 
Was  but  a  "  howling  wilderness  " 

Of  wolves  and  bears. 

Say,  did  you  start  with  the  presenti- 
Ment  that  you'd  e'er  be  the  centre 
Of  all  that's  known 


76  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

About  the  sciences  and  arts  ? 
For  we  are  men  of  mighty  parts, 
And  strangers  say  that  Boston  hearts 
With  pride  are  blown ; 

And  fondly  deem  their  little  state 
To  be  "par  excellence  "  the  great, 

And  look  with  pity 
And  sore  contempt  on  those  who  say 
That  Europe  boasts  a  town  to-day 
That's  not  surpassed  in  every  way 

By  Boston  City. 

"What  wondi-ous  changes  you  have  seen 
Since  you  put  forth  yovu"  primal  green 

And  tender  shoot ; 
Three  hundred  years  your  life  has  spanned, 
Yet  calm,  serene,  erect  you  stand, 
Of  great  renown  throughout  the  land, 
Braced  up  with  many  an  iron  band, 
And  showing  marks  of  Time's  hard  hand 

From  crown  to  root. 

You,  when  a  slender  saphng,  saw 
The  persecuted  reach  this  shore. 

And  in  their  timi 
Treat  others  as  themselves  were  treated. 
To  mete  the  measure  that's  been  meted, 
And  cheat  if  he  has  e'er  been  cheated, 

How  does  man  yeam  ! 

Of  tales  perchance  devoid  of  truth, 
With  which  they  would,  in  early  youth, 
My  heart  appall. 


THE    GREAT    ELM.  77 

"Was  one  the  gossips  used  to  tell 
About  a  witch  so  grim  and  fell, 
That  here  was  hung  for  raising  — well, 
It  wasn't  Saul. 

Since  you  beheld  the  light  of  day, 
A  race  of  men  has  passed  away  — 

A  warlike  nation, 
Who,  oft  with  fire  water  plied, 
Lost  all  their  bravery  and  pride. 
And  yielded  to  the  rapid  stride 

Of  annexation. 

Behold,  a  mightier  race  appears. 
And  high  a  vast  republic  rears 

Her  giant  features. 
And  westward  steadily  we  drive 
The  few  poor  Indians  who  survive, 
And  barely  keep  the  race  alive  — 
Degenerate  creatures. 

For  are  we  not  the  mighty  lords 

And  masters  of  all  savage  hordes,  "" 

In  our  opinion  ? 
And  when  we  with  inferiors  deal, 
'Tis  well  to  use  the  iron  heel. 
And  make  them  wince,  and  writhe,  and  feel 

T'heir  lords'  dominion. 

You  heard  the  first  rebellious  hum 
Of  voices,  and  the  fife  and  drimi 
Of  revolution, 

7* 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

And  heard  the  bells  and  welkin  ring, 
When  they  threw  off  great  George,  their  king, 
And.  much  improved  by  that  same  thing 
Their  constitution. 

And  you  still  thrive  and  live  to  see 
The  country  prosperous  and  free, 

Fn  spite  of  all 
The  very  sage  prognostications 
Of  prophets  in  exalted  stations, 
Who  could  foresee  the  fate  of  nations. 

And  said  she'd  fall. 

You've  seen  both  the  tremendous  spread 
Of  commerce,  and  of  those  it  made 

Rich  and  ambitious, 
T\Tao  flaunt  with  parvenu's  true  pride. 
And  in  their  sho'n-y  coaches  ride. 
With  arms  emblazoned  on  the  side. 
Which  any  herald  who  descried 

Would  deem  flagitious. 

Majestic  tree !    You've  seen  much  worth 
From  little  Boston  issue  forth, 

And  know  some  men 
Who  love  their  kind,  and  give  their  store 
To  help  the  suffering  and  the  poor, 
Kor  drive  the  beggar  from  their  door. 
Heaven  bless  such  hearts,  and  give  them  more, 

I  pray  again. 

And  you  shall  sec  much  more  beside. 
Ere  to  your  root,  old  Boston's  pride. 
The  axe  is  laid. 


THE    FROG    POND. 


79 


And  long,  I  trust,  the  time  will  be, 
Ere  mayor  and  council  sit  on  thee, 
And  find  with  unanimity 
That  you're  decayed; 

For  you  are  still  quite  hale  and  stanch. 
Though  here  and  there  perhaps  a  branch 

Is  slightly  rotten ; 
And  you  will  stand  and  hold  your  sway 
When  he  who  pens  this  rhjnne  to-day 
Shall  mingle  with  the  common  clay. 

And  be  forsrotten. 


The  Frog  Pond,  now  Ccalled  "  Cochituate  Lake    Ly 
supei--genteel  people,  or,  as   it  lias  been  called,  "  Quincy 


80  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

Lake,"  is  situated  near  the  Old  Elm  Tree,  whose  roots  it 
has  moistened  for  so  many  years.  The  original  form  has 
long  been  changed,  and  the  natural  pond  in  wliich  the  boys 
fished  for  minnows  and  horn-pout  is  now  supplied  from 
Cochituate  Lake ;  and  in  one  portion  a  fountain  sends  up 
its  sparkling  waters  to  the  height  of  over  ninety  feet.  A 
variety  of  jets  are  connected  with  it  at  pleasure  ;  and 
nothing  can  be  more  charming  than  the  effect  produced 
on  a  summer's  evening,  when  bands  discourse  sweet 
music,  and  the  strains  blend  with  the  sound  of  falling 
waters :  the  effect  is  inexpressibly  beautiful.  Then  is  the 
time  to  see  Boston  Common  and  its  tiny  silver  lake. 


CHAPTER    IX. 

PUBLIC    GAKDEN. PROVIDENCE    DEPOT.  —  PUBLIC 

LIBRARY. 

The  Public  Garden  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Common,  and  contains  about  twenty  acres.  Like  its 
neighbor,  all  walks  and  beauties  are  open  to  the  inspec- 
tion and  enjoyment  of  visitors.  Menageries  and  circuses 
often  pitch  their  tents  here,  and  hold  forth  to  the  great 
delight  of  the  curious.     Close  by,  on  Pleasant  Street,  is 

The  Providence  Railroad  Depot,  a  fine  brick 
structure,  and  rather  striking  in  its  architecture.  The 
interior  arrangements  are  good,  and  unusually  convenient. 
This  road  is  forty -three  miles  in  length,  and,  joined  with 
the  "  Stonington  Line,"  which  is  properly  a  continuation 
of  it,  connects  Boston  with  Long  Island  Sound.  The 
branch  roads  uniting  with  this  are  the  Dedham,  Stough- 
ton,  Taunton,  and  Attleboro'  roads. 

Cars  leave  the  depot  in  Boston  for  Providence  daily, 
stopping  at  Roxbury,  which  is  two  miles  from  the  city, 
Jamaica  Plain,  three  and  a  half  miles. 

Canton,  fourteen  miles  from   Boston,  is  a  beautifully- 

(81) 


82 


BOSTON   SIGHTS. 


diversified  and  picturesque  town,  watered  by  the  Neponset 
Eiver,  which,  with  the  numerous  ponds  in  its  vicinity, 
gives  it  an  extensive  water  power.  The  railroad  bridge 
which  crosses  the  river  at  Canton  is  one  of  the  finest 
pieces  of  masonry  in  the  country.  It  is  of  hewn  granite, 
is  six  hundred  and  twelve  feet  long,  and  elevated  sixty- 


three  feet  above  the  foundation,  resting  on  six  arches,  with 
a  succession  of  arches  on  top.  Its  cost  exceeded  ninety 
thousand  dollars. 

Sharon,  seventeen  and  a  half  miles  from  Boston,  occu- 
pies  the   highest  land  between   Boston  and  Providence. 


PUBLIC    HBRAIIY. 


83 


Its  natural  scenery  is  exceedingly  fine.  Mashapoag  Pond, 
a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  over  a  mile  in  length,  rests  upon 
a  bed  of  iron  ore.  During  the  low  stages  of  the  water, 
the  ore  is  extracted  by  machines  made  for  the  purpose. 
Fishing  and  pleasure  parties  frequent  this  pond  in  the 
summer  season. 

Mansfield  is  twenty-four  miles,  Attleboro'  thu-ty-one 
miles,  Pawtucket  thirty-nine  miles,  and  Providence  forty- 
three  and  a  half  miles  from  Boston. 


TTiii :  i  r^ 


The  Public  Library  building  of  the  city  of  Boston 
is   situated  on   Boy  Is  ton    Street,  opposite  the   Common, 


84  BOSTON    SIGHTS 

(although  the  library  itself  tempoi*ai'ily  reposes  in  Mason 
Street,  until  the  new  building  is  quite  ready  for  its  recep- 
tion.) The  building  was  designed  by  Mr.  Charles  Kirby, 
and  is  eighty-two  i'eet  in  front,  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
eight  feet  deep,  and  two  stories  in  height,  besides  tlie  base- 
ment. The  loAver  or  basement  story  is  situated  below  the 
level  of  the  sidewalk. 

The  first  story  of  the  building  contains  tlie  large  hall 
of  entrance,  which  opens  directly  into  the  room  for  distri- 
bution, which  occupies  the  central  part  of  the  story.  It 
is  intended  to  serve  also  as  a  conversation  room.  This 
room  is  connected  with  a  large  hall  in  the  rear  of  the 
building,  having  a  gallery  and  twenty  alcoves,  calculated 
to  contain  about  forty  thousand  of  the  books  most  fre- 
quently demanded  for  use.  On  the  front  of  the  building, 
and  entered  only  from  the  room  of  delivery,  are  two  read- 
ing rooms,  one  on  the  east  for  ladies,  and  one  on  the  west, 
amply  supplied  with  the  periodicals  of  the  day,  for  gen- 
eral use. 

The  second  or  principal  story  is  one  hall,  approached 
by  visitors  only  by  the  staircase  in  the  entrance  hall. 
This  hall,  which  by  calculation  will  contain  more  than  two 
hundred  thousand  volumes,  has  ten  alcoves  on  each  of  its 
sides,  and  the  same  number  m  each  of  its  galleries,  mak- 
ing sixty  alcoves  in  all.  Each  alcove  contains  ten  ranges 
of  shelves,  and  each  range  ten  shelves.     Tlie  object  of 


PUBLIC    LIBRARY.  85 

this  decimal  arrangement  of  shelves  is  to  simplify  all  the 
details  connected  with  the  library. 

Beneath  the  jirincipal  story,  and  immediately  over  the 
delivery  room,  is  a  half  story,  designed  for  workrooms 
and  storerooms.  At  the  corners  on  the  rear  of  the  build- 
ing are  towers  for  stairs  and  other  conveniences. 

The  building  is  constructed  of  brick,  and  the  ornamen- 
tal portions  are  of  sandstone.  The  whole  building  is 
strictly  fire-proof;  even  the  floors  are  constructed  of  brick 
and  iron,  and  no  Avood  enters  into  their  construction.  The 
corner  stone  was  laid  with  great  ceremony  on  the  17th  of 
September,  1855.  The  Ubrary  contains  thirty-three  thou- 
sand volumes,  and  is  free  to  all  of  good  reputation  residing 

in  the  city. 

8 


CHAPTER  X. 

WORCESTER  DEPOT  AND  ROAD. OLD  COLONY  AND 

FALL  RIVER  DEPOT  AND  ROAD. 

Leaving  the  Public  Library,  a  sti-oU  through  Boylston 
Street,  (passing  the  spot  where  the  Liberty  Tree  once 
grew,)  down  Beach  Street,  brings  us  to  The  Boston  and 
Worcester    Railroad    Depot.      It  is   a  very  plahi 


% 


(8G) 


WOKOESTEK  DEPOT  AND  KOAD.  87 

brick  building,  but  covering  a  large  area  of  ground,  focing 
on  Kneeland  Street,  with  entrances  and  exits  on  Kneeland> 
Albany,  and  Lincoln  Streets.  The  accommodations  are 
spacious,  and  the  arrangements  so  well  made  that  the 
stranger,  on  his  arrival,  is  not  in  danger  of  being  pulled 
in  pieces  by  officious  hackmen,  for  here  each  has  his  place 
and  nmst  keep  it.  The  vicinity  of  this  depot  presents  a 
busy  scene  on  the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  New  York 
and  Albany  trains,  and  it  is  well  worth  the  walk  to  wit- 
ness it.  The  branch  roads  uniting  with  this  road  are,  the 
Brookline,  Newton  Lower  Falls,  and  Saxonville  ;  the  Mil- 
ford  branch,  from  South  Framingham  depot  to  Milford ; 
the  Millbury  branch,  from  Grafton  to  Millbury ;  and  the 
Agricultural,  from  South  Framingham  to  Marlboro'. 

Brighton,  the  first  stopping  place  on  this  route,  five 
miles  from  Boston,  is  a  pleasant  town  on  the  south  side 
of  Charles  River.  It  is  noted  for  its  cattle  market,  the 
largest  in  New  England.  Monday  is  the  market  day, 
when  buyers  and  sellers  congregate  in  large  numbers  to 
traffic  in  live  stock.  This  town  has  become  the  residence 
of  many  persons  of  wealth  and  taste,  who  occupy  beauti- 
ful country  seats,  with  splendid  gardens  attached.  Win- 
ship's  Garden  is  famed  for  its  nursery  of  fine  fruit  trees 
and  shrubbery,  and  for  its  grand  display  of  fruits  and 
flowers  of  every  variety.     It  is  free  to  visitors. 

Newton  is  both  an  agricultural  and  a  manufacturing 


88  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

town.  Its  borders  are  washed  by  Charles  River  for  sev- 
eral miles.  There  are  two  sets  of  falls  on  that  river  in 
this  town,  two  miles  apart,  called  the  Upper  and  Lower 
Falls,  on  which  are  extensive  paper  mills,  and  other  man- 
ufacturing establishments.  There  is  a  Theological  Semi- 
nary here,  established  in  1825. 

Needham  is  now  quite  a  manufacturing  town,  having 
several  paper  mills,  a  chocolate  mill,  a  coach  and  cai' 
manufactory,  and  manufactories  of  shoes,  hats,  &c.  It 
has  also  quarries  of  stone,  which  are  becoming  yearly 
more  valuable. 

Natick,  seventeen  miles  distant  from  the  city,  (called  by 
the  Indians  "  the  place  of  hills,")  is  watered  in  part  by 
Charles  River;  it  contains  several  delightful  ponds,  well 
stored  with  fish.  The  southern  part  of  Long  Pond  is  in 
this  to\vn,  and  is  seen  from  the  cars  while  passing.  The 
first  Indian  church  in  New  England  was  established  here 
in  16G0,  under  the  direction  of  the  apostle  Ehot. 

Framinghara,  twenty-one  miles  from  Boston,  has  the 
Sudbury  River  passing  through  its  centre.  Its  fishing, 
fowling,  and  other  sports  make  it  an  agreeable  place  of 
resort. 

Ilopkinton  is  twenty-four  miles  from  Boston,  and  Graf- 
ton thirty-eight  miles.  The  Western,  Nashua,  Norwich, 
and  several  other  routes  pass  over  this  road,  and  through 
Worcester,  to  gain  Boston. 


OLD  COLONY  DEPOT  AND  ROAD. 


89 


Not  far  from  this  depot  stands  The  Old  Colony 
AND  Fall  River  Depot,  at  the  corner  of  Kneeland  and 
South  Streets.     It  is  a  plain,  substantial  building  of  brick, 


and  very  convenient.  This  road  was  opened  for  travel 
on  the  19th  of  November,  1845,  and  extends  from  Boston 
to  Fall  River,  and  from  Braintree  to  Plymouth.  The 
branch  roads  connecting  with  it  are  the  South  Shore,  Cape 
Cod,  JVIilton,  IVIidtUeboro',  and  Taunton  roads. 

South  Boston,  the  first  stoppmg  place,  was  formerly  a 
part  of  Dorchester,  and  is  connected  with  Boston  by  two 
bridges,  and  also  by  the  Old  Colony  and  Fall  River  Rail- 
8* 


90  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

road.  Dorchester,  four  miles  from  Boston,  lies  on  Dor- 
chester Bay,  in  Boston  harbor.  It  is  under  a  high  state 
of  cultivation  —  fruits,  vegetables,  and  flowers  being  raised 
here  in  great  abundance ;  and  this  town,  in  consequence  of 
the  facilities  for  reaching  Boston,  has  become  a  favorite 
place  of  residence  for  many  of  its  citizens. 

Neponset  Village,  five  miles  fi'om  Boston,  situated  in 
the  iovm  of  Dorchester,  is  on  the  Neponset  River,  near 
its  mouth.  It  has  considerable  trade,  and  the  population 
is  rapidly  increasing. 

Quincy,  eight  miles  from  Boston,  is  situated  on  Quincy 
Bay,  in  Boston  harbor.  The  village,  which  is  built  on  an 
elevated  plain,  is  remai'kable  for  its  neatness  and  beauty. 
The  ancestral  estate  of  the  Quincy  family,  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  residences  in  New  England,  is  in  this  town. 
In  a  church  in  the  village,  erected  in  1828  at  a  cost  of 
forty  thousand  dollars,  is  a  beautiful  monument  to  the 
memory  of  John  Adams  and  liis  wife.  This  town  sup- 
phes  the  "  Quincy  gi-anite,"  noted  for  its  durability  and 
beauty.  Immense  quantities  are  annually  quarried  and 
sent  to  various  parts  of  the  United  States. 

The  first  railway  constructed  in  this  country  Avas  in 
Quincy,  it  being  a  short  line  of  foui'  miles,  completed  in 
1827.  It  was  built  for  the  purpose  of  conveying  granite 
quarried  in  the  Granite  Hills  to  vessels  lying  in  the  Ne- 
ponset River,  and  still  remains  in  use.  Of  coarse  horse 
power  only  was  used. 


OLD  COLONY  DEPOT  AND  ROAD.  91 

North  Braintree  is  ten  and  a  half  miles  from  Boston, 
Bramtree  eleven  and  a  half,  South  AVeymouth  fifteen, 
North  Abington  eighteen,  Abington  nineteen  and  a  quar- 
ter. South  Abington  twenty-one,  North  Hanson  twenty- 
three  and  a  quarter,  Hanson  twenty-four  and  three  quai'- 
ters,  Plympton  thhty,  Kingston  thirty-three. 

Plymouth,  the  terminus  of  the  Old  Colony  road,  is 
thirty-seven  miles  from  Boston,  and  is  celebrated  as  being 
the  landing  place  of  the  "Pilgrims,"  who  disembarked 
here  on  the  22d  of  December,  1620.  It  is  the  oldest 
town  m  New  England.  Pilgrim  Hall,  the  building  most 
worthy  of  notice,  contains  a  valuable  painting  represent- 
mg  the  landing  of  the  Pilgrims  from  the  "  Mayflowei-."  It 
is  thirteen  by  sixteen  feet,  and  is  valued  at  three  thousand 
dollars.  The  cabinet  of  the  Pilgrim  Society  contains 
many  valuable  antiquities.  From  Burying  Hill,  in  the 
rear  of  the  town,  which  is  elevated  one  hundred  and  sixty 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  a  fine  view  of  the  vil- 
lage, the  harbor,  and  shipping  beyond,  with  the  coast  for 
some  miles  in  extent.  "  Plymouth  Eock,"  a  deeply  inter- 
esting spot  to  New  Englanders,  is  near  the  termination  of 
Leyden  Street.  The  town  contains  about  two  hundred 
ponds;  the  largest,  called  Bilhngton  Sea,  is  about  six 
miles  in  circumference.  It  is  two  miles  south-west  of 
the  village,  and  contains  a  good  supply  of  pickerel  and 
perch. 


92 


BOSTON    SIGUTS. 


The  National  Monttjient  to  the  Forefathers,  a 
description  of  wliich  we  take  from  the  Boston  Almanac  of 
1856,  is  to  be  erected  here.  The  design  comprises  an 
octagonal  pedestal,  eighty-tliree  feet  high,  upon  which 
stands  a  figure  of  Faith,  rising  to  the  height  of  seventy 
feet  above  the  platform  of  the  pedestal,  so  that  the  whole 


moiniment  will  rise  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  feet  above 
the  earth  upon  which  it  rests.  Faith  is  represented  as 
standing  upon  a  rock,  holding  in  her  left  hand  an  open 
Bible,  while  the  other  hand  is  uplifted  towards  heaven. 


OLD  COLONY  DEPOT  AND  ROAD.         93 

From  the  four  smaller  faces  of  the  main  pedestal  project 
wings  or  buttresses,  upon  which  are  seated  figures  em- 
blematic of  the  principles  upon  which  the  Pilgrim  Fathers 
proposed  to  found  then"  commonwealth.  These  are  Moral- 
ity, Law,  Education,  and  Freedom.  The  sides  of  the 
seats  upon  which  they  sit  are  decorated  with  niches,  in 
which  are  statues  appropriate  to  the  figures  above. 
•  Upon  the  larger  faces  of  the  main  pedestal  are  panels, 
which  are  intended  to  contain  records  of  the  names  of  the 
Pilgrims  of  the  Mayflower,  the  events  of  the  voyage,  the 
prominent  events  in  the  early  history  of  the  colony,  and 
the  events  which  occurred  previous  to  their  departure  from 
Delft  Haven.  Upon  smaller  panels,  placed  below  these, 
are  to  be  inscribed  events  connected  with  the  Pilgrim  So- 
ciety and  the  erection  of  the  monument,'  with  an  appro- 
priate dedication.  Upon  the  faces  of  the  wing  pedestals 
are  panels  designed  to  contain  alto-reliefs  of  the  departure 
from  Delft  Haven,  the  signing  of  the  social  compact  in  the 
cabin  of  the  Mayflower,  the  landing  at  Plymouth,  and  the 
first  treaty  with  the  Indians. 

In  the  main  pedestal  is  a  chamber  twenty-four  feet  in 
diameter,  and  from  the  floor  of  tliis  a  stone  staircase  leads 
to  the  platform  upon  which  stands  the  principal  figure. 

The  pedestal  is  eighty  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
the  sitting  figures  upon  the  wings  are  forty  feet  high  in 
their  position.     The  figures  in  the  panels  are  eighteen  feet 


94:  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

iu  height.  In  magnitude  the  monument  will  far  exceed 
any  monumental  structure  of  modern  times,  and  will 
equal  those  stupendous  works  of  the  Egyptians  which  for 
forty  centuries  have  awed  the  world  by  their  grandeur. 
The  figure  of  Faith  will  be  larger  than  any  known  statue 
excepting  that  of  the  great  Ramses,  now  overthrown,  and 
the  Colossus  of  Rhodes ;  and  the  sitting  figures  are  nearly 
equal  in  size  to  the  two  statues  of  Ramses  iu  the  plain  df 
Luxor.  The  architect  of  the  monument  is  Mr.  Hammatt 
Billings,  and  it  is  to  be  erected  at  Plymouth  under  the 
auspices  of  the  Pilgrim  Association. 


CHAPTER    XI. 

BOSTON    THEATRE. MELODEON. BOSTON    SOCIETY  OF 

NATURAL    HISTORY. 

Returning  to  Washington  Street,  a  short  walk  brings 
us  to  the  Boston  Theatre,  one  of  the  finest  places  of 
amusement  in  the  world,  and  by  far  the  most  beautiful  in 
America.  It  is  situated  on  Washington  and  Mason  Streets. 
The  entrance  front  on  the  former  is  a  simple  three  story 
building,  twenty-four  feet  in  width,  covered  with  mastic, 
and  with  no  attempt  at  architectural  display.  On  enter- 
ing, the  visitor  ascends  the  inclined  plane  of  a  spacious 
and  elegant  outer  vestibule,  the  walls  of  which,  hand- 
somely ornamented,  support  a  finely-arched  ceiling.  Here 
we  procure  tickets,  and  enter  the  inner  vestibule ;  before 
us  is  a  circular  staircase,  nine  feet  in  width ;  ascending, 
we  find  it  conducts  to  the  first  and  second  circles.  Entei'- 
ing  the  auditorium,  we  find  it  to  be  about  ninety  feet  in 
diameter,  and  circular  in  form,  except  that  it  slightly  flat- 
tens in  the  direction  of  the  stage ;  the  depth  from  the 
curtain  to  the  back  of  the  parquet  being  eighty-four  feet. 
The  front  of  the  stage  projects  into  the  auditorium  eighteen 

(95) 


96 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


feet,  and  the  height  of  the  auditorium  is  about  fifty-four 
feet.  There  are  proscenium  boxes  on  either  side  of  the 
stage,  handsomely  draped.     A  space  of  ten  or  twelve  feet 


from  the  parquet  wall,  and  nearly  parallel  with  the  front 
of  the  first  tier,  is  separated  and  somewhat  raised  from  the 
middle  portion  of   the   house,  the  whole   parquet  floor, 


BOSTON    THEATRE.  97 

however,  being  constructed  in  a  dishing  form,  and  varying 
several  feet.  Ai'ound  the  auditorium  above  are  the  first 
and  second  tiers,  the  gallery,  and  hanging  in  front,  a  little 
below  the  fii'st  tier  or  dress  circle,  is  a  light  balcony  con- 
taining two  rows  of  seats. 

In  the  parquet  and  balcony  there  are  iron-framed 
chairs,  cushioned  on  the  back,  seat,  and  arms,  and  so  con- 
trived that  the  seat  rises  when  not  in  use ;  and  the  first 
and  second  tiers  are  furnished  with  oaken-framed  sofas, 
covered  with  crimson  plush,  and  the  amphitheatre  with 
iron-framed  and  cushioned  settees.  The  walls  of  the 
auditorium  are  of  a  rose  tint;  the  fronts  of  the  balcony 
and  the  second  cu'cle  are  elaborately  and  tastefully  or- 
namented, and  the  frescoed  ceiling  embraces  in  its  de- 
sign allegorical  representations  of  the  twelve  months. 
Adding  to  the  eflfect  of  the  painting,  the  ceiling  is  deco- 
rated with  composition  ornaments,  many  of  them  richly 
gilded.  In  front,  over  the  stage,  is  a  splendid  clock,  with 
a  movable  dial. 

Returning  to  the  vestibule,  we  turn  to  the  right,  under 
the  arches,  and  reach  the  parquet  lohhy.  Passing  through 
this  apartment,  we  reach  the  saloon  and  di'essing  rooms  of 
this  story.  The  parquet  corridor  i's  gained  by  turning 
to  the  left,  through  the  arches,  until  we  arrive  at  the  foot 
of  the  grand  oaken  staircase,  which  is  built  of  solid  oak, 
and  separates  on  a  broad  landing  into  two  branches,  nine 
9 


98 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


feet  in  width,  Avhich  terminate  in  the  dress  circle  lobby. 
Opposite  the  staircase  are  open  arclies  communicating 
with  llie  grand  promenade  saloon,  wliich  is  forty-six  feet 
long,  twenty-six  feet  wide,  and  twenty-six  feet  high,  and 


tastefully  finished  with  ornamented  walls  and  ceiling,  and 
is  elegantly  furnished.  The  corridors  to  the  several  stories 
extend  entirely  round  the  auditorium. 

The  stage  side  of  the  theatre  is  on  Mason  Street,  and 
the  doors  and  arches,  breaking  the  sameness  of  the  brick 
wall,  comprise  a  pa-^sage  leading  to  the  carpenter's  shop 


BOSTON    THEATRE. 


99 


and  steam  works,  a  set  of  double  doors  for  the  introduc- 
tion of  horses,  carriages,  &c.,  should  such  ever  be  required 
for  the  purposes  of  the  stage,  a  private  door  for  the  use 
of  the  actors,  and  an  audience  entrance  at  the  corner  of 
the  building  nearest  "West  Street. 


The  stage  is  sixty-seven  feet  deep  from  the  curtain, 
and,  calculated  from  the  extreme  front,  or  foot  lights, 
measures  eighty-five  feet.  The  curtain  opening  is  about 
forty-eight  feet  in  width  by  forty-one  in  height.  There  is 
a  depth  of  some  thirty  feet  below  the  stage,  and  the  height 
from  the  stage  to  the  fly  floor  is  sixty-six  feet.     These  dis- 


100  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

tances  allow  the  raising  and  lowering  of  scenes  without 
Hnges  or  joints,  the  use  of  which  soon  injures  their  ap- 
pearance. There  are  seven  rows  of  side  scenes,  or  wings, 
with  considerable  space  beyond  the  most  remote,  for  per- 
spective. The  stage  is  provided  with  traps,  bridges,  and 
all  imaginable  contrivances  for  effect,  and  is  beheved  to 
unite  more  improvements,  and  to  be  the  best  arranged  of 
any  structure  of  the  kind  in  this  country.  The  green- 
room, on  the  level  of  the  stage,  is  a  decidedly  comfortable 
looking  apartment,  thirty-four  by  eighteen  feet,  neatly  fin- 
ished and  tinted,  handsomely  carpeted,  and  furnished 
around  the  sides  with  cushioned  seats,  covered  with  dark- 
green  enamelled  cloth.  Adjoining  it  is  a  small  "star" 
di-essing  room,  appropriately  fitted,  and  near  by  is  an 
apartment  for  the  manager,  also  a  small  property  room. 
Above  these  are  the  actors'  dressing  rooms,  furnished  with 
water,  heating  apparatus,  and  all  necessary  conveniences ; 
and  still  higher  is  the  stage  wardrobe  room. 

On  the  other  side  of  the  stage  there  are  additional 
dressing  rooms ;  above  these  a  spacious  property  store- 
room. Below  the  extreme  front  of  the  stage  is  located 
the  usual  apartment  for  the  use  of  the  orchestra,  with  side 
rooms  for  the  storage  of  music,  instruments,  &c.  Farther 
back  is  a  large  dressing  room  for  the  supernumeraries, 
and  two  or  three  stories  of  cellars  arranged  for  the  recep- 
tion of  scenes  from  above,  and  for  a  vai'iety  of  other  pur- 


SOCIETY    OP   NATURAL    HISTORY.  101 

poses.  The  walls  separating  the  stage  from  the  audito- 
rium are  of  brick,  and  considered  fire-proof,  while  the  cur- 
tain opening  is  provided  with  a  safety  screen  of  iron  net- 
work, balanced  by  weights,  and  managed  with  machinery 
so  arranged  as  to  be  operated  from  either  side  of  the  cur- 
tain wall.  Should  any  portion  of  the  stage  or  its  sur- 
roundings ever  take  fire  during  a  performance,  this  curtain 
can  be  immediately  lowered,  and  afford  complete  protec- 
tion to  an  audience. 

Close  to  the  entrance  on  Washington  Street  is  the  Melo- 
DEON,  a  small,  comfortable  hall,  used  for  religious,  pano- 
ramic, and  other  exhibitions. 

The  rooms  of  the  Boston  Society  of  Natural 
History  are  in  the  brick  building  adjoining  the  Boston 
Theatre,  in  Mason  Street.  They  are  nine  in  number. 
One  of  them  is  occupied  by  the  librarian,  and  each  of 
the  others  by  objects  of  interest  in  the  different  depart- 
ments of  natural  history.  All  who  desu'e  have  free 
access  to  the  cabinet  every  Wednesday ;  and  strangers  in 
the  city,  who  cannot  conveniently  visit  it  on  that  day,  can 
obtain  admission  at  any  time  by  application  to  an  officer 
of  the  society.  The  main  room,  which  is  entered  from 
the  first  floor,  contains  skeletons  of  different  animals  from 
all  parts  of  the  world,  from  that  of  the  huge  mastodon  to 
the  slender  bones  of  the  sprightly  squirrel.  In  an  ante- 
room are  cases  filled  with  rare  specimens  of  geology  and 
9* 


102  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

mineralogy.  Around  the  main  room  is  a  light  iron  bal- 
cony, giving  access  to  the  glass  cases,  which  are  likewise 
tilled  with  things  strange  and  wonderful  from  all  parts  of 
the  known  world.  Here  are  skulls  and  mummies,  fishes 
and  serpents,  fossil  remains  and  foot  marks  of  those  huge 
animals  that  walked,  or  birds  that  flew,  before  Adam  arose 
from  kindred  earth.  Ascending  to  the  next  story,  we 
enter  a  room  nearly  filled  with  every  vai'iety  of  birds, 
from  the  albatross  to  the  minute  humming  bird,  while  in 
the  centre  ai'e  long  cases  filled  with  eggs  of  the  different 
species,  and  many  kmds  of  nests.  One  of  the  anterooms 
is  filled  with  shells,  seemingly  in  endless  variety,  while 
specimens  of  moss,  sponges,  corals,  and  aquatic  plants 
enhven  the  collection  with  their  singular  beauty.  Another 
anteroom  is  filled  with  fishes.  In  yet  another  i*oom  the 
various  iiiembers  of  the  serpent  family  are  preserved. 
Here  we  may  see  the  enormous  boa,  the  fairy  green  snake, 
the  agile  black  snake,  the  famed  hooded  snake  of  India, 
and  the  poisonous  copper  head  of  our  own  country.  Here, 
also,  is  the  fascinating  rattlesnake,  and  such  numbers  of 
the  creeping  race  that  a  crawling  feeling  comes  over  us, 
and  we  quit  the  room  with  a  feeling  of  relief. 

Many  strangers  leave  the  city  without  seeing  the  splen- 
did cabinet  of  this  society,  and  many  residents  are  not 
even  aware  of  its  existence.  But  whether  resident  or 
stranger,  tlie  visitor  will  be  well  repaid  for  the  expendi- 
ture of  time. 


SOCIETY   OF   NATURAL    HISTORY.  103 

The  library  belonging  to  the  Massachusetts  Society  of 
Natural  History  contains  several  thousand  volumes  and 
a  number  of  valuable  manuscripts.  The  society  hold 
monthly  meetings,  and  several  of  their  proceedings  have 
been  published.  The  institution  now  owns  the  building 
which  was  formerly  occupied  by  the  Massachusetts  Medi- 
cal College ;  but  the  building  has  been  remodelled,  to 
adapt  it  to  its  present  purposes.  The  whole  estate  cost 
about  thirty  thousand  dollars,  which  was  obtained  by  sub- 
scription from  the  liberal  citizens  of  Boston. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

MERCANTILE    LIBRARY. LOWELL    INSTITUTE. ORD- 

WAY    HALL. BRATTLE    STREET    CHURCH. 

The  Mercantile  Library  Association  occupies  the 
second  floor  in  Mercantile  Building,  at  the  comer  of  Haw- 
ley  and  Summer  Streets,  the  main  entrance  being  from 
the  latter. 

The  Newspaper  Room,  which  occupies  the  front  of  the 
building,  facing  on  Summer  Street,  is  about  fifty  feet 
square,  and  is  furnished  with  twenty -two  stands  for  papers, 
made  in  the  most  approved  form,  and  handsomely  finished. 
These  stands  are  supplied  with  one  hundred  and  sixty 
newspapers,  comprising  nearly  all  of  the  better  class  of 
daily  papers  throughout  the  country,  and  a  well-selected 
list  of  foreign  weeklies  and  dailies,  offering  the  largest 
and  best  selection  of  any  reading  room  in  New  England. 

Besides  the  facilities  for  gathering  news,  there  are  other 
attractions  to  interest  visitors.  Facing  you,  as  you  enter, 
hangs  a  fine  copy  of  Stuart's  Washington,  a  gift  from  the 
Hon.  Edward  Everett ;  and  around  the  walls  are  sus- 
pended portraits  of  Webster,  Hamilton,  Vespucius,  Colum- 

(105) 


106  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

bu?,  and  some  of  our  much-honored  citizens  of  Boston, 
viz. :  Thomas  H.  Perkins,  Peter  C.  Brooks,  David 
Sears,  "William  Gray,  Thomas  C.  Amory,  and  Robert 
G.  Shaw. 

Prominent  among  the  attractions  and  ornaments  of  the 
room  stands  the  marble  statue  of  the  "  Wounded  Indian," 
by  Peter  Stephenson.  This  truly  American  work,  aside 
from  its  excellence  as  a  work  of  art,  is  celebrated  as  being 
the  first  statue  executed  in  the  marble  of  tliis  country,  and 
also  as  being  the  only  piece  of  sculpture  on  exhibition  at 
the  World's  Fair  at  London  that  was  designed  and  com- 
pleted in  the  United  States. 

Passing  from  the  Reading  Room,  you  enter  the  periodi- 
cal room.  This  room  is  about  one  third  as  large  as  the 
other,  and  is  furnished  with  ten  reading  tables  and  a  con- 
venient table  in  the  centre,  on  which  are  displayed  the 
periodicals.  There  are  also  cases'  on  one  side  of  the 
room,  filled  with  encyclopsedias,  lexicons,  and  other  works 
of  reference. 

Adjoining  the  Newspaper  Room  is  a  small  cabinet  con- 
taining the  curiosities  belonging  to  the  association,  as  well 
as  those  belonging  to  the  Marme  Society. 

The  library  room  is  seventy-iive  feet  four  inches  long, 
by  twenty  feet  six  inches  wide.  The  books  are  arranged 
on  the  walls  and  in  twenty-two  alcoves  extending  from  the 
walls  on  both  sides,  leaving  a  clear  passage  through  the 


MERCANTILE    LIBRARY.  107 

centre  of  six  feet  in  width.  The  present  shelving  of  the 
library  will  contain  twenty-five  thousand  volumes..  Its 
capacity  may  be  doubled  by  means  of  a  light  gallery, 
accessible  by  an  iron  circular  stairway.  The  number  of 
volumes  in  the  library  at  present  is  eighteen  thousand, 
and  is  increasing  at  the  rate  of  two  thousand  annually. 

By  the  terms  of  the  constitution,  any  person  engaged 
in  mercantile  pursuits,  who  is  more  than  fourteen  years  of 
age,  may  become  a  member  of  the  association  by  the  pay- 
ment of  two  dollars  annually.  Persons  not  engaged  in 
mercantile  pursuits  may  become  subscribei's,  and  be  enti- 
tled to  all  the  privileges  of  members,  except  that  of  voting, 
by  the  payment  of  two  dollars ;  and  ladies  may  become 
subscribers  on  the  same  terms. 

Mercantile  Hall  will  accommodate  about  seven  hundred 
persons,  is  centrally  located,  easy  of  access,  and  lighted 
from  the  ceiling.  It  is  well  ventilated,  and  furnished  with 
two  anterooms  on  each  side  of  the  rostrum.  It  is  a  pleas- 
ant, cheerful  room,  and  remarkably  well  adapted  by  its 
construction  for  a  lecture  or  concert  room,  and  is  in  much 
demand  for  these  purposes. 

The  main  entrance  to  the  hall  is  from  Summer  Street, 
by  a  broad  and  independent  passage  way  from  the  top  of 
the  staircase,  which  renders  it  unnecessary  for  persons  to 
pass  thi'ough  the  other  rooms  in  order  to  enter  the  hall. 
There  is  another  entrance  from  Hawley  Street;  and  by 


108  BOSTON   SIGHTS. 

f 

this  passage  ladies  who  come  to  the  library  for  books, 
and  do  not  wish  to  pass  through  the  reading  and  period- 
ical rooms,  can  reach  the  hbrarian's  desk. 

A  course  of  lectures  is  delivered  before  the  association 
each  wmter  by  talented  speakers.  Tickets,  admitting  a 
gentleman  and  lady,  are  sold  only  to  members.  The  pop- 
ularity of  these  lectures  has  been  so  gi'eat,  that,  although 
dehvered  in  the  largest  hall  in  the  city,  it  has  been  found 
necessary  on  several  occasions,  within  a  few  years,  to 
establish  two  courses  in  order  to  accommodate  all  the 
applicants  for  tickets. 

This  institution  is  the  oldest  of  all  the  Mercantile  Li- 
brary Associations  in  the  country,  having  been  founded  in 
March,  1820.  Among  the  many  institutions  founded  in 
this  city  for  intellectual,  moral,  and  social  improvement, 
none  are  exerting  a  more  beneficial  influence,  or  are  more 
firmly  established  m  the  confidence  of  the  people. 

The  Lowell  Institute,  with  an  entrance  from  Wash- 
ington Street,  is  the  next  object  of  interest.  It  was  founded 
by  John  Lowell,  Jr.,  Esq.,  for  the  support  of  regular  courses 
of  popular  and  scientific  lectures.  The  sum  bequeathed 
for  this  purpose  amounts  to  about  two  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  dollars.  By  his  will  he  provides  for  the  main- 
tenance and  support  of  public  lectures  on  natural  and 
revealed  religion,  physics  and  chemistry,  with  their  apph- 
cation  to  the  arts,  and  on  geology,  botany,  and  other  use- 


ORDWAY   HALL. BRATTLE    STREET   CHURCH.      109 

ful  subjects.  These  lectures  are  all  free.  The  season  for 
delivering  them  is  from  October  to  April,  during  which 
period  four  or  five  courses  (of  twelve  lectures  each)  are 
usually  delivered.  'Mr.  Lowell  died  at  Bombay  in  March, 
1836,  in  the  thirty-seventh  year  of  his  age. 

Ordwat  Hall  is  situated  in  Province  House  Court. 
The  building  is  very  old ;  and  when  Massachusetts  was 
a  province,  the  colonial  governors  resided  here.  The 
king's  coat  of  arms,  that  once  adorned  this  building,  is 
still  treasured  in  the  rooms  of  the  Massachusetts  Histor- 
ical Society,  and  seems  to  have  suffered  more  from  the 
tooth  of  time  than  the  stanch  old  building  it  once  adorned. 
Perhaps  the  smoke  fi'om  Lexington  and  Concord  dimmed 
its  bright  colors,  tarnished  its  gilding,  and  caused  it  to 
be  laid  aside  forever.  The  walls  of  this  old  house,  that 
once  echoed  with  kings'  decrees,  eloquent  speeches,  and 
loyal  toasts,  now  ring  with  the  gay  laugh,  tender  songs, 
and  humorous  jests  of  the  negro  minstrel.  The  hall, 
under  the  management  of  JVIr.  Ordway,  has  become  de- 
servedly popular,  as  order  is  preserved,  and  all  that  may 
offend  banished. 

Brattle  Street  Church  stands  in  Brattle  Square. 

The  first  house  of  worship,  a  wooden  building,  was  taken 

down  in  May,  1772,  to  make  room  for  the  present  one, 

which  was  built  upon  the  same  spot,  and  consecrated  July 

10 


110 


BOSTON   SIGHTS. 


25,  1773.  In  the  front  wall,  near  a  window,  may  be  seen 
the  veritable  cannon  ball  shot  from  AVashington's  camp  in 
Cambridge,  at  the  time  Boston  was  in  possession  of  the 
British. 


M-'f  r-    V- 


CHAPTER    XIII 

HOWARD    ATHEN^UM. BOAVDOIN    SQUARE.  —  NATIONAL 

THEATRE. LOWELL     DEPOT. EASTERN     RAILROAD 

DEPOT.  —  FITCHBURG  DEPOT. COPP's  HILL. MAINE 

DEPOT. 

The  Howard  Athen^um  is  centrally  located,  and 
fronts  on  Howard  Street,  occupying  the  spot  where  once 
stood  the  house  in  which  Governor  Eustis  died.  The  the- 
atre, although  not  large,  is  one  of  the  most  comfortable 
places  of  amusement  in  the  city,  and  is  deservedly  popular. 
Not  far  from  here  is  Bowdoin  Square,  surrounded  by 
some  of  the  finest  buildings  in  Boston.  On  one  side  rise 
the  lofty  walls  of  the  "princely  Revere;"  on  another, 
"  Coolidge  Block,"  (a  splendid  building  of  stone,)  the  strong 
gi'anite  walls  of  Bowdoin  Square  Church,  the  "  United 
States  Courts"  which  occupy  the  " old  Parkman  mansion" 
and  massive  "  Gore  Block ; "  while  from  the  centre  start 
the  cars  for  Cambridge,  Mount  Auburn,  «S:c.  There  are 
several  objects  of  interest  not  properly  in  the  route  we 
have  marked  out,  and  perhaps  it  were  as  well  to  diverge 
here,  although  obliged  to  return. 

(Ill) 


112 


BOSTON   SIGHTS. 


The  National  Theatre,  fronting  on  Traverse  Street, 
is  one  hundi'ed  and  twenty  feet  long  by  seventy-five  feet 
wide,  exclusive  of  saloons,  refreslunent  rooms,  &c.,  which 
are  spacious  and  convenient^  The  leading  architectural 
features  are  Doric,  presenting  broad  pilasters  with  slight 
projections  on  the  front,  which  support  an  unbroken  en- 


tablature and  a  pediment  eighteen  feet  high  at  each  end. 
The  roof  is  covered  with  slate  and  zinc,  and  is  surmounted 
by  an  octagonal  lantei'n,  twelve  feet  in  diameter  and 
eighteen  feet  high,  having  a  window  on  each  of  its  sides. 
The  structure  is  covered  on  the  exterior  walls  with  cement, 


BOSTON   AND    LOWELL    DEPOT.  113 

in  imitation  of  freestone,  which  gives  a  uniform  and  beau- 
ful  appearance. 

The  main  ceiling  of  the  interior  is  a  single  arch,  of 
fifty-five  feet  span,  rising  within  nine  feet  of  the  ridge. 
The  gallery  is  entirely  above  the  level  cornice  of  the 
building,  having  an  arched  ceiling,  which  rises  five  feet 
higher  than  th^main  ceiling,  and  is  ventilated  by  a  large 
round  window  placed  in  the  centre  of  the  tympanum. 
The  proscenium  presents  an  opening  forty  feet  wide  and 
thirty-three  feet  high.  The  circle  of  boxes  is  so  arranged 
that  in  every  part  of  the  house  a  full  view  is  had  of  the 
stage.  The  pit  is  unusually  large,  and  although  removed 
for  many  years,  has  been  reinstated,  and  now  contains 
about  five  hundred  seats.  The  National  has  been  a  very 
popular  theatre,  and  in  the  hands  of  a  good  manager  is 
always  profitable. 

The  Boston  and  Lowell  Depot,  at  the  foot  of 
Lowell  Street,  is  a  plain  brick  building,  with  no  preten- 
sions to  architectural  elegance.  The  length  of  the  road 
proper  is  twenty-gix  miles.  The  branch  road  connecting 
is  the  Woburn  Branch.  The  towns  passed  through  on  the 
road  to  Lowell  are, — 

East  Cambridge,  a  flourishing  place,  with  many  exten- 
sive manufactories,  of  which  the  glass  works  are  the  most 
important. 

Somerville,  three  miles  distant. 
10* 


114 


BOSTON   SIGHTS. 


Medford,  five  miles  from  Boston,  is  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Mystic  River,  and  noted  for  its  ship  buildmg. 

Woburn,  ten  miles,  Ifas  a  varied  and  pleasing  aspect, 
and  contains  some  beautiful  farms.     Horn  Pond,  in  this 


town,  is  a  delightful  sheet  of  water,  surrounded  by  ever- 
greens, and  is  so  remarkable  for  its  rural  beauties  as  to 
attract  many  visitors  from  a  distance- 
Wilmington  is  fifteen  miles,  Billerica  nineteen  miles, 
Billerica  Mills  twenty-two  miles,  and  Lowell  twenty-six 
miles  from  Boston. 

Tub  Eastern  Railroad  Depot,  which  is  built  of 


EASTEKN  RAILROAD  DEPOT. 


115 


wood,  stands  on  Causeway  Street,  at  the  foot  of  Friend 
and  Canal  Streets.  The  length  of  the  road  to  Ports- 
mouth is  fifty-six  miles,  or  to  Portland  one  hundred  and 


seven  miles.  On  the  way  to  Portsmouth  the  following 
towns  are  passed  through :  — 

Lynn,  nine  miles  distant,  is  noted  for  its  shoe  trade. 

Salem,  sixteen  miles,  was  formerly  engaged  in  the  East 
India  trade,  but  has  declined  in  commercial  importance, 
most  of  its  shijDping  having  been  removed  to  Boston, 
although  continuing  to  be  owned  in  Salem.  The  Museum 
of  the  East  India  Marine  Society  is  well  worth  a  visit,  for 


116  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

which  tickets  of  admission  can  be  procured  gratis,  on  ap- 
plication. It  is  remarkable  for  the  variety  and  extent  of 
its  natural  and  artificial  curiosities,  collected  from  every 
part  of  the  world.  The  road  passes  through  a  tunnel 
built  under  Essex  and  "Washington  Streets,  and  is  thence 
carried  over  a  bridge  of  considerable  length  to  Beverly. 

Beverly,  sixteen  miles  from  Boston,  is  connected  with 
Salem  by  a  bridge  across  the  North  River  fifteen  hundred 
feet  in  length. 

Wenham  is  twenty-two  miles,  Ipswich  twenty-seven 
miles,  Eowley  thirty-one  miles,  Newburyport  thirty-six 
miles.  The  celebrated  George  "Whitefield  died  in  this 
town  in  September,  1770.  Salisbury  Beach  is  thirty- 
eight  miles,  Seabrook  forty-two  miles,  Hampton  forty-six 
miles,  and  Portsmouth  fifty-six  miles  from  Boston.  The 
branch  I'oads  connecting  with  this  road  are  the  Saugus, 
Marblehead,  South  Reading,  Gloucester,  Essex,  and  Ames- 
bury  branches. 

The  FiTCHBURG  Depot  fronts  on  Causeway  Street,  at 
the  corner  of  Haverhill  Street.  The  buildmg,  which  is 
three  hundred  and  sixteen  feet  long,  ninety-six  feet  wide, 
and  two  stories  high,  is  of  Fitchburg  granite,  and  one  of 
the  handsomest  depots  in  this  country.  Several  roads 
unite  with  this  road,  and  the  Lexington  and  West  Cam- 
bridge, "Watertown  and  IMarlboro',  Peterboro'  and  Shirley 
branches;  and  the  "Worcester  and  Nasliua,  and  Stony 
Brook  Railroads  connect  at  Groton  Junction. 


COPP'S  HILL.  117 

Charlestown,  the  first  place  reached  after  crossing  the 
viaduct  over  Charles  River,  is  built  on  a  peninsula  formed 
by  the  Charles  and  Mystic  Rivei-s,  and  is  connected  with  ^ 
Boston  by  two  pubUc  bridges,  by  one  with  Chelsea  and 


Maiden,  over  the  Mystic,  and  with  Cambridge  by  a  bridge 
over  Charles  River. 

Somerville  is  three  miles,  Waltham  ten  miles.  Concord 
twenty  miles,  Groton  thirty-five  miles,  and  Fitchburg  fifty 
miles  from  Boston. 

Copp's  Hill,  not  far  from  the  Fitchburg  Depot,  was 
formerly  called  Snow  Hill.     It  came  into  the  possession 


118 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


of  tlie  Ancient  and  Honorable  Ai'tillery  Company;  and 
when,  in  1775,  they  were  forbidden  by  General  Gage  to 
parade  on  the  Common,  they  went  to  this,  their  own 
ground,  and  drilled  in  defiance  of  his  threats.  The  foil, 
or  battery,  that  was  built  there  by  the  British,  just  before 
the  battle  of  Bunker  Hill,  stood  near  its  south-east  brow, 
adjoining  the  burying  ground.  The  remains  of  many 
eminent  men  repose  in  this  little  cemetery.     Close  by  the 


entrance  is  the  vault  of  the  Mather  family,  covered  by  a 
plain  oblong  structure  of  brick,  three  feet  high  and  about 
six  feet  long,  upon  which  is  laid  a  heavy  bro\\Ti  stone 
slab,  with  a  tablet  of  slate,  bearing  the  following  inscrip- 
tion :  — 


BOSTON    AND    MAINE    RAILROAD    DEPOT.  119 

The  Reverend  Doctors  Increase,  Cotton,  and  Samuel  Mather  were 
interred  in  this  vault. 

Increase  died  August  27,  1723,  je.  84. 
Cotton  "  Feb.  13,  1727,  "  65. 
Samuel       "    Jan.       27, 1785,  "    79.  ' 

The  whole  is  surrounded  by  a  neat  ii'on  railing. 


The  Boston  and  Maine  Railroad  Depot  fronts 
on  Haymarket  Square.  It  is  a  fine  large  brick  building, 
two  stories  high,  and  is  more  centrally  located  than  any 
other  depot  in  the  city.  The  lower  pai't  is  used  by  the 
Company,  but  the  large  upper  hall  is  occupied  as  a  carpet 
wareroom  by  Tenny  &  Co.     This  road  is  seventy-four 


120  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

miles  long,  and  reaches  to  Portland.  The  cars  pa-ss 
through  Charl(;stovvn,  which  is  distant  one  mile,  Maiden, 
four  miles.  South  Reading,  ten  miles,  Reading,  twelve 
miles,  Wilmington,  eighteen  miles,  Andover,  twenty-three 
miles,  Lawrence,  twenty-six  miles.  North  Andover,  twenty- 
eight  miles,  Bradford,  thirty-two  miles,  Haverhill,  thirty- 
three  miles,  Exeter,  fifty  miles,  Dover,  sixty-eight  miles, 
and  Portland,  one  hundred  and  eleven  miles. 

Most  of  the  towns  passed  through  by  this  road  are 
large  manufacturing  towns,  Lawrence  in  particular  being 
a  second  Lowell,  and  bearing  the  name  of  one  of  Massa- 
chusetts' noblest  sons,  through  whose  influence  it  gained  its 
present  thriving  position. 


CHAPTER    XIV. 

MASSACHUSETTS    GENERAL    HOSPITAL. MASSACHUSETTS 

MEDICAL     COLLEGE. CITY     JAIL. EYE     AND     EAK 

INFIRIVIARY. 


Returning   to   Bowdoin    Square,   and   resuming  our 
route,  a  short  walk  brings  us  to  the  Massachusetts  Gen- 
eral Hospital.    This  building  is  located  in  Allen  Street. 
11  (121) 


122  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

It  had  originally  a  front  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-eight 
feet,  with  a  depth  of  fifty-four  feet,  and  a  portico  of  eight 
Ionic  columns ;  but  in  the  year  1846  it  was  enlarged,  and 
now  furnishes  accommodations  for  above  one  hundi-ed 
patients.  It  is  built  of  Chelmsford  granite,  the  columns 
of  their  capitals  being  of  the  same  material.  In  the  cen- 
tre of  the  two  principal  stories  are  the  rooms  of  the  officers 
of  the  institution.  Above  these  is  the  operating  theatre, 
which  is  lighted  from  the  dome.  The  wings  of  the  build- 
ing are  divided  into  wards  and  sick  rooms.  The  stau-case 
and  floorings  of  the  entries  are  of  stone.  The  whole 
house  is  supplied  with  heat  by  air  flues  from  furnaces,  and 
with  water  by  pipes  and  a  forcing  pump. 

The  premises  have  been  improved  by  the  planting  of 
ornamental  trees  and  shrubs,  and  the  extension  of  the 
gravel  walks  for  those  patients  whose  health  will  admit 
of  exercise  in  the  open  air,  while  a  high  fence  gives 
retirement  to  a  spot  that  should  be  always  still.  Applica- 
tions for  admission  of  patients  must  be  made  at  the  Hos- 
pital in  Allen  Street  between  nine  and  ten  A.  M.  on  each 
day  of  the  week  except  Sunday.  In  urgent  cases,  how- 
ever, application  may  be  made  at  other  times.  Applica- 
tions from  the  country  may  be  made  in  writing,  addressed 
to  the  admitting  physician ;  and  when  a  free  bed  is  de- 
sired, a  statement  of  the  pecuniary  circumstances  of  the 
patient  must  be  made.     No  visitors  are  admitted  to  the 


MCLEAN    ASYLirai    FOR    THE    INSANE.  123 

hospital  without  a  special  permit  from  the  officers  or 
trustees.  The  patients  may  be  visited  by  their  friends 
daily,  between  twelve  and  one  o'clock. 

The  McLean  Asylum  foe  the  Insane  is  under  the 
direction  of  the  trustees  of  the  Massachusetts  General 
Hospital,  it  being  a  branch  of  that  institution  ;  and  although 
situated  in  Somerville,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to  describe  it 
here.  It  is  about  one  mile  from  Boston,  on  a  delightful 
eminence,  and  consists  of  an  elegant  house  for  the  super- 
intendent, with  a  wing  at  each  end,  handsomely  constructed 
of  brick,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  inmates,  and  has  a 
large  hall  fifty  feet  long  by  twenty-live  feet  wide  and  four- 
teen high.  The  institution  is  supplied  with  billiard  tables, 
&c.,  for  the  amusement  of  the  inmates,  who  here  receive 
not  only  the  care,  comforts,  and  attention,  but  the  luxuries 
and  retirement,  which  they  had  enjoyed  at  home. 

The  male  boarders  and  the  female  boarders  have  apart- 
ments in  buildings  entirely  separated,  and  attended  solely 
by  persons  of  their  own  sex.  No  newspapers,  pamphlets, 
or  books  are  admitted  without  the  assent  of  the  attendant 
physician. 

Two  practitioners  in  physic  and  two  in  surgery  are 
annually  appointed  by  the  board  of  trustees,  to  act  as  a 
board  of  consultation.  Two  of  the  board  of  trustees  form 
the  visiting  committee  for  the  month,  and  each  month  are 
succeeded  by  two  others.     They  meet  at  the  asylum  every 


124  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

Tuesday,  to  act  upon  applications  for  admission  and  dis- 
chai'ges.  "  Tliej  shall  fix  the  rate  of  board  so  low  as  to 
make  it  as  much  a  charitable  institution  as  its  funds  will 
permit,  always  regarding  the  circumstances  of  the  respec- 
tive boarders,  and  the  accommodation  they  may  receive." 
The  lowest  rate  of  board  is  tliree  dollars  per  week- 
Near  the  hospital  in  Allen  Street,  and  at  the  foot  of 
of  North  Grove  Street,  stands  the  Massachusetts  Med- 
ical College.  This  building  will  accommodate  more 
than  three  hundred  students,  besides  affording  ample  space 
for  the  cabinet  which  has  been  collected  for  medical  and 
anatomical  purposes,  as  well  as  for  all  the  other  objects  of 
the  institution. 

This  institution  is  properly  a  branch  of  Harvard  Col- 
lege ;  and  taking  into  view  the  amount  of  instruction  given 
in  this  school,  the  extensive  apparatus  with  which  it  is 
furnished,  its  connection  with  the  numerous  cases  and 
operations  of  one  of  the  best  conducted  hospitals  in  the 
United  States,  together  with  the  generally  thorough  acqui- 
sitions and  high  respectability  of  its  graduates,  it  may  be 
doubted  whether  any  seminaiy  in  the  country  offers  the 
means  of  a  more  complete  professional  education  than 
may  be  obtained  in  the  medical  school  at  Boston. 

The  cabinet  contains  the  "  Warren  anatomical  cabinet," 
(consisting  of  the  donations  of  Dr.  Nichols,  formerly  of 
London,  and  others,  with  a  large  number  of  preparations 


NEW   CITY   JAIL.  125 

by  himself,)  plaster  models  representing  various  surgical 
diseases,  &c.,  an  extensive  collection  of  preparations  in 
wax,  showing  various  tumors  and  diseases  of  the  skin, 
many  beautiful  magnified  drawings  of  subjects  in  anatomy 
and  surgery,  specimens  and  colored  engravings  of  medici- 
nal plants,  &c. 

By  the  will  of  Dr.  Warren,  his  skeleton  is  to  be  pre- 
sented to  this  college,  and  the  institution  whose  interests 
he  for  so  many  years  strove  to  forward  is  to  become  the 
recipient  of  his  remains.  A  large  medical  library  is  con- 
nected with  the  institution. 

The  New  City  Jail  is  located  on  a  street  to  be  a 
continuation  of  Charles  Street  northerly,  between  it  and 
Grove  Street,  on  land  reclaimed  from  the  ocean,  about 
one  hundred  feet  north  of  Cambridge  Street,  between  that 
street  and  the  Medical  College. 

The  Jail  consists  of  a  centre  octagonal  building  having 
four  wings  radiating  from  the  centre.  The  main  building 
is  seventy  feet  square,  and  eighty-five  feet  in  height.  It 
is  but  two  stories  high,  the  lower  one  of  which  contains 
the  great  kitchen,  scullery,  bakery,  and  laundiy.  The 
upper  story  contains  the  great  central  guard  and  inspec- 
tion room.  This  room  is  seventy  feet  square,  and  con- 
tains the  galleries  and  staircases  connecting  with  the  gal- 
leries outside  of  the  cells  in  the  three  wings. 

The  north,  south,  and  east  wings  contain  the  cells, 
11* 


126 


BOSTON    SIGHTS. 


and  are  constructed  upon  the  "Auburn  plan,"  being  a 
prison  within  a  |)rison.  The  north  and  south  wings  each 
measure  eighty  feet  six  inches  in  length,  fifty-five  feet  in 
width,  and  fifty-six  feet  in  height.  The  east  wing  meas- 
ures one  hundred  and  sixty-four  feet  six  inches  in  length, 
fifty-five  feet  m  width,  and  fifty-six  feet  in  height  above 


-<^ 


the  surface  of  the  ground.  The  west  wing  measures  fifty- 
five  feet  in  width,  sixty-four  feet  in  length,  and  of  uniform 
height  with  the  tliree  other  wings,  four  stories  in  height, 
tlie  lower  one  of  wliich  contains  the  family  kitchen  and 
scullery  of  the  jailei". 


EYE    AND    EAR    INFIRMARY.  127 

The  exterior  of  the  structure  is  entirely  of  Quincy 
granite,  foi'med  with  spht  ashlar  in  courses,  with  cornices 
and  other  projecting  portions  hammered  or  dressed;  the 
remaining  portions  of  the  entire  building,  both  inside  and 
outside,  are  of  brick,  iron,  and  stone,  excepting  the  inte- 
rior of  the  west  wing,  which  is  finished  with  wood. 

The  Eye  and  Ear  Infirmary  is  situated  on  Charles 
Street,  a  short  distance  south  of  Cambridge  Bridge.  The 
building  is  of  brick,  and  consists  of  a  main  building  and 
two  wings.  The  front  of  the  principal  buildmg  (which  is 
sixty-seven  feet  in  length  and  forty-four  feet  deep)  is  em- 
bellished by  stone  di'essings  to  all  the  windows,  doors, 
cornices  in  the  Italian  style.  The  wings  retire  from  the 
front  eleven  feet,  and  are  jjerfectly  plain.  In  the  base- 
ment are  the  kitchen,  wash  room,  laundry,  refectory 
wards,  baths,  store  rooms,  &c.  In  the  first  story  in  the 
main  building  are  rooms  for  the  matron  and  committee, 
and  receiving  and  reading  rooms ;  in  the  wmgs  are  the 
male  wards,  with  operating,  apothecary,  and  bath  rooms. 
In  the  second  story  are  accommodations  for  the  matron, 
and  private  female  wards.  The  building  is  provided  with 
a  thorough  system  of  ventilation,  and  the  whole  surrounded 
by  a  spacious,  airy  ground,  shut  out  from  the  street  by  a 
high  brick  wall.  This  histitution  is  intended  exclusively 
.  jr  the  poor,  and  no  fees  are  permitted  to  be  taken. 

In  the  rear  of  the  Infirmary,  and  extending  from  the 


128  BOSTON    SIGHTS. 

west  end  of  Cambridge  Street  to  the  opposite  shore  in 
Cam])ridgc,  is  Ganibridge  Bridge^  seeming  (from  a  little 
distance)  like  a  huge  cable  confining  Boston  to  the  main 
land.  This  bridge  was  the  second  built  over  Charles 
River,  and  the  first  bridge  over  which  a  horse  railroad 
left  the  city.  To  the  original  proprietors  a  toll  was 
granted  for  seventy  years  from  the  opening  of  the  bridge, 
which,  together  with  the  causeway,  was  estimated  to  have 
cost  twenty-three  thousand  pounds  lawful  money. 


ages 
lited 
ness 
;ome 
forts 
for- 
r  in 
lins- 


»pose 
,  and 
^hich 
Y  de- 
dis- 


The  vicinity  of  Boston  presents  a  succession  of  villages 
probably  not  to  be  paralleled  for  beauty  in  the  United 
States.  They  are  generally  the  residence  of  business 
men  from  the  city ;  and  a  suburban  residence  has  become 
so  attractive,  and  the  villages  so  stocked  witH  comforts 
and  luxiu'ies,  that  many  wealthy  families  who  used  for- 
merly to  pass  the  winter  in  the  city  and  the  summer  in 
the  country  make  the  latter  theu'  permanent  dwelling- 
place 

THE    SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

only,  and  the  correct  method  of  seeing  them,  we  propose 
to  give,  as  it  would  be  impossible,  within  our  limits,  and 
not  to  our  purpose,  to  describe  the  suburban  towns,  which 
are  all  worthy  of  a  visit.  Therefore  we  shall  merely  de- 
scribe the  suburban  sights,  and  leave  the  visitor  to  dis- 
cover new  beauties  in  each  town  he  may  visit. 

(129) 


CHAPTER    XV. 

CAMBRIDGE     SIGHTS. OLD    FORTIFICATIONS,    HARVARD 

INSTITUTE,    GORE    HALL,  WASHINGTON    HOUSE,    RIEDE- 
SEL    HOUSE,   WASHINGTON    ELM. MOUNT    AUBURN. 

Taking  the  cars  from  Bowdoin  Square,  it  takes  but  a 
short  time  to  be  landed  in  Cambridge.  At  the  corner  of 
Inman  Street  stands  a  noble  mansion,  shaded  by  fine  trees, 
and  with  a  noble  lawn  in  front.  Previous  to  the  revolu- 
tion it  was  owned  and  occupied  by  Ralph  Inman,  a  wealthy 
tory,  who  was  unceremoniously  dispossessed,  and  his  fine 
house  assigned  as  head  quarters  to  the  redoubtable  General 
Putnam.  The  street  which  leads  up  to  the  side  entrance 
of  the  house  perpetuates  the  name  of  its  original  owner. 

The  ridge  of  land  called  Dana  Hill,  which  is  approached 
by  an  almost  imperceptible  ascent,  forms  the  natural 
boundary  between  the  "Port"  and  "Old  Cambridge." 
On  the  summit  of  this  ridge,  on  the  right  hand  side  of  the 
road,  was  located  one  of  the  chain  of  redoubts  erected  by 
the  Americans  at  the  outset  of  the  revolution.  Traces 
of  it  have  been  visible  within  a  very  few  years,  but  they 
are  now  obliterated  in  the  march  of  improvement  —  that 

(131) 


132 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


same  spirit  of  progress  which  made  it  necessary  to  cut  a 
road  through  another  old  fort,  a  little  beyond  the  one  just 
mentioned,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  way.  The  land 
never  having  been  required  for  building  purposes,  this 
redoubt  continued  in  a  fine  state  of  preservation,  and  its 
embankment  and  fosse  were  plainly  distinguishable. 

Still  following  the  "  Main  Street,"  it  is  not  long  before 


the  turrets  of  Gore  Hall  —  the  library  building  of  the 
university  —  come  in  sight,  and  a  side  glimpse  of  the 
other  college  buildings  is  obtained  through  the  trees. 

Gore  Hall  is  of  recent  construction.     The  outer  walls 


CAMBRIDGE.  133 

of  the  building  are  of  rough  Quincy  granite  laid  in  regu- 
lar courses,  with  hammered  stone  buttresses,  towers,  pin- 
nacles, drip  stones,  &c.  The  inner  walls,  columns,  and 
the  main  floor  are  of  brick,  covered  with  hard  pine ;  the 
partitions  are  strengthened  by  iron  columns  concealed 
within  them,  and  the  roof  and  galleries  rest  on  iron  rafters. 
It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  the  extreme  length  of 
which  externally  is  one  hundred  and  forty  feet,  and  through 
the  transept  eighty-one  and  a  half  feet. 

The  interior  contains  a  hall  one  hundred  and  twelve 
feet  long  and  thirty-five  feet  high,  with  a  vaulted  ceiling 
supported  by  twenty  ribbed  columns.  The  spaces  between 
the  columns  and  side  walls  are  divided  by  partitions  into 
stalls  or  alcoves  for  books,  above  and  below  the  gallery. 
The  library  is  divided  into  four  departments,  viz. :  Public, 
Law,  Theological,  and  Medical.  It  contains  ninety  thou- 
sand volumes.  Among  its  curiosities  are  seven  Greek 
manuscripts,  (one  a  fragment  of  an  evangelistary,  proba- 
bly of  the  ninth  century,)  and  several  Oriental  manuscripts, 
in  Ai-abic,  Persian,  Hindostanee,  Japanese,  &c. 

Of  Roman  coins  the  library  has  six  hundred  and  seventy- 
one  in  copper,  forty-three  in  silver,  and  one  in  gold ;  of 
ancient  coins  other  than  Roman,  eight.  There  are  over 
five  hundred  modern  coins  of  all  sorts,  and  a  large  number 
of  medals. 

In  term  time  the  hbrary  is  open  on  the  first  four  secu- 
12 


134  SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 

lar  days  of  the  week,  from  nine  A.  M.  till  one  P.  M.,  and 
from  two  till  four  P.  M.,  and  on  Fridays  from  nine  A.  M. 
till  one  P.  M. ;  excepting  the  first  Friday  of  each  term, 
Christmas  Day,  the  days  of  public  Fast  and  Thanksgiv- 
ing, and  the  Fridays  following  them,  the  Fourth  of  July, 
and  the  days  of  i)ublic  exhibitions  and  the  Dudleian  Lec- 
ture, during  the  exercises.  In  the  vacations  the  library  is 
open  every  Monday  from  nine  A.  M.  till  one  P.  M.  All 
persons  who  wish  to  have  access  to  the  hbrary,  or  to  bring 
their  friends  to  see  it,  are  expected  to  make  then-  visits  on 
the  days  and  within  the  hours  above  named. 

University  Hall  is  a  handsome  granite  edifice,  and 
contains  the  chapel,  lecture  rooms,  &c.  Besides  the  large 
halls  occupied  by  the  under  graduates,  there  are  Divinity 
Hall,  appropriated  to  theological  students,  and  Holden 
Chapel,  which  contains  the  anatomical  museum,  «&:c.  A 
large  observatory  is  furnished  with  one  of  the  largest  and 
finest  telescopes  in  the  world.  The  Legislative  Gov- 
ernment is  vested  in  a  corporation,  which  consists  of  the 
president  and  six  fellows,  and  a  board  of  overseers,  com- 
posed of  the  i^resident,  the  governor  and  lieutenant  gov- 
ernor of  the  state,  the  members  of  the  executive  council 
and  the  Senate,  and  the  speaker  of  (lie  House  of  Repre- 
sentatives, ex  officiis,  together  with  tliirty  others,  fifteen 
clergymen  and  fifteen  laymen,  elected  for  the  purpose. 
The  faculty  of  instruction,  embracing  the  professional  and 


CAMBRIDGE.  135 

scientific  schools,  consists  of  the  president,  twenty-eight 
professors,  five  tutors,  and  several  teachers.  The  degree 
of  Bachelor  of  Ai'ts  is  conferred  at  the  close  of  a  course 
of  four  years'  study.  The  term  of  study  for  the  divinity 
school  is  tlu-ee  years ;  that  of  the  law  school,  three  years 
for  graduates  of  any  college,  and  five  for  students  who 
have  not  received  a  classical  education.  There  are  very 
liberal  funds  appropriated  to  the  support  of  students  who 
require  assistance  in  the  prosecution  of  their  studies. 
The  law  school,  which  enjoys  a  high  repute,  was  estab- 
Ushed  in  1817.  The  lectures  to  the  medical  students  are 
delivered  at  the  Massachusetts  Medical  College,  in  Boston. 
A  degree  of  M.  D.  is  conferred  only  upon  those  students 
who  have  attended  the  courses  of  lectures,  and  spent  three 
years  under  the  tuition  of  a  regular  physician. 

The  foundation  of  Harvard  University  is  one  of  the 
most  honorable  events  in  the  history  of  Massachusetts. 
In  1630,  six  years  only  after  the  settlement  of  Boston, 
the  General  Court  appropriated  four  hundred  pounds  for 
the  establishment  of  a  school  or  college  at  Cambridge, 
then  called  Newtown.  When  we  consider  the  scantiness 
of  the  colonial  resources,  and  the  value  of  money  at  that 
time,  the  allowance  appears  no  less  than  munificent.  The 
colonial  records  mention  this  appropriation  in  the  follow- 
ing terms  :  "  The  court  agreed  to  give  four  hundred  pounds 
towards  a  school  or  college,  whereof  two  hundred  pounds 


136  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

be  paid  the  next  year,  and  two  hundred  pounds  when  the 
woi'k  is  finished,  and  the  next  court  to  appoint  where  and 
what  building."  The  colonists  were  then  involved  in  the 
Pequod  war.  Savage  says  the  sum  was  "  equal  to  a  year's 
rate  of  the  whole  colony."  But  the  college  owes  its  exist- 
ence in  fact  —  for  it  is  doubtful  whether  the  legislature 
would  have  cari-ied  their  plans  beyond  the  establishment 
of  a  grammar  school  —  to  the  liberahty  of  an  English 
clergyman,  the  Rev.  John  Harvard,  who  died  in  Charles- 
town  in  1G38.  Very  little  is  known  respecting  this 
benefactor  of  learning.  His  birthplace,  even,  cannot  be 
ascertained.  He  was,  however,  a  man  of  education,  hav- 
ing graduated  at  Cambridge  University,  England;  and 
he  preached  in  Newtown,  afterwards  Cambridge,  Massa- 
chusetts. Harvard  left  by  will  one  half  of  his  estate, 
about  eight  hundred  pounds  sterling,  to  the  school  which 
the  legislature  had  established  in  Newtown.  His  bequest 
gave  a  vigorous  impetus  to  the  new  estabUshment,  and  the 
General  Court  at  once  deteimined  to  erect  it  into  a  col- 
lege, to  be  called  Harvard,  in  commemoration  of  its  bene- 
factor ;  while  in  honor  of  the  classic  seat  of  learning  in 
the  mother  country,  Avhere  so  many  of  the  colonists  had 
been  educated,  the  name  of  Newtown  was  changed  to 
that  of  Cambridge.  "  It  pleased  God,"  says  a  contempo- 
rary waiter,  "  to  stir  up  the  heart  of  one  Mr.  Harvard  (a 
godly  gentleman  and  lover  of  learning  then  livmg  among 


CAMBRIDGE.  137 

us)  to  give  one  half  of  his  estate  towards  the  erection  of 
a  college,  and  all  his  library." 

"  When,"  says  Edward  Everett,  in  his  address  delivered 
at  the  erection  of  a  monument  to  John  Harvard,  in  the 
graveyard  at  Charlestown,  September  26, 1828,  "we  think 
of  the  mighty  importance,  in  our  community,  of  the  sys- 
tem of  pubhc  instruction,  and  regard  the  venerable  man 
whom  we  commemorate  as  the  first  to  set  the  example  of 
contributing  liberally  for  the  endowment  of  places  of  edu- 
cation, (an  example  faithfully  imitated  in  this  region  in 
almost  every  succeeding  age,)  we  cannot,  as  patriots, 
admit  that  any  honor  which  it  is  in  our  power  to  pay  to 
his  memory  is  beyond  his  desert." 

The  impulse  given  by  John  Harvard's  generosity  placed 
the  permanence  of  the  college  out  of  danger.  Four  years 
after  Harvard's  death,  a  class  graduated,  whose  finished 
education  reflected  the  highest  credit  on  their  alma  mater. 
The  university  became  the  pride  of  the  colony.  English 
youths  were  sent  hither  to  receive  their  education.  The 
legislature  continued  its  guardianship  and  care,  and  aided 
it  by  timely  donations,  while  private  individuals,  animated 
by  the  spirit  and  example  of  Harvard,  poured  their  con- 
tributions and  bequests  into  its  treasury.  It  was  richly 
endowed,  and  in  resources,  buildings,  library,  and  profes- 
sorships it  takes  precedence  of  all  other  institutions  of 
learning  in  the  country. 
12* 


138  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

The  annual  commencement  srill  attracts  crowds,  and  is 
regarded  with  interest ;  and  for  two  centuries  it  was  to 
Cambridge,  Boston,  and  its  enviz'ons  the  gi'eat  event  of 
the  year.  It  gathered  together  all  the  dignitaries,  aU  the 
learning,  and  all  the  beauty  and  fashion  of  the  land.  The 
university  comprises  a  department  for  under  graduates 
and  schools  of  theology,  law,  and  medicine.  A  most  im- 
portant addition  to  the  educational  advantages  of  Cam- 
bridge was  the  founding  of  the  Scientific  School,  in 
1848,  by  Hon.  Abbott  Lawrence,  with  a  fund  of  fifty 
thousand  dollars,  which  has  since  been  largely  increased. 
In  this  school,  young  men  who  have  not  received  a  classi- 
cal education  can  be  fitted  for  various  departments  of 
business,  as  chemists,  civil  engineers,  navigators,  &c. 

On  the  left,  opposite  Gore  Hall,  is  seen  a  large,  square, 
old-fasliioned  house,  at  a  little  distance  from  the  street, 
wliich  was  built  by  Mr.  Ap thorp,  who  was  a  native  of 
Boston,  but  received  his  education  at  the  university  of 
Cambridge,  in  England,  where  he  took  orders,  and  received 
the  appointment  of  missionary  to  the  newly-established 
church  in  this  place.  He  is  said  to  have  been  a  very  am- 
bitious man,  and  to  have  had  his  eye  upon  a  bishopric, 
which  he  fondly  hoped  would  be  established  in  New  Eng- 
land, having  Cambridge  for  its  centre,  and  himself  the 
,  metropolitan.  It  must  be  confessed  that  the  stately  man- 
sion which  was  erected  for  his  use,  still  styled  "  the  Bish- 


CAMBRIDGE.  139 

op's  Palace,"  far  surpassing  in  pretensions  the  general- 
ity of  houses  at  that  day,  gives  some  countenance  to  the 
traditionary  report  of  his  aristocratic  predilections.  But 
whatever  may  have  been  his  expectations,  they  were 
doomed  to  disappointment,  and  his  house  —  the  same 
which,  a  few  years  after  the  departure  of  its  original  pro- 
prietor, received  the  haughty  Burgoyne  beneath  its  roof, 
not  as  a  master,  but  as  a  discomfited  prisoner  of  war  — 
yet  retains  unmistakable  traces  of  its  former  elegance. 

Let  the  stranger  stroll  along  the  old  road  to  "Watertown 
—  the  Brattle  Street  of  the  moderns.  Leaving  the  ven- 
erable Brattle  mansion  on  the  left,  —  now  cast  into  the 
shade  by  the  "  Brattle  House,"  erected  on  a  portion  of  its 
once  elegant  domain,  —  and  passing  beyond  the  more 
tliickly  settled  part  of  the  village,  he  will  fuid,  on  each 
side  of  the  way,  spacious  edifices,  belonging  to  some  for- 
mer day  and  generation ;  extensive  gardens,  farms,  and 
orchards,  evidently  of  no  modern  date ;  and  trees  whose 
giant  forms  were  the  growth  of  years  gone  by.  Who 
built  these  stately  mansions,  so  unlike  the  usual  New  Eng- 
land dwellings  of  ancient  days,  with  their  spacious  lawns, 
shaded  by  noble  ehns,  and  adorned  with  shrubbery  ?  Who 
were  the  proprietors  of  these  elegant  seats,  which  arrest 
the  attention  and  charm  the  eye  of  the  passing  traveller  ? 
Who  were  the  original  occupants  of  these  abodes  of  aris- 
tocratic pride  and  wealth,  —  for  such  they  must  have  been, 


140 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


—  and  Avliose  voices  waked  the  eclioes  in  these  lofty  halls  ? 
A  race  of  men  which  has  passed  away  forever !  They  are 
gone.  Their  tombs  are  in  a  distant  land;  even  their 
names  have  passed  from  remembrance  ;  and  nought  re- 
mains to  tell  of  their  sojourn  here  save  these  stately  piles, 
whose  walls  once  echoed  to  the  sound  of  pipe  and  harp, 
and  whose  courts  reverberated  with  the  notes  of  their 
national  anthem. 


■i^ji'Sis 


Prominent  among  these  residences  of  the  royalists  of 
olden  time  is  that  of  Colonel  John  Vassall,  which  became 
in  .luly,  1775,  the  head  quarters  of  General  "Washington; 


CAMBRIDGE.  141 

an  edifice  even  more  elegant  and  spacious  than  its  fellows, 
standing  in  the  midst  of  shrubbery  and  stately  elms,  a 
little  distance  from  the  street,  once  the  highway  from  Har- 
vard University  to  Waltham.  At  this  mansion,  and  at 
Winter  Hill,  Washington  passed  most  of  his  time  after 
taking  command  of  the  continental  army,  until  the  evacu- 
ation of  Boston  in  the  following  spring.  Its  present 
owner  is  Henry  Wadsworth  Longfellow,  widely  known 
in  the  world  of  literature  as  one  of  the  most  gifted  men 
of  the  age.  It  is  a  spot  worthy  of  the  residence  of  an 
American  bard  so  endowed,  for  the  associations  which 
hallow  it  are  linked  with  the  noblest  themes  that  ever 
awakened  the  inspiration  of  a  child  of  song. 

This  mansion  stands  upon  the  upper  of  two  terraces, 
which  are  ascended  each  by  five  stone  steps.  At  each 
front  corner  of  the  house  is  a  lofty  elm,  mere  saplings 
wl^n  Washington  beheld  them,  but  now  stately  and  patri- 
archal in  appearance.  Other  elms,  with  flowers  and  shrub- 
bery, beautify  the  grounds  around  it ;  Avhile  within,  icono- 
clastic innovation  has  not  been  allowed  to  enter  with  its 
mallet  and  trowel,  to  mar  the  work  of  the  ancient  builder, 
and  to  cover  with  the  vulgar  stucco  of  modern  art  the 
carved  cornices  and  panelled  wainscots  that  first  enriched  it. 

A  few  rods  above  the  residence  of  Professor  Longfel- 
low is  the  house  in  which  the  Brunswick  general,  the 
Baron  Riedesel,  and  his  family  were  quartered,  during 


142 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


the  stay  of  the  captive  army  of  Burgoyne  in  the  vicinity 
of  Boston.  Upon  a  window  pane  on  the  north  side  of  the 
house  may  be  seen  the  undoubted  autograph  of  the  accom- 


plished Baroness  Eiedesel.     It  is  an  interesting  memento, 
and  preserved  with  great  care. 

Near  the  westerly  comer  of  the  Common,  upon  "Wash- 
ington Street,  stands  the  Washington  Elm,  one  of  the 
ancient  anakim  of  the  primeval  forest,  older,  probably,  by 
half  a  century  or  more,  than  the  welcome  of  Samoset  to 
the  white  settlers,  and  is  distinguished  by  the  circumstance 
that  beneath  its  broad  shadow  General  Washington  first 


CAMBRIDGE. 


143 


drew  his  sword  as  commander-in-chief  of  the  continental 
army,  on  the  morning  of  July  3d,  1775.  Not  far  from 
here  was  the  spot  where  puhlic  town  meetings  were  held, 
and  also  the  tree  under  which  the  Indian  council  fires 
were  lighted  more  than  two  hundred  years  ago.     When 


1^> 


<'^s^ 


■fC 


the  drum  was  used  in  Cambridge,  instead  of  the  bell,  to 
summon  the  congregation  to  the  place  of  worship,  or 
to  give  warning  of  a  savage  enemy,  the  sound  floated 
throughout  those  trailing  limbs,  that,  could  they  but  speak, 
would  take  a  veteran's  delight  in  telling  of  the  past.  May 
no  unkind  hand  mar  the  last  tree  of  the  native  forest. 


144  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

Though  it  may  have  stood  century  after  century,  like  a 
sentinel  on  duty,  defying  the  lightning  and  the  storm,  still 
let  it  stand,  an  interesting  and  sacred  memorial  of  the 
past  and  the  present,  and  continue  to  be  associated,  for 
many  years  to  come,  Avith  the  history  of  our  country. 
And  let  the  illustrious  name  which  it  bears,  and  which  it 
derives  from  one  of  the  most  important  events  in  the  life 
of  the  father  of  his  country,  preserve  it  to  remind  the 
coming  generations  of  his  invaluable  services  and  labors. 

Mount  Auburn.  —  The  cemetery  of  Mount  Auburn, 
justly  celebrated  as  the  most  interesting  object  of  the  kind 
in  our  country,  is  situated  in  Cambridge  and  Watertown, 
about  four  and  a  half  miles  from  the  city  of  Boston,  and 
one  and  a  quarter  miles  wesf  of  Harvard  University.  It 
includes  upwards  of  one  hundred  acres  of  land,  purchased 
at  different  times  by  the  Massachusetts  Horticultural  Soci- 
ety, extending  from  the  main  road  nearly  to  the  banks  of 
Charles  River.  A  portion  of  the  land  next  to  the  road, 
and  now  under  cultivation,  once  constituted  the  experi- 
mental garden  of  the  society.  A  long  Avatercourse  be- 
tween this  tract  and  the  interior  woodland  formed  a  nat- 
ural boundary,  separating  the  two  sections.  The  inner 
portion,  which  Avas  set  apart  for  the  purposes  of  a  ceme- 
tery, is  coA'ered,  throughout  most  of  its  extent,  with  a 
vigorous  groAvth  of  forest  trees,  many  of  them  of  large 
size,  and  comprising  an  unusual  vai'iety  of  species.     This 


1. 

Road  to  Fresh  Pond. 

14. 

Juniper  Hill. 

2. 

Chapel. 

15. 

Temple  Hill. 

3. 

Spnice  Avenue. 

16. 

Rosemary  Path. 

4. 

Public  Lot. 

17. 

Jasmine  Path. 

5. 

Laurel  Hill. 

18. 

Chestnut  Avenue 

6. 

Walnut  Avenue. 

19. 

Poplar  Avenue. 

7. 

Mountain  Avenue. 

20. 

Meadow  Pond. 

8. 

Mount  Auburn  Tower. 

21. 

Lime  Avenue. 

9. 

Dell  Path. 

22. 

Larch  Avenue. 

10. 

Pine  Hill. 

23. 

Garden  P(md. 

11. 

Central  Square. 

24. 

Forest  Pond. 

12. 

Cedar  Hill. 

25. 

Central  Avenue. 

13. 

Harvard  Hill. 

13 

(145) 

146  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

tract  is  beautifully  undulating  in  its  surface,  containing  a 
number  of  bold  eminences,  steep  acclivities,  and  deep, 
shadowy  valleys.  A  remarkable  natural  ridge,  with  a 
level  surface,  runs  through  the  ground  from  south-east  to 
north-west,  which  was  for  many  years  a  favorite  walk  with 
the  students  of  Harvard.  The  principal  eminence,  called 
Mount  Auburn,  is  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  above 
the  level  of  Charles  River,  and  commands  from  its  sum- 
mit one  of  the  finest  prospects  wliich  can  be  obtained  in 
the  environs  of  Boston.  On  one  side  is  the  city,  in  full 
view,  connected  at  its  extremities  with  Charlestown  and 
Roxbury.  The  serpentine  course  of  Charles  River,  with 
the  cultivated  hills  and  fields  rising  beyond  it,  and  the 
Blue  Hills  of  Milton  in  the  distance,  occupies  another 
portion  of  the  landscape.  On  the  north,  at  a  very  small 
distance,  Fresh  Pond  appears,  a  handsome  sheet  of  water, 
finely  diversified  by  its  woody  and  irregular  shores. 
Country  seats  and  cottages,  in  various  directions,  and 
especially  those  on  the  elevated  land  at  Watertown,  add 
much  to  the  picturesque  effect  of  the  scene.  On  the 
summit  of  this  elevation  a  tower  has  been  erected,  (of 
sufficient  height  to  be  seen  above  the  surrounding  trees,) 
to  subserve  the  triple  purpose  of  a  landmark,  to  identify 
the  spot,  and  for  an  observatory,  commanding  an  uninter- 
rupted view  of  the  suiTounding  landscape  of  cities,  towns, 
hills,  farms,  rivers,  Massachusetts    Bay,  with   its  many 


MOUNT    AUliUKN.  147 

islands  and  shipping.  The  lantern  or  cupola  of  this 
tower  is  at  least  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet  above 
Charles  River. 

The  front  entrance  gate  from  Cambridge  road  is  a 
design  from  an  Egyptian  model,  and  is  masterly  chiselled 
in  granite,  at  a  cost  of  about  ten  thousand  dollars ;  and 
the  cast  iron  picketed  fence  on  that  whole  front  line  was 
erected  at  a  cost  of  about  fifteen  thousand  dollars ;  a 
splendid  chapel  was  completed  within  its  grounds  in  1848, 
at  a  cost  of  about  twenty-five  thousand  dollars. 

Strangers  can  receive  on  application  to  any  trustee,  or 
to  the  secretary,  a  permit  to  enter  the  cemetery  with  a 
carriage  any  day  except  Sundays  and  holidays ;  but  with- 
out a  vehicle,  visitors  are  admitted  without  charge.  The 
following  direct  guide  through  the  cemetery  is  taken  from 
"  Dearborn's  Guide  through  Mount  Auburn,"  a  book  that 
may  be  procured  at  the  entrance. 

"  The  front  line  of  the  cemetery  is  east  to  west ;  and 
Central  Avenue,  fronting  the  gate,  is  from  the  north  to 
the  south.  From  the  gate,  advance  in  front  up  Central 
Avenue,  and  on  the  left,  on  an  elevated  plot,  is  the  monu- 
ment to  Spurzheim,  and  a  little  farther  is  the  metal 
bronzed  statue  of  Bowditch,  in  a  sitting  postm-e ;  then 
turn  to  the  west,  into  Chapel  Avenue,  and  you  see  a 
beautiful  monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  Dr.  Sharp, 
and  also  a  magnificent  temple,  appropriated  to  the  sanctu- 


148  SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 

aiy  services  of  the  grave ;  pass  on  into  Pine  Avenue,  and 
there  are  the  Shaw  and  Dorr  monuments ;  continue  Pine 
Avenue  to  the  north-west,  which  leads  to  Green  Brier  and 
Yari'ow  Paths,  and  there  are  the  monuments  to  Fisher, 
Haughton,  Fessenden,  Channing,  Curtis,  Turner,  Bangs, 
the  sculptured  child  of  Binney,  Doane,  Gossler,  Allen, 
with  numerous  other  pillars  and  obelisks  to  meet  the  eye ; 
after  this  examination,  turn  into  Heliotrope  and  Heath 
Paths,  for  sculpture  of  Gardner's  child,  monument  of  Wil- 
liam Appleton,  and  the  splendid  mausoleum  of  two  fronts 
to  Dr.  Binney ;  Armstrong,  Shattuck's  boy ;  pass  into  Fir 
Avenue  at  the  west,  and  view  the  Magoun  monument  of 
mother  and  daughter ;  then  turn  to  the  south,  where  are 
the  monuments  to  Torrey,  Mrs.  N.  P.  "Willis,  Bates,  Lin- 
coln, Pickens,  and  many  others  ;  pass  through  Fir  Avenue 
to  the  south,  crossing  Spruce  Avenue,  curving  to  the 
south-east,  and  then  turn  to  the  right  hand  into  Walnut 
Avenue,  and  at  the  right  hand  are  Elder,  Pilgrim,  and 
Snowdrop  Paths,  on  a  north-west  line,  and  view  the  ele- 
gantly carved  temples  of  Cotting,  Miles,  Bush,  Foss,  Pen- 
niman,  iShattuck,  Farrar,  Wolcott,  Hartshorn,  and  others ; 
return  to  Walnut  Avenue,  and  pass  through  it,  curving  to 
the  south,  and  view  the  monuments  to  Hicks,  Worcester, 
Watson,  and  others ;  then  turn  to  the  left  into  Mountain 
Avenue,  north-westerly,  and  ascend  Mount  Auburn's  high- 
est mound,  one   hundi"ed  and  twenty-five  feet  above  the 


MOUNT   AUBURN.  149 

River  Charles,  from  whence  Boston  and  the  surrounding 
country  may  be  seen ;  then  descend  Mount  Auburn  on 
the  south-east,  through  Hazel  Path,  curving  round  to  the 
north,  and  view  the  Fuller  monument;  then  pass  on  to 
Harvard  Hill  at  the  north-east ;  here  the  eye  will  greet 
the  mausoleums  to  Andrews,  Kirkland,  Aslimun,  Hoff- 
man, and  officers  of  Harvard  University,  and  also  to  some 
of  the  students ;  descend  into  Rose  Path,  at  the  south- 
west, where  are  monuments  of  Scudder  and  Davis,  encir- 
cling its  base,  to  the  eastwax'd ;  then  turn  to  the  right 
hand  into  Sweet  Brier  Path,  and  continue  to  its  south-east 
termination,  and  there  is  a  mausoleum  to  Coffin ;  then 
turn  to  the  left  hand  into  Chestnut  Avenue,  and  at  its 
junction  with  Hawthorn  Path  is  the  Tremont  Strangers' 
Tomb ;  continue  north-west  through  Hawthorn  Path, 
which  leads  to  Cedar  Hill,  where  are  the  monuments  to 
Hildreth,  Appleton,  and  others;  from  thence  south-west, 
round  Cedar  Hill,  is  Ivy  Path,  which  curves  to  the  north, 
and  at  the  end  of  this  branch,  a  little  to  the  west,  is  Con- 
secration Dell,  where  are  monuments  to  Stanton,  Watts, 
Waterson,  Leverett,  Dana,  &c. ;  leave  Consecration  Dell 
at  its  north-west  corner,  and  pass  into  Vine  Path,  crossing 
Moss  Path  by  the  monument  to  Stearns,  on  to  Central 
Square,  where  are  monuments  to  Hannah  Adams,  Mur- 
ray, and  others ;  at  the  north-west  of  Central  Square  is 
Poplar*  Avenue,  curving  to  the  east;  and  there  maybe 
13* 


150  SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 

seen  mementoes  to  "Warren  Colburn,  Sturgis,  Choate, 
Munson,  Mrs.  Ellis,  and  others ;  then  turn  round  to  the 
left  into  the  eastern  line  of  Willow  Avenue,  curving  round 
into  its  western  line,  and  there  are  obelisks  or  mausoleums 
to  McLellan,  "Wilhams,  Buckingham,  Randall,  Chamber- 
lain, Thayer,  Tuckerman,  IVIrs.  Gannett,  Lowell,  Mason, 
Howard,  and  others  ;  leaving  "Willow  Avenue  at  its  south- 
west corner,  turn  to  the  right  through  Poplar  Avenue  into 
Alder  Path,  to  the  north,  and  see  a  monument  to  "Wet- 
more,  Greenleaf,  and  others ;  pass  into  Narcissus  Path 
northerly,  around  Forest  Pond,  and  view  the  monuments 
to  Story,  Webster,  Oxnard,  Rich,  Durgin,  Faxon,  Win- 
chester, and  others ;  at  the  north  curve  of  Forest  Pond  is 
Catalpa  Path,  on  an  east  line  to  Indian  Ridge  Path,  where 
those  to  Brimmer,  Bond,  Seaver,  Greenleaf,  Patterson, 
Wadsworth,  Francis,  Fearing,  West,  To  my  Mary,  Stack- 
pole,  and  others  are  erected ;  then  return  to  Catalpa  Path 
west,  to  Linden  Path,  near  to  Beach  Avenue,  where  are 
monuments  to  Tappan,  Thaxter,  Raymond,  and  others; 
pass  through  Beach  Avenue  to  the  south,  where  are  the 
monuments  of  Bigelow,  Stone,  Stevens,  Coolidge,  Putnam, 
«S:c. ;  then  turn  round  to  the  right  hand  into  Central  Ave- 
nue, where  are  the  monuments  of  Hamden,  Gibbs,  Phelps, 
T*eck,  Burges,  Abbe,  Clary,  and  the  sculptured  watch  dog 
•*erkins ;  turn  to  the  left  hand  into  Cj'press  Avenue, 
the  Bible  monument   of   Gray  may  be  seen  on 


UNITED  STATES  ARSENAL.  151 

Hibiscus  Path,  and  a  little  south  is  the  Coggswell  monu- 
ment ;  then  turn  to  the  left,  easterly,  and  near  the  centre 
of  Central  Avenue  the  monuments  of  Hewins,  Tisdale, 
Buckminster,  Cleveland,  Lawrence,  Herwig,  and  others ; 
continue  through  Cypress  Avenue,  curving  to  the  south, 
and  there  is  the  public  lot,  with  numerous  shafts  and  me- 
mentoes to  friends,  with  a  singular  horizontal  slab  to  the 
memory  of  M.  W.  B.,  and  a  httle  north-west  of  the  pub- 
lic lot,  on  Eglantine  Path,  is  the  sculptured  figure  of 
Christ  blessing  little  children ;  a  little  to  the  east  of  that 
is  the  Ford  monument.  Faith  with  the  Cross,  and  the 
Fuller  monument.  Return  through  the  south  part  of 
Cypress  Avenue,  where  is  a  monument  to  Samuel  Stoiy, 
Jr.,  on  Lupine  Path;  then  turn  round  to  the  left,  into 
Cedar  Avenue,  leading  to  the  north,  where  are  monuments 
to  Gridley,  Hayward,  Benjamin,  and  others ;  continue  to 
the  right  hand,  through  part  of  Cypress  Avenue,  to  Cen- 
tral Avenue,  passing  the  statue  of  Bowditch,  and  view  the 
monument  to  the  officers  lost  in  the  exploring  expedition, 
and  others,  after  which  a  return  to  the  gate  on  the  north 
may  be  made  direct." 

A  short  distance  from  the  cemetery,  in  Watertown, 
is  the  United  States  Aksenal.  It  stands  on  the  banks 
of  the  Charles  River,  a  short  distance  below  the  village, 
contains  a  large  amount  of  munitions  of  war,  and  covers 
forty  acres  of  ground. 


'ft    1* 


I 


CHAPTER    XVI.    • 

BUNKER    HILL. MONUMENT. NAVY    YAED. STATe's 

PRISON.  —  HARVARD    MONUMENT. 

A  Charlestown  omnibus  can  speedily  set  us  down 
at  the  foot  of  Bunker  Hill,  where  the  pride  of  Britain 
was  once  humbled,  and  her  veteran  sons,  in  promiscuous 
heaps,  bit  the  dust.  On  the  summit  of  this  eminence 
stands  the  renowned  Monument,  towering  to  the  skies, 
silently  saying,  Here  was  the  bloody  conflict  between  the 
oppressor  and  the  oppressed ;  there  floated  the  ships  of 
war  that  vainly  thundered  with  the  engines  of  desolation 
against  the  undaunted  heroes  who,  with  pickaxe  and 
shovel,  upheaved  the  mounds  that  were  to  protect  them 
from  the  enemy. 

Ascending  one  of  the  long  flights  of  granite  steps  to 
the  gravel  walk  that  leads  to  the  monument,  we  approach 
the  highest  spot  of  this  everlasting  hill,  of  everlasting 
remembrance.  Though  once  soaked  with  the  blood  of 
the  slain,  it  is  now  a  beautiful  and  interesting  resort  to 
strangers  and  travellers.     Its  pleasingly  verdant  surface 

(153)  . 


154  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

regularly  descends  every  way  to  a  green  hedge  that  fringes 
its  base,  and  outside  of  a  broad  walk  on  its  four  equal 
sides  is  a  granite  and  iron  fence,  of  elegant  style. 

Bunker  Hill  Monument  rises,  lofty  and  grand,  from 
the  centre  of  the  grounds  included  within  the  breastworks 
of  the  old  redoubt  on  Breed's  Hill.  Its  sides  are  precisely 
parallel  with  those  of  the  redoubt.  It  is  built  of  Quincy 
granite,  and  is  two  hundi'ed  and  twenty-one  feet  in  height. 
The  foundation  is  composed  of  six  courses  of  stone,  and 
extends  twelve  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground  and 
base  of  the  shaft.  The  four  sides  of  the  foundation  ex- 
tend about  fifty  feet  horizontally.  There  are  in  the  whole 
pile  ninety  courses  of  stone,  six  of  them  below  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  eighty-four  above.  The  foundation  is 
laid  in  lime  mortar;  the  other  parts  of  the  structure  in 
lime  mortar  mixed  with  cinders,  iron  fiUngs,  and  Spring- 
field hydraulic  cement.  The  base  of  the  obelisk  is  thirty 
feet  square ;  at  the  spring  of  the  apex,  fifteen  feet.  In- 
side of  the  shaft  is  a  round,  hollow  cone,  the  outside  diam- 
eter of  which  at  the  bottom  is  ten  feet,  and  at  the  top,  six 
feet.  Around  this  inner  shaft  winds  a  spiral  flight  of 
stone  steps,  two  hundred  and  ninety-five  in  number.  In 
both  the  cone  and  shaft  are  numerous  little  apertures 
for  the  purposes  of  ventilation  and  light.  The  observa- 
tory or  chamber  at  the  top  of  the  monument  is  seventeen 
feet  in  height  and  eleven  feet  in  diameter.     It  has  four 


BUNKER    HILL    MONUMENT. 


155 


windows,  one  on  each  side,  which  are  provided  with  iron 
shutters.  The  cap  piece  of  the  apex  is  a  single  stone, 
tliree  feet  six  inches  in  thickness,  and  four  feet  square  at 
its  base.     It  weighs  two  and  a  half  tons. 

The  monument  was  dedicated  on  the  17th  of  June, 
1843.  The  president  of  the  United  States  (Mr.  Tyler) 
and  his  whole  cabinet  were  present,  and  Daniel  Webster 
was  the  orator. 


^t^jtaCK^ist^^- 


Within  the  colossal  obelisk  is  a  beautiful  model  of  Dr. 
Warren's  Monument,  which  was  removed  to  give  place 
to  the  present  one ;  and  a  simple  marble  slab  now  only 


156  SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 

marks  the  spot  where  a  patriot  fell,  as  Hon.  Edward 
Everett  has  beautifully  expressed  it,  "with  a  numerous 
baud  of  kindred  spirits  —  the  gray -haired  veteran,  the 
stripling  in  the  flower  of  youth  —  who  had  stood  side  by 
side  on  that  di'eadful  day,  and  fell  together,  like  the  beaucy 
of  Israel  in  their  high  places."  He  was  buried  where  he 
fell,  but  his  ashes  now  repose  in  "  Forest  Hill  Cemetery." 
In  the  top  of  the  monument  are  two  cannons,  named 
respectively  "  Hancock "  and  "  Adams,"  which  formerly 
belonged  to  the  Ancient  and  Honorable  Artillery  Com- 
pany. The  "Adams"  was  burst  by  them  in  firing  a 
salute.  The  following  is  the  inscription  upon  the  two 
guns : — 

SACRED  TO  LIBERTY. 
This  is  one  of  four  cannons  which  constituted  the  whole  train  of 
field  artillery  possessed  by  the  British  colonies  of  North  America  at  the 
commencement  of  the  war,  on  the  19th  of  April,  1775.  This  cannon 
and  its  fellow,  belonging  to  a  number  of  citizens  of  Boston,  were  used 
in  many  engagements  during  the  war.  The  other  two,  the  property  of 
the  government  of  Massachusetts,  were  taken  by  the  enemy. 

Though  this  monument  was  built  to  commemorate  an 
important  event  anS  a  bloody  battle,  it  is  also  a  most 
lofty  observatory.  The  view  from  the  top,  for  extent, 
variety,  and  beauty,  is  certainly  one  of  the  finest  in  the 
world,  and  worth  a  thousand  miles  of  travel  to  see.  Bos- 
ton, its  harbor,  and  the  beautiful  country  around,  mottled 


GALLERY    OF   NEEDLEWORK   TAPESTRIES.  157 

with  villages,  are  spread  out  like  a  vast  painting,  and  on 
every  side  the  eye  may  rest  upon  localities  of"  great  his- 
torical interest  —  Cambridge,  Roxbury,  Chelsea,  Quincy, 
Medford,  Marblehead,  Dorchester,  and  other  places.  In 
the  far  distance,  on  the  north-west,  rise  the  higher  peaks 
of  the  White  Mountains  of  New  Hampshire ;  and  on  the 
north-east  the  peninsula  of  Nahant  and  the  more  remote 
Cape  Ann  may  be  seen.  Wonders  which  present  science 
and  enterprise  are  developing  and  forming  are  there  ex- 
hibited in  profusion.  At  one  glance  from  this  lofty  obser- 
vatory may  be  seen  several  railroads  and  many  other 
avenues  connecting  the  city  with  the  country ;  and  ships 
from  almost  every  region  of  the  globe  dot  the  waters  of 
the  harbor.  Could  a  tenant  of  the  old  graveyard  on 
Copp's  Hill,  who  lived  a  hundred  years  ago,  when  the 
village  upon  Tri-mountain  was  fitting  out  its  little  armed 
flotillas  against  the  French  in  Acadia,  or  sending  forth  its 
few  vessels  of  trade  along  the  neighboring  coasts,  or  occa- 
sionally to  cross  the  Atlantic,  come  forth  and  stand  beside 
us  a  moment,  what  a  new  and  wonderful  world  would  be 
presented  to  his  vision ! 

The  New  England  Gallery  of  Needlework 
Tapestries  is  situated  at  No.  1  Adams  Street,  and  to 
those  interested  in  needle  painting  it  is  well  vvorthy  of  a 
visit.  Those  who  have  not  seen  for  themselves  would 
hardly  believe  with  what  perfect  success  the  conception 
14 


158 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


of  the  artist  is  transferred  to  canvas  by  the  patient  accu- 
racy of  the  needle.  We  shall  merely  mention  a  few  of 
the  most  striking  paintings,  (for  it  is  hard  to  believe  them 
aught  else.)  They  are,  Surrender  of  Mary,  Queen  of 
Scots,  Defence  of  Queen  Catharine,  The  Resignation  of 
the  Crown  by  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  Little  Eva,  The 
Tribute  Money,  The  Escape  of  King  Edward,  and  so 
many  others  that  it  is  impossible  to  enumerate  them  in 
our  contracted  limits.     Continumg  on  our  way,  we  soon 


reach  the  Charlestovtn  Navy  Yard.    This  naval  depot 
is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  Charles  River,  on  a  point 


CHARLESTO-VVN    NAVY    YARD.  159 

of  land  east  of  the  centre  of  the  city  of  Charlestown,  ex- 
tending along  the  harbor  from  the  mouth  of  the  Charles 
to  the  mouth  of  the  Mystic  River.  This  yard  was  pur- 
chased by  the  United  States,  under  authority  of  an  act  of 
Congress,  in  the  year  1800.  The  State  of  Massachusetts, 
by  an  act  of  the  legislature  of  that  year,  gave  its  assent  to 
the  sale,  under  certain  restrictions.  The  cost  of  the  whole 
purchase,  including  commissions,  was  about  forty  thousand 
dollars.  On  the  side  next  the  town  the  yard  is  protected 
by  a  wall  of  stone  masonry,  sixteen  feet  high ;  on  the 
harbor  side  are  several  wharves  and  a  dry  dock  ;  except 
the  approach  to  these,  a  sea  wall  is  extended  the  whole 
harbor  line.  This  dry  dock  was  authorized  by  the  nine- 
teenth Congress,  commenced  10th  July,  1827,  and  opened 
for  the  reception  of  vessels,  24th  June,  1833.  It  is  built 
of  beautifully-hammered  granite,  in  the  most  workmanlike 
and  substantial  manner ;  is  three  hundred  and  forty-one 
feet  long,  eighty  feet  wide,  and  thirty  feet  deep,  and  cost 
about  six  hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand  dollai'S.  The 
first  vessel  docked  after  its  completion  was  the  frigate 
Constitution.  A  little  farther  off,  on  their  own  element, 
float  the  old  copper  bottoms  with  two  or  three  decks,  and 
with  threatening  broadsides  and  bow  and  stern  chasers 
ready  for  the  work  of  destruction,  but  now  pnssive  as  so 
many  swans. 

There  are  in  this  yard  four  large  ship  houses,  various 


160  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

mechanic  shops,  storehouses,  dwelling  houses  for  the  offi- 
cers, and  marine  barracks,  besides  an  extensive  ropewalk 
of  granite.  This  structure,  the  finest  in  the  country,  is  an 
object  worthy  the  attention  of  strangers,  and  will  give 
some  idea  of  the  vast  amount  of  expenditure  defrayed  for 
public  works  at  this  superb  naval  station.  The  principal 
buildmg  contains  in  the  basement  the  engine  room  and 
boilers ;  the  second  story  contains  the  spinning  machinery ; 
and  tlie  "  walks,"  being  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length, 
occupy  the  ground  floor. 

There  are,  too,  in  the  yard  large  quantities  of  timber 
and  naval  stores,  exceeding  in  value  two  millions  of  dol- 
lars. More  or  less  ships  of  war  are  at  all  times  lying 
here  in  ordinary.  There  is  a  sufficient  depth  of  water  for 
the  largest  ships  of  war  to  lie  afloat,  at  all  times,  at  the 
ends  of  the  wharves.  The  yard  contains  within  the  wall 
about  one  hundred  acres,  and,  independent  of  all  buildings 
and  works,  the  site  would  now  readily  command  more 
than  a  million  of  dollars. 

The  visitor  to  the  navy  yard  will  find  many  objects  of. 
interest  to  claim  a  share  of  his  attention ;  and  in  every 
depai'tment  of  this  great  establishment  there  is  a  uniform 
neatness  and  order,  which  are  always  pleasing,  and  for 
which  this  station  is  inferior  to  none  in  the  world.  Many 
improvements  have  been  made  in  it  within  a  ^cyf  years. 
Its  general  appearance  is  neat  and  fit ;  and  for  all  manu- 


CHARLESTOWN    STATE    PRISON. 


101 


facturing  purposes  connected  with  building  and  equipping 
ships  of  war,  perhaps  no  other  yard  in  the  Union  offers 
so  great  facilities. 

The  Charlestown  State  Prison  is  in  the  form  of 
a  cross,  having  four  wings  united  to  a  central  octagonal 
building,  one  for  the  superintendent  and  his  family,  and 
three  of  them  for  inmates.     The  kitchen  is  in  the  centre 


octagon  building,  in  the  first  story ;  the  supervisor's  room 
is  over  the  kitchen ;  the  chapel  over  the  supervisor's  room  ; 
the  hospital  over  the  chapel ;  and  so  good  is  the  arrange' 
ment,  that  all  areas,  apartments,  windows,  walls,  galleries, 
14* 


162  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

staircases,  fastenings,  external  walls,  and  external  yard 
walls,  except  the  space  outside,  at  the  end  of  the  wings, 
are  under  supervision  from  the  centre.  If  a  prisoner 
breaks  out,  he  only  breaks  in ;  that  is,  if  he  escapes 
from  his  dormitory  into  the  area,  he  has  still  another 
wall  or  grating  to  break,  while  at  the  same  time  he  is  in 
sight. 

The  buildings  being  of  stone,  the  cell  floors  of  stone  or 
iron,  the  galleries  and  staircases  of  iion,  and  the  doors 
and  gratings  of  the  same  material,  render  the  prison 
nearly  fire-proof,  while  the  whole  building  is  ventilated  in 
the  most  thorough  manner,  each  small  room,  dormitory,  or 
cell  being  provided  with  a  ventilator,  starting  from  the 
floor  of  the  same,  m  the  centre  wall,  and  conducted,  sepa- 
rate from  every  other,  to  the  top  of  the  block,  where  it  is 
connected  with  a  ventiduct.  Both  at  the  top  and  bottom 
of  the  room  there  is  a  slide,  or  register,  over  orifices  open- 
ing into  this  ventilator,  which  are  capable  of  being  opened 
or  shut. 

School  rooms,  privilege  rooms,  chapels,  private  rooms 
and  places,  comfortably  large  single  rooms,  are  provided, 
in  which  all  kinds  of  good  instruction  can  be  given.  The 
hospital  is  large,  light,  convenient,  easily  accessible,  well 
warmed,  and  well  ventilated.  The  separate  rooms  are  so 
located  and  distributed,  under  supervision,  from  the  centre 
l)uilding,  that  a  gentle  knock  on  the  inner  side  of  the  door 


HARVARD    MONUMENT.  163 

of  each  separate  lodging  room  can  be  heard  by  the  person 
on  duty  in  the  central  room  for  supervision  and  care,  and 
relief  be  immediately  procured,  if  seized  by  sickness. 

Large  provision  is  made  of  floors  and  space  for  employ- 
ment, under  cover,  with  good  and  sufficient  light,  conven- 
ience, and  supervision.  In  many  old  buildings  there  has 
not  bee'n  employment,  because  there  was  no  place  suitable 
for  it.  This  difficulty  has  received  great  consideration, 
and  every  efibrt  has  been  made  entirely  to  remove  it,  so 
that  all  the  inmates  of  these  buildings  should  be  kept  out 
of  idleness,  which  is  the  mother  of  mischief.  Labor  is 
favorable  to  order,  discipline,  instruction,  reformation, 
health,  and  self-support.  But  there  can  be  but  httle  pro- 
ductive industry  without  a  place  for  it.  A  visit  to  the 
work  rooms,  comprising  the  shoe  making,  whip  making,  cab- 
inet making,  stone  cutting,  blacksmithing,  upholstering,  and 
other  departments,  generally  pleases  the  visitor,  and  calls 
forth  encomiums  for  the  stillness,  order,  and  cleanliness 
observed. 

The  Monument  erected  to  the  memory  of  John  Har- 
vard is  situated  on  the  top  of  the  hill  in  the  old  graveyard 
near  the  state  prison,  in  Charlestown.  It  was  erected  by 
the  subscriptions  of  the  graduates  of  Harvard  University. 
It  is  constructed  of  granite,  in  a  solid  shaft  of  fifteen  feet 
elevation,  and  in  the  simplest  style  of  ancient  art.  On 
the  eastern  face  of  the  shaft  the  name  of  John  Harvard 


164 


SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 


is  inscribed ;  also  on  a  marble  tablet  the  following :  "  On 
the  2Gth  of  September,  A.  D.  1828,  this  stone  was  erected 
by  the  graduates  of  the  university  at  Cambridge,  in  honor 
of  its  founder,  who  died  at  Charlestown  on  the  26th  of 
September,  1 638."  On  the  western  side  of  the  shaft  is  an 
inscription  in  Latin,  of  the  following  purport :  ''  That  one 


who  merits  so  much  from  our  literary  men  should  no 
longer  be  without  a  monument,  however  humble,  the 
graduates  of  the  University  of  Cambridge,  New  England, 
have  erected  this  stone,  nearly  two  hundred  years  after 
his  death,  in  pious  and  perpetual  remembrance  of  Jolm 


HARVARD    MONUMENT.  165 

Harvard."  At  the  erection  of  this  monument,  the  Hon. 
Edward  Everett,  who  is  considered  one  of  the  most  ac- 
complished scholars  educated  at  Harvard  College,  deUv- 
ered  an  appropriate  and  eloquent  address. 


CHAPTER    XVII. 

"VVOODLA^VN    CEMETERY. ROCK    TOWER. NETHER- 
WOOD    POND. CHELSEA. 


V 


WooDLAWN  Cemetery  is  about 
four  miles  north  of  Boston,  and  two 
miles  from  Chelsea.  An  omnibus  for 
Woodlawn  starts  from  Brattle  Street, 
Boston,  every  fair  day  in  summer, 
(Sundays  excepted,)  at  two  o'clock, 
(167) 


168  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

P.  M.  It  returns  from  the  cemetery  at  five  o'clock,  P.  M., 
and  is  at  present  connected  with  the  Chelsea  omnibus. 

The  best  mode  of  reaching  Woodlawn  now  is  to  cross 
over  the  Chelsea  Bridge  or  Chelsea  Ferry,  and  after  con- 
tinuing in  the  main  street  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  to  turn 
off  to  the  left  into  Washington  Avenue,  which  leads 
directly  to  the  cemetery. 

By  this  route  the  visitor  approaches  the  gate  house  by 
Woodlawn  Avenue,  ;^hich  is  a  beautiful  curve,  rising  reg- 
ularly for  a  distance  of  seventeen  hundred  feet,  keeping  a 
width  of  fifty  feet,  with  sides  well  planted,  and  a  jet  or 
fountain  at  its  lower  extremity. 

The  gate  house  is  a  fine  Gothic  building,  fifty-six  feet 
wide,  with  a  high  centre  arch  and  two  side  arches.  A 
lodge  adjoins  it,  and  the  whole  structure  has  been  much 
admired  for  its  dignity  and  grace.  Near  to  it  stands  a 
rustic  well  house,  embowered  in  roses  and  running  vines. 

A  few  steps  inside  the  gate  bring  the  visitor  to  a  small 
triangle,  where  the  avenues  diverge.  Here  stands  the  St. 
Bernard  dog,  the  emblem  of  fidelity  and  affection,  and  by 
his  side  is  the  wonderful  Ginko  tree,  the  form  and  leaf  of 
which  demand  notice. 

On  the  right,  towards  the  hill,  is  now  seen  the  RocIq 
Tower,  of  which  a  view  is  presented  on  the  following  page. 
This  tower  is  constructed  of  rude  boulders,  with  a  spiral 
walk  ascending  easily  to  the  top.     Its  base  is  seventy- 


WOODLAWN    CEMETERY 


1G9 


eight  feet  in  diameter,  and  its  altitude  about  thirty  feet. 
From  its  summit  are  seen  Lynn,  Saugus,  Nabant,  the  sea, 
bay,  and  other  objects  of  interest.  When  covered  with 
lichens,  mosses,  ferns,  woodbmes,  and  ivy,  this  ponderous 


pile  will  be  exceedingly  attractive.     Eventually  it  is   to 
gerve  as  the  base  for  a  high  observatory  of  iron. 

On  the  left  of  Entrance  Avenue  starts  off  the  beautiful 
Netherwood  Avenue,  through  which  every  one  should 
pass,  either  entering  or  returning.  Near  its  junction  with 
Forest  Glade  Avenue,  a  few  feet  from  the  triangle,  turn- 
ing to  the  right,  are  seen  the  receiving  tombs,  remarkable 
1.5 


170  SUBUKBAN   SIGHTS. 

for  their  neatness  and  repose.  Passing  on  towards  the 
north,  the  long  vista  of  Woodside  Avenue  will  appear ; 
and  passing  through  this  elegant  way,  the  approach  to 
Chapel  Hill  is  marked  by  a  beautiful  rustic  arch,  covered 
with  wild  grape  vines,  and  surmounted  by  a  cross  bearing 
on  one  side  the  inscription,  "  I  am  the  true  vine,"  and  on 
the  other,  "  Abide  in  me." 

In  this  vicinity  are  many  beautiful  lots  and  monuments ; 
and  near  the  junction  of  Floral  and  Chapel  Avenues 
another  specimen  of  the  Ginko  tree  is  seen. 

Near  the  entrance  to  Chapel  Hill  is  the  lot  of  John  M. 
Brown,  and  many  others  in  good  taste,  which  we  have  not 
room  to  specify. 

But  one  of  the  most  delightful  scenes  any  where  to  be 
found  is  Netherwood  Pond,  with  its  fine  fountains  and 
beautiful  arbor,  and  the  tall  trees  and  gentle  slopes  which 
surround  it.     The  views  from  Elm  Hill,  also,  are  fine. 

This  cemetery  will  furnish  some  of  the  finest  drives  in 
the  vicinity  of  Boston,  and  is  destined  to  occupy  a  high 
place  among  the  rural  beauties  of  the  country. 

Chelsea  is  one  of  the  pleasantest  of  our  suburban 
towns,  the  streets  being  broad,  and  bordered  with  shade 
trees,  well  lighted  by  gas,  and  lined  with  tasteful  resi- 
dences. Among  the  public  buildings  in  the  town  are  the 
Naval  Hospital  and  the  United  States  Marine 
Hospital.    The  lattei*,  now  in  the  course  of  construction, 


I 


CHELSEA.  171 

will  be  a  noble  and  substantial  building,  affording  that  ac- 
commodation to  patients  which  the  present  hospital  estab- 
lishment is  inadequate  to  supply.  The  Town  House  is  a  fine 
large  building  of  brick.  The  surface  of  Chelsea  is  quite 
undulating,  rising  in  parts  to  a  considerable  elevation. 
The  most  considerable  of  these  eminences  is  Powder  Hora 
Hill,  about  two  miles  from  the  ferry,  from  the  summit  of 
which  magnificent  views  may  be  obtained  of  Boston, 
Charlestown,  Bunker  Hill,  Medford,  Lynn,  Nahant,  and 
Boston  Harbor.  Mount  Bellingham  is  a  lofty  hill,  com- 
manding an  extensive  prospect,  and  is  ah-eady  nearly  cov- 
ered with  elegant  private  residences.  The  attractions  of 
the  place  are  so  great  that  numbers  of  gentlemen  doing 
business  in  Boston  and  elsewhere  make  their  homes  in 
Chelsea. 


CHAPTER    XVIII 

CONCORD.  LEXINGTON.  DORCHESTER     HEIGHTS.  

PERKINS    INSTITUTION    FOR    THE    BLIND. 

Concord  and  Lexington  may  be  easily  reached  from 
the  Fitchburg  depot,  as  Lexington  is  only  eleven  miles 
from  Boston,  and  Concord  six  miles  beyond.  The  vicinity 
of  these  historical  places  to  Boston,  and  tlieii'  accessibility 
by  rail  or  comitry  road,  procure  them  large  numbers  of 
visitors  during  the  pleasant  months  of  the  year.  Boston 
and  its  environs  abound  in  mementoes  of  the  revolution- 
ary dead ;  Bunker  Hill  rises,  a  sanctified  spot  forever ; 
the  heights  are  not  yet  levelled  which  once  bristled  with 
Washington's  cannon,  and  hastened  the  evacuation  of  the 
town  by  the  British ;  and  here  at  Lexington  and  Concord 
is  the  soil  that  drank  the  very  first  blood  of  the  martyrs 
of  liberty  —  a  soil  on  which  the  fii'st  armed  resistance  to 
aggression  was  attempted. 

Lexington  is  a  very  pretty  place,  and  since  the  estab- 
lishment of  the  branch  railroad  connecting  it  Avith  Boston, 
many  of  our  citizens  have  availed  themselves  of  the  op- 
portunity of  residing  in  the  old  historic  town.     Its  area 

(172) 


LEXINGTON.  173 

comprises  a  great  variety  of  scenery,  and  the  soil  is  not 
ungrateful  for  the  care  of  the  husbandman.  The  town  is 
built  principally  on  a  broad  street,  and  in  about  the  centre 
of  it  is  the  green  on  which  the  monument  stands.     It  is 


built  of  granite,  and  has  a  marble  tablet  on  the  south  rront 
of  the  pedestal,  with  the  following  inscription :  — 

Sacred  to  the  Liberty  and  the  Rights  of  Mankind ! ! !  The  Freedom 
and  Independence  of  America  —  sealed  and  defended  '.Tiili  the  blood  of 
her  sons.  This  Monument  is  erected  by  the  Inhabitants  of  Lexington, 
under  the  patronage  and  at  the  expense  of  the  Commonwealth  of  Mas- 
sachusetts, to  the  memory  of  their  Fellow-citizens,  Ensign  Robert  Man- 
15* 


174  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

roe,  Messrs.  Jonas  Parker,  Samuel  Hadley,  Jonathan  Harrington,  jim., 
Isaac  Muzzy,  Caleb  Harrington,  and  John  Brown,  of  Lexington,  and 
Asahel  Porter,  of  Woburn,  who  fell  on  this  Field,  the  first  victims  of 
the  Sword  of  British  Tyranny  and  Oppression,  on  the  morning  of  the 
ever-memorable  Nineteenth  of  April,  An.  Dom.  1775.  The  Die  was 
cast ! !  !  The  blood  of  these  Martyrs  in  the  Cause  of  God  and  their 
Country  was  the  Cement  of  the  Union  of  these  States,  then  Colonies, 
and  gave  the  Spring  to  the  Spirit,  Firmness,  and  Resolution  of  their 
Fellow-citizens.  They  rose  as  one  man  to  revenge  their  Brethren's 
blood,  and  at  the  point  of  the  Sword  to  assert  and  defend  their  native 
Rights.  They  nobly  dared  to  be  Free ! ! !  The  contest  was  long,  bloody, 
and  affecting.  Righteous  Heaven  approved  the  Solemn  Appeal ;  Vic- 
tory crowned  their  Arms,  and  the  Peace,  Liberty,  and  Independence  of 
the  United  States  of  America  was  their  glorious  Reward.  Built  in  the 
year  1799. 

Concord  is  a  pleasant  little  village,  and  lies  upon  th'i 
Concord  River,  one  of  the  chief  tributaries  of  the  Merrj- 
mac,  near  the  junction  of  the  Assabeth  and  Sudbury 
Rivers.  Its  Indian  name  was  Musketaquid.  On  account 
of  the  peaceable  manner  in  which  it  was  obtained,  by 
purchase,  of  the  aborigines,  in  1635,  it  was  named  Con- 
cord. At  the  north  end  of  the  broad  street,  or  common, 
is  the  house  of  Colonel  Daniel  Shattuck,  a  part  of  which, 
built  in  1774,  was  used  as  one  of  the  depositories  of  stores 
when  the  British  invasion  took  place. 

The  Monument  at  Concord  stands  a  short  distance 
from  the  road  leading  into  the  town,  upon  land  given  for 
the  purpose  by  Rev.  Dr.  Ripley.     The  river  runs  at  the 


CONCORD. 


175 


foot  of  the  mound  on  which  it  stands.  It  is  built  of 
Carlisle  granite,  and  the  following  inscription  is  engraved 
on  a  marble  table  mserted  in  the  eastern  face  of  the  ped- 
estal :  — 


.-^^:::i^c~^ 


Here, 

On  the  19th  of  April,  1775, 

was  made  the  first  forcible  resistance  to 

British  Aggression. 

On  the  opposite  bank  stood  the  American 

militia,  and  on  this  spot  the  first  of  the  enemy  fell 

in  the  "War  of  the  Revolution, 

which  gave  Independence  to  these  United  States. 

In  gratitude  to  God,  and  in  the  love  of  Freedom, 

This  Monument  was  erected, 

A.  D.  1836. 


176  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

The  view  is  from  tlie  green  shaded  lane  which  leads 
from  the  highway  to  tlie  monument,  looking  westward. 
The  tAvo  trees,  standing  one  upon  each  side,  without  the 
u-on  railing,  were  saplmgs  at  the  time  of  the  battle ;  be- 
tween them  was  the  entrance  to  the  bridge.  The  monu- 
ment is  reared  upon  a  mound  of  earth,  a  few  yai'ds  from 
the  left  bank  of  the  river.  A  Httle  to  the  left,  two  rough, 
uninscribed  stones  from  the  field  mark  the  graves  of  the 
two  British  soldiers  who  were  killed  and  buried  upon  the 
spot. 

To  reach  South  Boston  from  Boston  we  may  take  an 
omnibus,  and  be  landed  in  a  very  short  time  at  Dorchester 
Heights,  which  Avere  occupied  by  "Washington  and  his  troops 
on  the  night  of  March  4th,  1776,  and  by  ten  o'clock  two 
forts  were  formed,  one  towai'ds  the  city,  and  the  other 
towards  Castle  Island.  Preparations  were  made  for  an 
attack  by  the  British,  and  for  defence  by  the  Americans ; 
but  the  weather  prevented  the  designs  of  the  former,  and, 
they  embarked  for  New  York.  Few  visit  Boston  without 
a  view  of  the  spot  that  once  bristled  with  bayonets,  or  the 
lines  of  the  fortifications  thrown  up  so  speedily  by  the 
Continentals. 

Here,  also,  stands  the  Perh'ns  Institute  for  the  Blind. 
It  is  open  to  the  pubhc  on  the  afternoon  of  the  first  Sat- 
urday in  each  month ;  but  in  order  to  prevent  a  crowd, 
no  persons  are  admitted  without  a  ticket,  which  may  be 


PERKINS   INSTITUTE   FOR   THE   BLIND, 


177 


obtained  gratuitously  at  No.  20  Bromfield  Street.  A  lim- 
ited number  of  strangers,  and  persons  particularly  inter- 
ested, may  be  admitted  any  Saturday  in  the  forenoon  by 
previously  ajjplying  as  above  for  tickets. 

The  pupils  in  the  school  are  taught  reading,  writing, 
arithmetic,  geography,  history,  natural  philosophy,  natural 


iTli    ffl      J       f     ('^       >       F      „ 


^-.^^^s^ 


history,  and  physiology.  They  are  carefully  instructed  in 
the  theory  and  practice  of  vocal  and  instrumental  music. 
Besides  tliis  they  are  taught  some  handicraft  work  by 
which  they  may  eam  their  livelihood.  In  this  institution, 
for  the  first  time  in  the  world's  history,  successful  attempts 


178  SUBUKBAN    SIGHTS. 

were  made  to  break  through  the  double  walls  in  which 
blind  deaf  mutes  are  immured,  and  to  teach  them  a  sys- 
tematic language  for  communion  with  their  fellow-men. 
Laura  Bridgman  and  Oliver  Caswell  are  living  refutations 
of  the  legal  and  popular  maxim  that  those  who  are  born 
both  deaf  and  blind  must  be  necessarily  idiotic.  They  are 
pioneers  in  the  way  out  into  the  light  of  knowledge,  which 
may  be  followed  by  many  others. 

In  1844  a  supplementary  institution  grew  out  of  the 
parent  one,  for  the  employment  in  handicraft  work  of  such 
blind  men  and  women  as  could  not  readily  find  employ- 
ment at  home.  This  establishment  has  been  highly  suc- 
cessful. A  spacious  and  convenient  workshop  has  been 
built  at  South  Boston,  to  which  the  work  men  and  women 
repair  every  day,  and  are  furnished  with  work,  and  paid 
all  they  can  earn. 

The  general  course  and  history  of  the  Perkins  Institu- 
tion has  been  one  of  remarkable  success.  It  has  always 
been  under  the  direction  of  one  person.  It  has  grown 
steadily  in  public  favor,  and  is  the  means  of  extended  use- 
fulness. In  1832  it  was  an  experiment;  it  had  but  six 
pupils ;  it  was  in  debt,  and  was  regarded  as  a  visionary 
enterprise.  In  1833  it  was  taken  under  the  patronage  of 
the  state ;  it  was  patronized  by  the  wealthy,  and  enabled 
to  obtain  a  permanent  local  habitation  and  a  name. 

The  terms  of  admission  are  as  follows :  the  children  of 


PERKINS    INSTITUTE    FOR    THE    BLIND.  179 

citizens  of  Massachusetts  not  absolutely  wealthy,  free; 
others  at  the  rate  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  dollars  a  year, 
which  covers  all  expenses  except  for  clothing.  Applicants 
must  be  under  sixteen  years  of  age.  ■  Adults  are  not 
received  into  the  institution  propei-,  but  they  can  board  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  be  taught  trades  in  the  workshop 
gratuitously.  After  six  months  they  are  put  upon  wages. 
This  department  is  a  self-supporting  one,  but  its  success 
depends  upon  the  sale  of  goods  at  the  depot,  No.  20  Brom- 
field  Street.  Here  may  be  found  the  work  of  the  blind 
—  all  warranted,  and  put  at  the  lowest  market  prices ; 
nothing  being  asked  or  expected  in  the  way  of  charity. 
The  institution  is  not  rich,  except  in  the  confidence  of  the 
pubhc  and  the  patronage  of  the  legislature 


CHAPTER     XIX. 

NAUANT. 


vStranCiER,  if  you  would  visit  one  of  the  most  pleasant 
and  delightful  watering  places  in  the  world,  seat  yourself 
in  the  cars,  be  landed  at  Lynn,  take  passage  in  one  of  the 
stages  that  leave  almost  hourly,  and  when  deposited  in 
Nahant  —  take  your  Guide's  word  for  it — you  will  bless 
your  stars,  and  thank  him.     Here,  isolated  from  the  noiso, 

(180) 


NAHANT.  181 

and  heat,  and  bustle  of  the  city,  you  may  wandei*  by  the 
hour  on  the  rocks,  and  watch  the  liquid  chisel  of  the  sea 
at  its  unwearied  task  upon  the  blue  and  slaty  substance 
of  the  crags.  Atom  by  atom  they  yield  to  the  muscular 
swing  of  the  billows,  worn  and  polished  by  their  frothy 
edges,  —  the  toughest  creation  conquered  by  the  softest, 
and  the  noise  of  this  constant  sculpture  is  the  music  of 
the  world. 

The  rocks  are  torn  into  such  varieties  of  form,  and  the 
beaches  are  so  hard  and  smooth,  that  all  the  beauty  of 
wave  motion  and  the  whole  gamut  of  ocean  eloquence  are 
offered  here  to  the  eye  and  ear.  The  soft  swash  of  the 
lighter  waves  upon  the  sloping  sand ;  the  bellow  of  the 
breakers  that  are  driven  into  the  rifts  and  caverns  where 
the  sunhght  never  strays;  the  gurgle  of  the  waters  as 
they  run  back  from  out  the  cold  chambers  of  darkness ; 
the  dash  of  an  u-regular  roller  upon  the  rough  front  of 
the  battlements ;  the  full,  majestic  bass  of  a  billow  that 
charges  the  rocks  in  plumed  order ;  the  heavy  thump  of 
the  waves  upon  the  foundation  of  the  rocks,  waking  a 
muffled  moan,  as  from  the  earth's  weai-y  heart ;  and  all 
the  splendors  which  the  ocean  offers  to  the  eye  —  the 
scattering  of  creamy  foam  over  the  pebbly  beach,  and  the 
dying  of  its  whiteness  into  the  gloomy  bronze  of  the  dark 
seaweed ;  the  sparkle  of  the  frolicking  froth  in  the  sun  ; 
the  curl  of  the  solemn  rollers,  and  the  bewitching  green 
16 


182  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

of  their  crests,  as  tliey  bend  just  before  they  tumble  in 
music ;  all  the  loveliness  and  majesty  of  the  ocean  are 
displayed  around  the  jagged  and  savage-browed  cliffs  of 
Nahant. 

This  narrow  promontory,  which  runs  out  from  Lynn 
Beach,  is  crowned  with  charming  gardens,  cottages,  and 
villas,  and  rests  like  an  emei'ald  in  its  sparkhng  and  fretted 
framcAvork  of  brilliants.  While  the  rocks  present  every 
variety  of  color,  the  cliffs  are  pierced  by  fissures,  caverns, 
and  grottos  so  numerous  that  the  visitor  stands  in  awe  ; 
and  the  shell-croAvned  beaches  of  shining,  silvery  sand  are 
so  smooth  and  hard  that  they  take  no  impress  of  the 
steed's  hoof  or  the  rolling  Avheel ;  and  as  the  mind  does 
not  seem  capable  of  containing  all,  follow  the  Guide,  and 
view  each  object  separately. 

Turning  to  the  left  of  Nahant  Beach,  over  which  we 
have  just  come,  a  vast  fissure  in  the  cliflT,  forty  feet  in 
depth,  is  seen,  bearing  the  name  of  John's  Peril.  At 
the  distance  of  three  fourths  of  a  mile  from  where  we 


NAHANT. 


183 


stand,  Egg  Rock  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea  to  the  height 
of  eighty-six  feet.  Its  shape  is  oval,  and  on  its  summit 
the  gulls  deposit  their  eggs  in  abundance,  whence  it  takes 
its  name.  Passing  the  Iron  Mine,  (a  huge  black  ledge,) 
we  reach  The  Spouting  Horn.  Here  the  water,  after 
being  driven  through  a  rocky  tunnel  one  hundred  feet  in 
length  into  a  deep  cavern,  is  spouted  forth  in  wild  sheets 
of  foam  and  spray,  while  the  Atlantic's  billows  seem  to 
jar  the  solid  rocks  with  thundering  sound,  and  shake  the 
very  crags  that  dare  to  stay  their  onward  progress.  Pass- 
ing Saunders's  Ledge,  we  reach 


Castle   Rock.     The   battlements,  buttresses,  turrets, 
and  embrasures  of  an  ancient  castle  are  so  faithfully  rep- 


184  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

resented  by  tliis  immense  pile  of  rocks,  that  one  almost 
waits  for  the  warden's  challenge  or  the  trumpet's  blast 
and  expects  to  see  the  square  openings  (so  like  doors  and 
windows)  peopled  with  arriied  men. 

In  Caldron  Cliff  the  water  boils  with  tremendous 
force  and  fury  during  great  storms  ;  and  in  Roaring 
Cavern  the  sound  is  distinctly  heard.  Crossing  Natu- 
ral Bridge,  we  may  see  the  varying  tides  and  jagged 
rocks  full  twenty  feet  below  us,  and  we  reach 


Pulpit  Rock,  a  huge  mass  of  stone  nearly  twenty  feet 
square,  and  rising  full  thirty  feet  above  the  yeasty  billows. 
The  upper  portion  of  the  rock  bears  a  striking  resem- 
blance to  a  pile  of  books,  with  a  seat  opening  in  their 


NAHANT. 


185 


midst ;  but  the  steepness  of  the  crag  renders  the  ascent 
very  difficult,  as  the  road  to  knowledge  always  has  been 
found  to  be. 


Swallows'  Cave  is  a  passage  eight  feet  high,  ten 
wide,  and  seventy-two  feet  in  length,  opening  into  the  sea. 
Formerly  the  swallows  inhabited  this  cave  in  great  num- 
bers, and  built  their  nests  in  the  irregularities  of  the  rocks 
above ;  but  the  multitude  of  visitors  has  frightened  them 
away.  Continuing  on  our  way,  we  reach 
16* 


186 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


Irene's  Grotto,  a  tall  arch,  grotesque  and  beautiful, 
leading  to  a  large  room  in  the  rock,  and  one  of  the  great- 
est curiosities  on  Nahant.  Neai-  by  is  the  Steamboat 
"Wharf,  where  the  trim  Nelly  Baker  lies.  It  were  im- 
possible to  describe  all  objects  worthy  of  notice;  but, 
having  named  the  most  prominent,  we  will  retire  to  the 
Nahant  House,  a  sketch  of  which  forms  the  vignette  to 
this  chapter. 

This  is  probably  the  largest  hotel  in  America ;  the  car- 
peted floors  cover  an  area  of  nearly  four  acres ;  nine 
miles  of  wire  are  required  to  connect  the  bells  with  the 
annunciator;  and  the  wliole  of  this  immense  establish- 
ment is  lighted  with  gas  manufactured  on  the  premises. 
Upon  the  first  floor  are  the  drawing  rooms,  reception  par- 


NAHANT,  187 

lors,  offices,  reading  room,  dining  hall,  and  pi-i\ate  dining 
parlors.  In  the  basement  are  smoking  rooms,  a  children's 
dining  room,  bathing  rooms  for  hot  baths,  an  immense 
laundry,  and  a  culinary  department  ample  enough  to  pro- 
vide for  an  army.  The  whole  establishment  —  billiard 
house,  bowling  alleys,  shooting  gallery,  stables,  yachts, 
&c.  —  has  been  completed  under  the  immediate  supervis- 
ion of  Colonel  Paran  Stevens,  of  the  Revere  and  Tre- 
mont  Houses,  associated  with  Mr.  James  E.  P.  Stevens, 
who  have  furnished  it  throughout  with  a  liberal  eye  to 
genuine  comfort,  and  with  every  convenience  and  elegance 
that  experience  can  suggest  or  that  money  can  purchase. 

A  line  of  telegraph  has  been  constructed  for  the  accom- 
modation of  guests,  and  arrangements  are  made  to  place 
all  items  of  news  upon  the  hotel  bulletin,  in  advance  even 
of  appearing  in  the  Boston  papers. 

Sailing  parties  and  chowder  picnics  are  furnished  with 
first  class  yachts,  thoroughly  manned ;  and  haddock,  cod- 
fish, mackerel,  tautog,  and  halibut  are  caught  in  abundance 
within  a  short  distance  of  the  shore ;  and  when,  tired  with 
the  day's  sport,  we  return,  sweet  music  from  the  Germania 
Band  soon  drives  dull  care  away,  or  we  may  seek  enjoy- 
ment in  the  concerts,  hops,  and  theatricals  that  follow 
each  other  in   gay  succession.  ^ 

Although  retired  from  the  bustle  of  the  world,  steam  so 
annihilates  distance  that  parties  can  leave  New  York  or 
Saratoga  after  breakfast  and  sup  at  Nahant. 


188  SUBUEBAN    SIGHTS. 

We  cannot  better  finish  our  description  of  this  match- 
less watering  place  than  by  the  following,  from  the  pen  of 
Alonzo  Lewis,  of  Lynn,  a  gentleman  well  known  to  the 
literary  world. 

"  The  temperature  of  Nahant,  being  moderated  by  sea 
breezes,  so  as  to  be  cooler  in  summer  and  milder  in  winter 
than  the  main  land,  is  regarded  as  being  highly  conducive 
to  health.  It  is  delightful  in  summer  to  ramble  round 
this  romantic  peninsula,  and  to  examine  at  leisure  its  in- 
teresting curiosities  —  to  hear  the  waves  rippling  the  col- 
ored pebbles  of  the  beaches,  and  see  them  gliding  over 
the  projecting  ledges  in  fanciful  cascades  —  to  behold  the 
plovers  and  sandpipers  running  along  the  beaches,  the 
seal  slumbering  upon  the  outer  rocks,  the  white  gulls  soar- 
ing overhead,  the  porpoises  pursuing  their  rude  gambols 
along  the  shore,  and  the  curlew,  the  loon,  the  black  duck, 
and  the  coot,  the  brant,  with  his  dappled  neck,  and  the 
oldwife,  with  her  strange,  wild,  vocal  melody,  swimming 
gracefully  in  the  coves,  and  rising  and  sinking  with  the 
swell  of  the  tide.  The  moonlight  evenings  here  are  ex- 
ceedingly lovely ;  and  the  phosphoric  radiance  of  the  bil- 
lows, on  favorable  nights,  (making  the  Avaters  look  like  a 
sea  of  fire,)  exhibits  a  scene  of  wonderful  beauty. 

"  But,  ho^'ever  delightful  Nahant  may  appear  in  sum- 
mer, it  is  surpassed  by  the  gi-andeur  and  sublimity  of  a 
winter  storm.  ^Vlien  the  strong  east  wind  has  swept  over 
the  Atlantic  for  several  days,  and  the  billows,  wrought  up 


NAHANT.  189 

to  fur  J,  are  foaming  along  like  living  mountains  —  break- 
ing upon  the  precipitous  cliffs  —  dashing  into  the  rough 
gorges  —  thundering  in  the  subterranean  caverns  of  rocks, 
and  throwing  the  white  foam  and  spray,  Uke  vast  columns 
of  smoke,  hundreds  of  feet  in  the  air,  above  the  tallest 
clifts  —  an  appearance  is  presented  which  the  wildest 
imagination  cannot  surpass.  Then  the  ocean  —  checked 
m  its  headlong  career  by  a  simple  bar  of  sand  —  as  if 
mad  with  its  detention,  roars  like  protracted  thunder ;  and 
the  wild  sea  bii-ds,  borne  along  by  the  furious  waters,  are 
dashed  to  death  against  the  cliffs.  Standing  at  such  an 
hour  upon  the  rocks,  I  have  seen  the  waves  bend  bars  of 
iron  an  inch  in  diameter  double,  float  rocks  of  granite  six- 
teen feet  in  length,  as  if  they  were  timbers  of  wood,  and 
the  wind,  seizing  the  white  gull  in  its  irresistible  embrace, 
bear  her,  shrieking,  many  miles  into  Lynn  woods.  In 
summer  a  day  at  Nahant  is  dehghtful ;  and  a  storm  in 
winter  is  glorious,  but  terrible." 


CHAPTER    XX 

BOSTON    HARBOR. ISLANDS. FARM    SCHOOL. ALMS- 
HOUSE.—  FORT  INDEPENDENCE. FORT  WINTHROP. 


The  readiest  way  of  regaining  the  city  is  to  take  pas- 
sage on  board  that  trim  little  steamer,  the  "  Nelly  Baker." 
The  trip  occupies  only  about  forty  minutes,  and  is  one  of 

(190) 


ISLANDS   IN   BOSTON   HARBOR. FARM   SCHOOL.      191 

the  most  delightful  that  can  be  imagined.  Shooting  off 
from  the  rocky  penuisula,  and  leaving  behind  Nahant, 
with  its  enchanting  associations,  we  have  time,  as  the  little 
steamer  goes  puffing  along,  to  see  the  Islands  in  Boston 
Harbor  ;  and  if  there  are  natural  beauties,  romantic  ele- 
vations, or  silent  and  wild  retreats  m  the  vicinity  of  Bos- 
ton, they  are  in  the  harbor.  These  islands  are  gradually 
wearing  away ;  and  where  lai-ge  herds  of  cattle  once  fed, 
the  ocean  now  rolls  its  angry  billows,  and  lashes  with  an 
overwhelming  surge  the  last  remains  of  earth. 

"VVe  can  see  the  Lower  Light,  or,  farther  off,  the  smoke 
rising  from  HulL  Nearer  by,  George's  Island,  with  com- 
manding Fort  Warren  upon  it,  ready  to  annihilate  any 
intruder ;  (this  island  is  the  key  to  the  harbor,  command- 
ing the  open  sea,  and  I'ising  in  some  places  nearly  fifty 
feet  above  high  water  mark  ;)  and  the  rocks  of  Nix's  Mate 
may  be  seen,  where  tradition  says  a  captain  was  murdered 
by  his  mate,  and  buried.  The  Lighthouse  and  the  splen- 
did hotel,  large  and  accommodating,  in  the  form  of  a 
Gi-eek  cross,  and  with  Colonel  Mitchell  as  one  of  its  pro- 
prietors, (whose  benevolent  and  gentlemanly  countenance 
smiles  a  welcome  to  all,)  show  plamly  on  Long  Island. 
In  the  rear  is  Rainsford  Island  and  the  Quarantine 
Ground.  Not  far  off  are  Spectacle  and  TJiompson's 
Islands.  On  the  latter  is  situated  the  Farm  School. 
The  objects  of  the  institution  ai-e,  to  rescue  from  the  ills 


192  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

and  tlie  temptations  of  jjoverty  and  neglect  those  who 
have  been  left  without  a  parent's  care ;  to  reclaim  from 
moral  exposure  those  who  ai-e  treading  the  paths  of  dan- 
ger ;  and  to  offer  to  those  whose  only  training  would 
otherwise  have  been  in  the  walks  of  vice,  if  not  of  crime, 
the  greatest  blessing  which  New  England  can  bestow  upon 
her  most  favored  sons.  The  occupations  and  employments 
of  the  boys  vary  with  the  season.  In  spring,  summer, 
and  autumn,  the  larger  boys  work  upon  the  garden  and 
farm.  The  younger  boys  have  small  gardens  of  their  own, 
which  afford  them  recreation  when  released  from  school. 
In  the  winter  season  most  of  them  attend  school,  where 
they  are  instructed  m  the  learning  usually  taught  in  our 
common  schools,  and  some  of  them  are  employed  in 
making  and  mending  clothes  and  shoes  for  the  institution. 
The  winter  evenings  are  occupied  with  the  study  of  geog- 
raphy and  the  use  of  globes,  botany  and  practical  agri- 
culture, lecturing  on  different  subjects,  singing,  and  reading. 
Every  boy  in  the  institution  is  required  to  be  present 
during  the  evening  exercises,  if  he  is  able.  At  the  age 
of  twenty-one  each  boy  is  entitled  to  a  suit  of  clothes,  and 
if  apprenticed  to  a  farmer,  to  one  hundred  dollars  in  money 
in  addition.  The  boys  are  all  comfortably  clad  with  avooI- 
len  clothes,  shoes,  stockings,  and  caps,  and  appear  to  be 
as  happy  in  their  present  situation  as  boys  generally  are 
under  the  paternal  roof.     They  are  well   supplied  with 


ALMSHOUSE.  193 

books,  and  required  to  keep  them  in  order,  their  library 
containing  about  four  hundred  volumes  of  well-selected 
books.  Opportunities  are  occasionally  offered  to  tlie 
friends  of  boys  at  the  institution  of  visiting  them  on  the 
island  in  the  summer  months. 

On  the  long  promontory  in  the  rear  is  Squantum,  the 
very  name  of  which  is  sufficient  to  conjure  up  ideas  of 
chowders,  fishing  parties,  &c. 

We  shoot  past  Deer  Island,  on  which  stands  the  Alms- 
house. The  form  of  this  structure  is  that  of  a  "  Latin 
cross,"  having  its  four  wdngs  radiating  at  right  angles  from 
a  "  central  building."  The  central  building  is  four  stories 
high ;  the  lower  story  (on  a  uniform  level  with  the  cellars 
or  work  rooms  of  the  north,  east,  and  west  wings)  contains 
the  bathing  rooms,  cleansing  rooms,  furnace,  and  fuel 
rooms ;  the  two  next  stories  contain  the  general  guard 
room,  to  be  used  also  as  a  work  room ;  the  next  story  is 
the  chapel ;  and  the  upper  story  is  the  hospital.  The 
south  wing  is  four  stories  high ;  the  lower  one  contains  the 
family  kitchens  and  entry  of  the  superintendent's  family ; 
the  second  is  appropriated  for  the  family  parlors  of  the 
superintendent,  and  a  room  for  the  use  of  the  directors, 
together  with  the  entrances  and  staircases,  and  the  opening 
or  carriage  way  for  receiving  the  paupers.  The  staircases 
communicating  with  the  guard  room,  and  w'lih.  the  cleans- 
ing rooms  in  the  low^er  story  of  the  central  building,  are 
17 


194  SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 

also  located  in  this  story.  The  two  remaining  stories 
are  used  for  the  family  sleeping  rooms,  superintendent's 
office,  officers'  rooms,  and  bathing  rooms,  together  with  the 
entries,  passages,  closets,  and  staircases.  Each  of  the 
north,  east,  and  west  wings  is  three  stories  high,  with  base- 
ments and  attics  over  the  whole  surface  of  each  Aving. 
The  basements  are  for  work  rooms.  The  remaining 
stories,  including  the  attics,  contain  the  wards,  hospitals, 
and  day  rooms  for  the  inmates,  together  with  the  sleeping 
and  inspection  rooms  for  the  nurses  and  attendants. 
There  is  a  chapel,  with  a  gallery,  occupying  seventy-five 
by  seA'enty-five  feet,  on  the  third  floor  of  the  central  build- 
ing, equal  in  height  to  two  stories.  The  floor  of  the 
chapel  is  on  a  level  with  the  attic  floors  of  the  wings.  It 
is  well  lighted,  in  a  central  position,  of  convenient  access 
from  all  parts  of  the  establishment,  and  is  commodious 
enough  for  those  who  are  able  to  attend  religious  wor- 
ship, out  of  even  a  larger  population  than  twelve  hundred. 

The  paupers,  as  they  arrive,  are  received  at  a  centi'al 
point,  under  the  eye  of  the  superintendent,  in  his  office,  as 
they  approach ;  thoi'oughly  cleaned,  if  necessary,  in  the 
basement  central  apartments  for  cleansing;  and  distrib- 
uted, when  prepared  for  distribution,  to  those  parts  of  the 
building  assigned  to  thfe  classes  to  which  they  belong. 

As  the  channel  narrows,  we  pass  between  Castle  and 
Winthrop  Islands.     On   the  former  stands   Fort  Ixdi:- 


FORT   INDEPENDENCE.  195 

PENDENCE.  The  following  is  the  quaint  description  of 
the  Castle  as  it  was  first  built:  "The  Castle  is  built  on  the 
North-East  of  the  Island,  upon  a  rising  hill,  very  advan- 
tageous to  make  many  shots  at  such  ships  as  shall  offer  to 
enter  the  Harbor,  without  their  good  leave  and  likin"-; 
the  Commander  of  it  is  one  Captain  Davenport,  a  man 
approved  for  his  faithfulness,  courage,  and  skill,  the  Mas- 
ter Canoneer  is  an  active  Ingineer ;  also  this  Castle  hath 
cost  about  four  thousand  pounds,  yet  are  not  this  poor  pil- 
grim people  weary  of  maintaining  it  in  good  repair ;  it  is 
of  very  good  use  to  awe  any  insolent  persons,  that  putting 
confidence  in  their  ships  and  sails,  shall  offer  any  injury  to 
the  people,  or  contemn  their  Government ;  and  they  have 
certain  signals  of  alarums,  which  suddenly  spread  through 
the  whole  country."  By  these  alarums  is  meant  the  can- 
non and  beacon  light  upon  the.gi'eat  natural  pinnacle  of 
Beacon  Hill. 

It  was  afterwards  rebuilt  with  pine  trees  and  earth.  In 
a  short  time  this  also  became  useless,  and  a  small  castle 
was  built,  with  brick  walls,  and  had  three  rooms  in  it ;  a 
dwelling  room,  a  lodging  room  over  it,  and  a  gun  room 
over  that.  The  erection  of  this  castle  gave  rise  to  the 
present  name  of  the  island.  At  one  time  there  was  like- 
wise a  strong  building  erected  on  the  island  for  the  recep- 
tion of  convicts  whose  crimes  deserved  the  gallows,  but 
by  the  lenity  of  the  government  had  their  punishment 


196 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


changed.  Here  abode  the  celebrated  Stephen  Burroughs. 
This  island  belongs  to  the  United  States,  by  which  Fort 
Independence  has  been  erected  on  the  castle  ruins. 


On  the  west  side  of  the  wall  a  tombstone  stands,  beneath 
which  sleeps  the  good  old  Edward  Purslej,  whose  spirit, 


FORT   WINTHROP.  Iij7 

we  trust,  has  spent  nearly  a  century  in  heaven.  There  is 
likewise  an  ancient  slab,  small,  of  red  sandstone,  bearing 
the  name  of  Nathaniel  Ely,  but  no  date,  and,  sti-anger  to 
relate,  no  epitaph !  But  turning  the  western  flank  of  a 
battery  that  fronts  on  the  channel  towards  the  city,  we  be- 
hold a  different  monument,  each  of  whose  four  faces  bears 
an  inscription.  Here,  the  name  —  an  officer  of  U.  S. 
Light  Artillery ;  there,  that  the  stone  is  erected  by  the 
officers  of  his  regiment;  on  the  third  side,  that  he  fell 
near  the  spot ;  and  on  the  fourth,  the  distich  from  Collins's 
beautiful  ode :  — 

"  Here  Honor  comes,  a  pilgrim  gray, 
To  deck  the  turf  that  wraps  his  clay." 

Here  we  may  observe  the  wonderful  beauty  of  the  har- 
bor, Avith  its  cities  on  land,  and  its  steeple-pointed  ship- 
ping, in  the  midst  of  which  sit  so  lovely  the  flocks  of 
graceful  and  motionless  islands. 

Governor''s  Island  lies  about  one  mile  north  of  Castle 
Island,  and  was  first  called  Conant's  Island.  It  was  de- 
mised to  Governor  Winthrop  in  1G32,  and  for  many  years 
after  was  called  the  Governor's  Garden.  Here  the  United 
States  government  is  building  a  fortress  called  Fort  Win- 
throp. Its  situation  is  very  cornmandmg,  and  in  some 
respects  superior  to  Castle  Island. 

It  is  a  pleasing  occupation,  as  we  glide  along,  to  watch 
17* 


198 


SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 


the  outward-bound  vessels,  their  canvas  first  becoming 
dim  as  they  tend  towards  the  distant  horizon,  and  finally 
blotted  out  in  the  misty  obscurity  of  the  sea  distance. 
The  imagination  loves  to  follow  them  in  their  flight,  and 
picture  their  adventures  on  that  vast  watery  exjjanse 
whose  daily  history  is  full  of  marvel,  and  whose  dark 
depths  shroud  mysteries  never  to  be  unfolded  to  mortal 
ken. 

Few  visitors,  after  landing  at  Liverpool  "Wharf,  (once, 
under  the  title  of  "  Griffin's  Wharf,"  so  celebrated  for  the 
waste  of  English  tea  that  occurred  there,)  do  not  cherish 
the  most  pleasing  reminiscences  of  their  visit  to  Nahant 
and  sail  up  Boston  Harbor. 


CHAPTER    XXI. 

BLACKSTONE  SQUARE. FRANKLIN  SQUARE. WILLIAMS 

MARKET. FOREST    HILLS    CEMETERY. 

Forest  Hills  Cemetery  is  situated  between  Norfolk 
and  Bristol  Turnpike,  "Walk  Hill,  Canterbury,  and  Scar- 
borough Streets,  in  Roxbury.  It  may  be  reached  from 
the  Providence  Depot,  or  by  omnibus  ;  but  it  will  be  found 
more  pleasing  to  go  by  omnibus,  and  return  in  the  cars. 
As  the  omnibus  rolls  along,  we  can  catch  a  hasty  view 
of  Williams  Market,  of  the  higfi  stone  walls  of  the  Ceme- 
tery, and  of  BlacJcstoiie  and  Franklin  Squares. 

The  former  (Blackstone  Square)  on  the  west  side  of 
Washington  Street,  beyond  No.  773,  containing  one  hun- 
dred and  five  thousand  feet  of  land,  and  now  laid  out 
with  young  trees,  is  an  ornament  to  this  portion  of 
the  city.  The  fence  is  constructed  of  iron,  and  has  a 
length  of  thirteen  hundred  feet,  the  cost  of  which  was  five 
thousand  dollars.  Of  tliis  sum,  two  thousand  dollars  were 
contributed  by  the   property  holders  or  residents  around 

the  square. 

(199) 


200 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


Franklin  Square  is  opposite  Blackstone  Square,  and 
contains  the  same  quantity  of  ground,  and  is  improved  in 
the  same  style  as  the  former.  A  Cochituate  fountain  is 
provided  in  the  centre  of  each  square,  at  a  cost  of  seven 


hundred  and  fifty  dollars  each,  exclusive  of  the  pipe  and 


A  hasty  glance  is  all  we  catch  of  fine  dwellings  and 
beautiful  gardens,  as  we  pass  rapidly  through  Roxbury. 
But  at  length  we  arrive  at  the  Cemetery,  the  description 
of  which  (by  permission  of  Mr.  Crafts)  we  are  allowed  to 
borrow  from  "  The  Guide  to  Forest  Hills,"  of  which  he  is 
the  author. 


FOREST    HITXS    CEMETERY.  201 

The  approaches  to  Forest  Hills  from  all  sides  are 
through  pleasant  and  quiet  roads,  by  well-cultivated  lands, 
dehghtful  rural  residences,  or  by  the  wilder  beauties  of 
unadorned  nature.  In  the  season  of  verdure  and  flowers, 
few  more  agreeable  drives  can  be  found  in  the  vicinity  of 
Boston  than  through  the  streets  and  avenues  that  lead  to 
the  cemetery.  There  are  beautiful  views  in  every  du'ec- 
tion  from  the  elevated  grounds,  and  in  the  valleys  or  the 
woods  many  a  nook  may  be  observed  where  cottages  may 
nestle,  while  all  around  are  springing  up  elegant  villas, 
and  pleasant  grounds  mark  the  progress  of  taste  and 
refinement.  But  from  no  du-ection  is  the  cemetery  notice- 
able at  any  distance,  except  perhaps  on  the  south-eastern 
side.  It  is  shut  out  from  the  world,  a  cahn  retreat,  though 
near  the  rapid  tide  of  life. 

The  main  entrance  to  the  cemetery  is  reached  from  the 
highway,  Scarborough  Street,  by  a  broad  avenue,  which 
curves  up  a  gentle  ascent,  till  it  reaches  the  gateway.  As 
it  approaches  the  gateway,  this  avenue  is  divided  by  a 
gi-oup  of  trees,  but  unites  again  directly  in  front  of  the 
entrance.  The  gateway  at  tliis  entrance  is  of  somewhat 
imposing  dimensions,  the  whole  structure  having  a  front 
of  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet.  The  carriage  way  is 
through  an  Egyptian  portico,  copied  from  an  ancient  por- 
tico at  Garsery,  on  the  Upper  Nile.  On  each  side,  a  lit- 
tle removed,  are  smaller  gates  for  pedestrians,  and  near 


f^ 


*      t^is 


FOREST    HILLS    CEMETERY.  203 

these  are  small  lodges  corresponding  with  the  gateway  in 
style. 

Upon  the  outer  architrave  of  the  gateway  are  inscribed, 
in  golden  letters,  the  words, — 

"  THOUGH   I   WALK  THROUGH  THE  VALLEY   OF  THE  SHADOW  OP  DEATH 
I  WILL   FEAR  NO   EVIL." 

On  the  interior  architrave,  in  the  same  kind  of  letters,  are 
the  words,  — 

"I  AM   THE   RESURRECTION   AND  THE   LIFE." 

Consecrated  June  28, 1848. 

The  gateway  and  lodges  are  built  of  wood,  painted  and 
sanded  in  imitation  of  Jersey  sandstone. 

There  are  other  entrances  on  the  southern  and  eastern 
sides  of  the  cemetery.  On  the  southern  side  the  cemetery 
grounds  do  not  extend  to  any  public  street,  but  an  avenue 
thirty-three  feet  wide  is  laid  out  from  Walk  Hill  Street  to 
the  boundary  of  the  cemetery,  where  there  is  an  entrance 
through  a  gate  supported  by  Egyptian  piers.  This  avenue 
is  shaded  on  each  side  by  thickly-growing  evergreens,  and 
from  it  the  visitor  enters  at  once  upon  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  parts  of  the  cemetery. 

From  the  main  entrance  three  avenues  diverge  towards 
different  parts  of  the  cemetery,  that  on  the  right,  howe^"er, 
being  designed  to  open  into  lands  which  have  not  yet  been 


204 


SUBURBAN   SIGHTS. 


atlded  to  the  grounds.  Chestnut  Avenue,  which  leads  to 
the  left,  passes  over  a  gentle  elevation,  and  thence  through 
the  vale  of  Lake  Dell  towards  Consecration  Hill.  On  the 
right  hand  of  this  avenue,  before  reaching  Lake  Dell, 


/'^^^, 


rises  a  rocky  eminence,  called  Snoivjlalce  Cliff,  from  a 
beautiful  wild  plant  which  gi'ows  at  its  base.  From  the 
summit  of  this  rock  there  is  a  beautiful  view  of  the  village 


FOREST    HILLS    CEMKTEKV.  20i) 

9 

of  Jamaica  Plain,  and  of  the  wooded  hills  of  Brookline 
and  the  country  beyond. 

Lake  Dell  is  a  natural  pool,  tliickly  overshadowed  by 
trees  which  grow  from  its  banks.  On  either  side  an  a\e- 
nue  is  laid  out,  and  from  these  the  wooded  hills  rise,  en- 
closing a  most  quiet  and  beautiful  dell,  suggesting  the 
name  of  the  pond. 

From  the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Dell,  Magnolia  Avenue 
leads  to  the  summit  of  Consecration  Hill,  which  rises  in 
an  angle  of  the  cemetery,  and  touches  its  northern  and 
eastern  boundaries.  As  its  name  indicates,  the  consecra- 
tion services  were  performed  here,  at  the  foot  of  its  south- 
ern slope,  while  the  audience  which  was  gathered  there  on 
that  day  were  ranged  upon  the  hill  side.  Consecration 
Hill  is  one  of  the  highest  of  the  Poorest  Hills,  and  from 
its  summit  is  a  beautiful  prospect.  Through  the  vistas  of 
the  trees  there  are  charming  views  of  the  Blue  Hills  and 
the  intervening  valley,  and  in  other  directions  of  hills  and 
plains,  of  farm  houses,  villas,  and  cottages,  with  here  and 
there  a  church  spire  rising  above  the  distant  woods. 

Following  Rock  Maple  Avenue,  the  visitor  is  led  from 
the  eastern  end  of  Lake  Dell  around  the  base  of  Mount 
Warren,  which  rises  on  the  right,  for  the  most  part  regu- 
larly but  steeply,  with  here  and  there  large  boulders  pro- 
truding above  the  surface.  The  side  of  Mount  Warren  is 
clothed  with  a  thick  growth  of  wood,  and  this  avenue,  in 
18 


206 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


the  afternoon  especially,  lies  in  deep  shadow  under  the 
foliage.  Curving  around  the  foot  of  the  hill,  it  is  a  pleas- 
ant approach  to  some  of  the  more  attractive  spots  in  the 


''I 


i!^&V= 


cemetery,  and  leads  directly  to  the  pleasant  dell  at  the  foot 
of  Mount  Dearborn  and  Fountain  Hill.  *  In  this  dell  there 
is  a  little  nook,  which  seems  almost  a  grotto  under  the 


FOKEST    HILLS    CEMETERY.  207 

overhanging  foliage  of  trees  and  shrubs  that  grow  on  the 
precipitous  sides  of  Fountain  Hill.  The  deep  shadows 
seem  to  spread  a  refreshing  coolness  around,  and  invite 
one  to  rest  on  the  garden  seats,  which  are  disposed  on  one 
side,  while  on  the  other  is  a  rustic  fountain  —  a  natural 
spring,  over  which  is  erected  a  covering  of  rough  stones. 
The  stones  are  clothed  with  lichens,  and  in  the  interstices 
are  planted  moss,  brakes,  and  other  wild  plants,  the  Avhole 
forming  a  pretty  rustic  monument.  On  the  upjier  stone  is 
fixed  a  bronze  plate  bearing  the  following  words :  — 

"  WHOSOEVER  DRIXKETH    OF    THIS   WATER  WILL    THIRST    AGAIN  :     BUT 

THE  WATER  THAT  I   SHALL   GIVE  WILL   BE   IN   HIM   A  WELL    OF 

WATER  SPRINGING   UP   INTO   E-\'ERLASTING   LIFE." 

From  this  vicinity  two  avenues  lead  up,  through  natural 
depressions,  to  the  higher  plain  of  the  cemetery,  one  on 
each  side  of  Mount  Dearborn.  The  eastern  side  of  this 
hill  is  very  rough  and  precipitous,  huge  boulders  being 
piled  one  above  another,  in  fantastic  shapes,  clothed  with 
shrubbery  which  grows  in  the  fissures  of  the  stones,  and 
shaded  by  trees  which  have  found  root  beneath  them. 

From  the  Fountain  Dell  a  steep  path  leads  up  the 
southern  side  of  Mount  Dearborn,  and  then  up  its  more 
gentle  western  slope  to  the  top.  As  seen  from  the  plain 
on  the  west  of  the  hill,  it  appears  to  be  only  a  slight  ele- 
vation, but  it  rises  to  a  considerable  height  above  the  low 


208 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


land  on  the  opposite  side.  On  the  summit  is  the  monu- 
ment erected  by  his  friends  and  fellow-citizens  as  a  tribute 
to  the  memoiy  of  General  Dearborn.     The  prospect  from 


this  hill  is  not  very  extensive,  but  ghmpses  may  be  had  of 
some  of  the  most  fiuished  and  beautiful  portions  of  the 
cemetery. 


FOIiEST    HILLS    CEMETERY.  209 

From  the  dell  which  divides  Mount  Dearborn  from 
Mount  Warren  an  avenue  leads,  by  a  somewhat  steep 
ascent,  to  the  top  of  the  latter,  which  is,  in  fact,  rather 
table  land  than  a  hill.  The  prospect  from  Mount  Warren 
is  more  hmited  than  that  from  some  of  the  other  hills, 
owing  to  the  growth  of  the  trees  which  skirt  its  sides. 
But  here  and  there,  through  the  trees,  a  distant  picture 
of  rural  scenery  may  be  seen,  or  a  nearer  one  of  some 
beautiful  spot  in  the  cemetery,  with  the  mai'ble  monuments 
gleaming  among  the  foliage  and  flowers. 

The  burial  lot  of  the  Warren  family  is  on  the  summit 
of  Mount  Warren.  The  ashes  of  General  Warren,  with 
others  of  the  family,  have  recently  been  taken  from  their 
original  resting  place,  deposited  in  urns,  and  reinterred  in 
this  lot ;  so  that  these  grounds  are  in  fact  the  shrine  which 
contains  his  sacred  remains. 

The  Eliot  Hills,  which  take  their  name  from  the  apostle 
Eliot,  are  four  eminences  in  the  south-western  part  of  the 
cemetery ;  or,  more  correctly,  there  is  but  one  hill,  having 
several  small  ridges  or  undulations  near  its  summit.  The 
summit  of  this  hill  is  of  solid  rock.  Here  it  is  proposed 
to  erect  a  monument  to  commemorate  the  virtues  and 
labors  of  the  devoted  Eliot,  who  for  nearly  sixty  years 
was  the  pastor  of  the  First  Church  in  Roxbury,  who, 
with  so  much  of  self-sacrifice  and  untu^mg  energy,  sought 
18* 


2l0  suBUiinAN  sionrs. 

to  civilize  and  Christianize  the  savage,  and  who  so  truly 
earned  the  noble  title  of  "  Apostle  to  the  Indians." 

On  the  south  of  Mount  Dearborn  is  another  eh^vation 
of  about  the  same  height,  wliicli  is  called  Fountain  Hill, 
from  the  spring  at  its  base,  before  alluded  to.  On  the 
side  of  the  Fountain  Dell  this  hill  is  very  precipitous,  and 
thickly  covered  with  trees  and  underwood.  The  eastern 
and  south-eastern  slopes  are  quite  steep,  but  much  less 
rugged  and  precipitous.  Down  its  sides  paths  lead  to 
Fountain  Dell  and  towards  Lake  Hibiscus,  which  can  be 
seen  gleaming  through  the  foliage.  Towards  the  south  a 
path  of  more  gentle  descent,  overlooking  the  lake,  leads 
down  to  the  grounds  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Field  of  Mach- 
l»('lah.  For  a  portion  of  the  distance,  the  outer  side  of 
this  path  is  supported  by  a  rough  wall,  through  which 
arbor  vitaj  and  other  trees  have  been  made  to  grow,  the 
roots  being  planted  below  the  wall.  These  trees,  when 
they  shall  attain  a  larger  gi-owth,  will  add  much  to  the 
])icturesque  beauty  of  this  hill  side. 

Into  this  portion  of  the  cemetery  the  southern  entrance 
opens,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  gateway  the  i)ine  grove 
retains  more  of  its  original  solemn  beauty.  Down  the 
avenue  which  leads  from  this  gateway  to  Walk  Hill  Street, 
with  its  thick  evergreens,  is  a  view  through  the  long  vista 
which  is  stnv,  to  attract  llw;  eye. 

Cypress   IJill,  which   is  the  first  elevation  on  the  open 


FOKKST    UILLS    CEMETERY.  211 

portion  of  the  cemetery,  immediately  overlooks  llu'  <iiiiet 
l)l:iiii  of  "  Canterbury,"  and  a  portion  of  the  neijrliboring 
cemetery  of  Mount  IIojx'.  On  the  opposite  side  tliera 
are  views  of  different  poilions  of  the  cemetery  grounds. 
There  are  but  few  trees  on  this  hill,  except  those  recently 
planted ;  but  there  is  a  quiet  charm  about  the  spot,  even 
in  its  openness  and  want  of  shade,  so  favorable  for  the 
distant  pros2)cct,  that  makes  it  one  of  the  attractive  local- 
ities of  the  cemetery.  East  of  Cypress  Hill  extend  tlie 
open  grounds,  jjrcsenting  an  undulating  surface  —  gentle 
swells  of  land,  which  gradually  descend  to  the  fertile 
plain  near  the  eastei-n  boundary. 

Lake  Hibiscus,  already  an  attractive  feature,  promises 
to  be  one  of  the  chief  beauties  of  Forest  Hills.  It  lies  a 
short  distance  cast  of  Fountain  Hill,  and  is  approached  by 
avenues  from  different  parts  of  the  cemetery.  In  it  two 
islands  have  been  formed,  one  of  Avhich  contains  a  copious 
and  never-failing  spring  of  ci'ystal  water,  which  gushes  up 
through  the  pebbly  bottom  of  a  little  basin.  About  the 
island  birches  are  planted,  and  willows  are  trained  across 
the  i-ustic  bridge  by  which  it  is  reached.  Tiiis  island  is  a 
favorite  resort  for  visitors,  who  gather  here  to  watch  the 
graceful  swans  and  the  snoAvy  ducks,  as  they  sail  about 
their  domain.  The  benutii'ul  sAvans,  esi)ecially,  are  always 
objects  of  interest,  and  are  quite  ready  to  meet  their  vis- 
itoi's,  and  receive  food  from  their  hands.     From   them   the 


212 


SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 


other  island,  which  is  larger  than  that  containing  the  spring, 
takes  its  name,  and  to  their  use  it  is  to  be  appropriated. 

Tlie  numerous  boulders  which  are  scattered  over  some 
parts  of  the  cemetery  have  not  only  added  to  the  pictu- 


_  -vsj^.^;^ 


resque  character  of  its  scenery,  but  have  afforded  an  op- 
portunity for  rustic  ornament  in  laying  out  the  grounds 


FOREST    HILLS    CEMETERY.  213 

Some  of  the  most  striking  and  picturesque  rocks  have 
been  suffered  to  remain  in  their  natural  state,  the  hibor 
of  art  going  only  so  far  as  more  clearly  to  develop  their 
beauty,  and  to  adorn  the  grounds  around.  One  of  the 
most  picturesque  groups  of  these  rocks  is  on  the  lot  of 
General  William  H.  Sumner,  called  Sumner  Hill,  on  tlie 
western  slope  of  Mount  Warren.  They  have  not  suffered 
by  the  hand  of  art,  and  the  lot  is  one  of  the  most  beauti- 
ful and  appropriate  in  the  whole  cemetery. 

The  number  of  monuments  at  Forest  Hills,  compared 
with  the  number  of  lots  which  have  been  taken,  is  small. 
In  this  respect  it  presents  a  contrast  with  Mount  Auburn, 
when  that  cemetery  was  in  the  early  period  of  its  exist- 
ence. There,  monuments  were  erected  on  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  lots  first  taken ;  in  many  cases  before  the  lots 
were  enclosed,  and  before  interments  had  been  made  in 
them.  At  Forest  Hills,  from  the  first,  the  erection  of 
monuments  seems  to  have  been  the  exception  rather  than 
the  rule.  A  large  number  of  the  lots  are  enclosed,  and 
the  name  of  the  proprietor  is  borne  upon  the  gate,  with- 
out any  monumental  structure  or  stone.  Even  where 
interments  have  been  made,  the  grave  is  in  many  cases 
adorned  with  flowers,  or  is  marked  by  a  simple  slab  or 
scroll,  but  has  no  more  ostentatious  stone  to  bear  the  in- 
scriptions wliich  sorrow  sometimes  places  over  the  beloved 
and  the  good.     It  is  a  simpler  custom,  perhaps  less  attrac- 


214  SUBURBAN    SIGHTS. 

tive  to  the  eye  of  some  observers,  but  quite  as  impressive 
to  the  heart  of  him 

" who  wanders  through  these  solitudes 


In  mood  contemplative." 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  some  of  the  scenery  and 
beauties  of  Forest  Hills,  designed  to  lead  the  reader  to 
those  places  where  the  beauties  may  be  seen,  rather  than 
to  describe  them.  The  eye  of  taste  will  find  much  to  ob- 
serve that  has  not  here  been  mentioned,  and  in  nearly  all 
parts  of  the  cemetery  objects  and  views  which  will  attract 
and  delight.  Time,  too,  must  create  much  that  will  add 
to  the  attractions  of  the  place.  But,  even  now,  it  needs 
only  a  visit  to  see  and  to  feel  that  Foi  est  Hills,  in  their 
natural  and  artificial  beauty  and  fitness,  are  not  surpassed 
by  any  other  rural  or  garden  cemetery. 


ADD  ENDA. 


The  rates  of  fare  in  the  city  of  Boston,  to  be  taken  by 
or  paid  to  the  owner  or  cbiver  of  any  licensed  carriage,  are 
as  follows :  — 

For  carrying  a  passenger  from  one  place  to  another, 
within  the  city  proper,  thirty  and  thirty-seven  cents. 

For  childi'en  between  three  and  twelve  years  of  age, 
if  more  tnan  one,  or  if  accompanied  by  an  adult,  half 
price  only  is  charged  for  each  child;  and  for  children 
under  three  years  of  age,  when  accompanied  by  their 
parents,  or  any  adult,  no  charge  is  made.  Every  driver 
or  owner  of  any  licensed  carriage  is  obliged  to  carry  with 
each  passenger  one  trunk,  and  a  valise,  saddle  bag,  carpet 
bag,  portmanteau,  box,  bundle,  basket,  or  other  article 
used  in  travelling,  if  he  be  requested  so  to  do,  without 
charge  or  compensation  therefor ;  but  for  every  trunk  or 
other  such  article  as  above  named,  more  than  two,  he  is 
entitled  to  demand  and  receive  the  sum  of  live  cents. 

(215) 


216  ADDENDA. 


DISTAIS'CES  IN  BOSTON  FROM    THE   EXCHANGE,  IN 

STATE   STREET. 

To  the  Providence  Depot,  three  quarters  of  a  mile ;  the 
"Worcester  and  Old  Colony  Depots,  two  thirds  of  a  mile ; 
the  Boston  and  Maine  Depot,  one  third  of  a  mile ;  the 
Lowell  Depot,  two  thirds  of  a  mile ;  the  Eastern  Depot, 
half  a  mile ;  Bunker  Hill  Monument  and  Navy  Yard, 
one  and  a  quarter  miles ;  Roxbury,  two  and  a  half  miles ; 
Chelsea,  two  miles ;  Cambridge  bridge,  three  quarters  of 
a  mile  ;  Harvard  University,  three  and  a  half  miles  ; 
Mount  Auburn,  four  and  a  half  miles ;  Fresh  Pond,  five 
miles ;  East  Boston,  one  and  one  third  miles ;  Mount 
Washington  and  Dorchester  Heights,  South  Boston,  two 
miles ;  House  of  Rtfoi-mation,  South  Boston,  two  and 
three  quarters  miles. 


Steamers  leave  Boston  —  For  Eastport,  Calais, 
and  St.  Johns,  N.  B.  The  steamers  Adelaide  and 
Admiral  leave  Lincoln's  Wharf. 

For  Gardiner,  Hallowell,  Richmond,  and  Bath. 
The  steamer  Governor  leaves  Foster's  "\\liai*f. 


ADDENDA. 


217 


For  Bangor  and  intermediate  landings.  The  steamer 
Menemon  Sandford  leaves  Foster's  Wharf. 

For  Bangor.  Inland  route,  via  Portland.  The  steamer 
Daniel  Webster  leaves  Portland  on  arrival  of  the  train 
that  leaves  Boston. 

For  HiNGHAM.  The  steamer  Mayflower  leaves  Liv- 
erpool Wharf. 

For  Nahant.  The  steamer  Nelly  Baker  leaves 
Liverpool  Wharf. 

For  Portland.  The  steamers  Atlantic  and  For- 
est City  leave  Central  Wharf. 

From  Portland  the  Grand  Trunk  Railavay  passes 
throuofli 


Falmouth, 
Cumberland, 
Yarmouth, 
Yarmouth  Junction, 
North  Yarmouth, 
Pownall, 
New  Gloucester, 
Cobb's  Bridge, 
Danville  Junction, 
Hotel  Road, 
Empire  Road, 
19 


Mechanic  Falls, 
Oxford, 
South  Paris, 
North  Paris, 
Bryant's  Pond, 
Locke's  Mill, 
Bethel, 
West  Bethel, 
Gilcad, 
Slielburnc, 
Gorliam, 


218 


ADDENDA. 


Berlin  Falls, 

Milan, 

Stark, 

Northumberland, 

Stratford  Hollow, 

North  Stratford, 

Wenlock, 

Island  Pond, 

Norton, 

Coaticook, 

Compton, 

Waterville, 

Lennoxville, 


Sherbrooke, 

Windsor, 

Richmond, 

Durham, 

Acton, 

Upton, 

Britannia  Mills, 

St.  Hyacinthe, 

Soixante, 

St.  Hilaire, 

Boucherville  Mountain, 

Charons, 

Montreal. 


Fi-om  Richmond  the  road  running  to  Quebec  passes 
through 


Richmond, 

Danville, 

Warwick, 

Arthabaska, 

Stanfold, 

Somerset, 


Becancour, 

Methott's  Mill, 

Black  River, 

Craig's  Road, 

Chaudiere, 

Point  Levi,  South  Quebec. 


ADDENDA. 


219 


The  Eastern  Railroad,  after  leaving  its  depot  in 
Causeway  Street,  foot  of  Friend  and  Canal  Streets,  passes 
through 


Somerville, 

South  Maiden, 

Chelsea, 

North  Chelsea, 

Lynn, 

Swampscot, 

Salem, 

Beverly, 

Wenham, 

Ipswich, 


Rowley, 

Salisbury, 

Newburyport, 

Seabrook, 

Hampton, 

Hampton  Falls, 

North  Hampton, 

Greenland, 

Portsmouth. 


The  FiTCHBURG  Railroad,  after  leaving  the  depot  in 
Causeway  Street,  passes  through 


Somerville, 

Porter's, 

Wellington  Hill, 

Waverley, 

Waltham, 

Stony  Brook, 

"Weston, 

Lincoln, 

Concord, 


South  Acton, 
West  Acton, 
Littleton, 
Groton  Junction, 
Shirley, 
Lunenburg, 
Leominster, 
Fitchburg. 


220 


ADDENDA. 


The  Boston    and    Maine  Railroad,  aftei-  leaving 
Haymarket  Square,  passes  through 


Somerville, 

Edgeworth, 

Maiden, 

Wyoming, 

Melrose, 

Stoneham, 

Greenwood, 

South  Reading, 

Reading, 

"Wilmington, 

Wilmington  Junction, 

Ballardvale, 

Andover, 

Lawrence, 

North  Andover, 

Bradford, 

Haverhill, 


Atkinson, 

Plaistow, 

Newton, 

East  Kingston, 

Exeter, 

South  Newmarket, 

P.  and  C.  Junction, 

Newmarket, 

Durham, 

Madbury, 

Dover, 

Rolhnsford, 

Great  Falls, 

Salmon  Falls, 

South  Berwick, 

Portland. 


The  Boston  and   Lowell   Railroad,  leaving  its 
depot  in  Lowell  Street,  passes  through 


East  Cambridge, 
Milk  Row,  Somerville, 


Somerville  Centre, 
Willow  Bridge, 


ADDENDA. 


221 


Branch 


Medford  Steps, 

West  Medford 

Symmes's  Bridge, 

Winchester, 
Richardson's 
Horn  Pond, 
Woburn  Centre, 

East  Woburn, 


Woburn  Watering  Place, 
North  Woburn, 
Wilmington, 

Billerica  and  Tewksbuiy, 
Billerica  Mills, 
Bleachery,  Lowell, 
IVIiddlesex  Street,  Lowell, 
Lowell. 


The   Old    Colony   and    Fall    Eiver    Railroad, 
leaving  its  depot  in  Kneeland  Street,  passes  thi-ough 


Savin  Hill, 

Harrison  Square, 

Neponset, 

North  Quincy, 

Quincy, 

Braintree, 

South  Braintree, 

Randoljjh, 

North  Bridgewater, 


West  Bridgewater, 

Bridgewater, 

JVIiddleboro', 

Myi-ick's, 

Fall  River, 

South  Abington, 

East  Bridgewater, 

Kingston, 

Plymouth. 


Train  leaves  Myrick's  for  Fall  River  on  arrival  of  the 
train  from  New  Bedford. 

Dorchester  and  Milton  Branch  trains  leave  Bos- 
ton for  Granite  Bridge,  Milton  Lower  and  Upper  Mills. 
19* 


222 


ADDENDA. 


The  Boston  and   Worcester   Railroad,  leaving 
its  depot  in  Kneeland  Street,  passes  through 


Cambridge  Crossing, 

Brighton, 

Newton  Corner, 

Newtonville, 

"West  Newton, 

Auburn  dale, 

Newton  Lower  Falls, 

Grantville, 

"West  Needham, 

Natick, 

Saxonville,  (Branch,) 

Framingham, 


East  Holliston, 

Holliston, 

Metcalf's, 

Bragg's, 

Milford, 

Ashland, 

Southboro', 

"Westboro'j 

Grafton, 

Millbury, 

"Worcester. 


NORWICH  STEAMBOAT  ROUTE  FOR  NEW  YORK, 

Landing  in  New  York  at  the  pier  of  the  New  Jersey 
Railroad,  making  a  direct  through  route  from  Boston  to 
Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  "Washington,  &c.  ;  con- 
necting also  with  the  New  York  and  Erie  Railroad, 
for  all  the  principal  places  west  and  south-west. 


ADDENDA.  223 

Cars  leave  the  Boston  and  Worcester  Railroad 
station,  Albany  Street,  Boston,  every  day,  at  five  and  a 
half,  P.  M. 

The  new,  fast,  and  elegant  steamer  Commonwealth, 
Capt.  J.  W.  Williams,  Mondays,  Wednesdays,  and  Fridays. 

The  fast  and  magnificent  steamer  Connecticut,  Capt. 
William  Wilcox,  Tuesdays,  Thursdays,  and  Saturdays. 

The  boats  are  unrivalled,  the  Connecticut  being  one 
of  the  finest  and  fastest  steamers  afloat,  and  the  Common- 
wealth the  ne  plus  ultra  of  steamboat  architecture. 

The  cars  are  the  easiest  ever  invented,  each  car  having 
sixteen  wheels,  with  double  springs. 

The  road  track  is  the  freest  from  dust  of  all  the  roads 
in  New  England. 

The  convenience  of  the  landing  in  New  York,  being  at 
Pier  18  North  River,  the  pier  of  the  Jersey  Ferry,  the 
Philadelphia  Raih-oad,  the  Erie  Railroad,  and  next  adja- 
cent to  the  pier  of  the  Albany  boats. 

The  saving  of  "  hackage  "  in  the  transfer  of  baggage  in 
New  York  to  those  going  South  or  West. 

The  expedition  of  the  route,  arriving  in  time  to  take 
the  early  trains  South  or  West. 

The  conductors  accompany  the  passengers  through  from 
Boston  to  New  York,  having  charge  of  their  baggage, 
whereby  mistakes  are  avoided,  or  quickly  rectified,  should 
any  occur. 


224  ADDENDA. 

The  conductors,  being  always  at  hand,  "will  give  their 
attention  to  the  transfer  of  baggage  to  the  Southern  or 
"Western  lines,  or  procure  conveyances  in  or  from  New 
York. 

Freight  taken  as  low  as  by  any  other  line. 

Tickets,  berths,  and  state  rooms  secm-ed  at  the  office  of 
the  Adams  Express  Cojipany,  84  Washington  Street, 
Boston.  C.  Pratt,  Jr.,  Agent. 


CONCLUSION. 


Having   rendered     all   the   services   in   our  power  to 

patrons,   we    beg   leave   to   introduce   those   who   tender 

theirs.     They  comprise  some  of  the  most  influential  firms 

in   the   city ;  and  we  cannot  better  finish  our  work  than 

by  transferi'ing    (with  many   thanks)    continued  labor  to 

them. 

(225) 


HALLET,  DAVIS  &  CO 


Warerooms  109  Wti^liiDglon  Street,  near  Boylston  Market,  Boston,  Mass. 


MANUFACTURERS  OF 


Crraiicl,  Parlor   Graaid   and   Square 

PI^:t^O-FORTES, 

With  Patent  Suspension  Bridije,  Composition  Bearings,  and  Repeating  Grand  Action. 


iS^  EVERY  PIANO  FULLY  WARRANTED.  ,,^3 


As  a  proof  of  the  superiority  of  our  Pianos,  which  contain  improve- 
ments that  cannot  be  found  in  those  of  anv  other  make,  we  have 
received  TWELVE  FIRST  PREMIUMS  within  the  last  eight  years. 
As  a  further  testimony  see  following  extracts,  from  among  the  many 
letters  received  :  — 

After  the  many  severe  tests  that  I  have  piven  your  instruments,  I  unhesi- 
tatingly pronounce  tliem  eminently  superior  in  action,  elasticity  of  touch,  and 
power  of  tone,  to  any  I  have  ever  used  in  this  or  the  old  country.  Another 
striking  feature  in  both  your  Grand  and  Square  Pianos,  (and  wheie  others  too 
often  fail,)  is  their  remaining  in  tune  under  the  heaviest  and  most  difficult  play- 
ing, not  a  string  shatterin;^  or  flatting,  and  the  action  remainintr  so  perfect  tliat 
the  performer  is  enabled,  at  all  times,  to  give  instantaneous  effect  to  emphatic 
passages.  I  am,  Gentlemen,  yours,  very  sincerely, 

Boston,  Sept.  1855.  GUSTAVE   SATTER. 

Owing  to  the  beautiful  elasticity  of  the  action  of  your  Grand  Piano-Forfes, 
(which  possesses  the  same  qualities  as  the  action  that  has  contributed  to  give 
Erard  his  world-wide  reputation,)  I  think  it  would  be  impossible  for  any  pianist 
who  played  properly,  to  break  either  a  string  or  a  hammer.  I  certainly  never 
have  broken  them.  In  conclusion,  1  begtoexpress  to  you  my  perfect  satisfaction, 
iu  every  respect,  witli  regard  to  your  Grand  I'iaho-Fortes. 

Very  truly  yours,        WM.  MASON. 


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in  the  world  excels  Boston  in  the  skill  of  its  Dental 
Surgeons.  The  stranger  who  traverses  the  city  will  he 
struck  with  the  high  position  they  hold ;  hut  nowhere  will  he 
find  this  art  in  higher  perfection,  than  if,  arrested  by  a  curious 
anatomical  exhibition  of  the  progress  of  dentition,  to  be  seen  in 
an  elegant  show  case,  at  25  Trcniont  Row,  opposite  the  Boston 
Museum,  he  ascends  to  the  rooms  of  Drs.  Cummings  &  Flagg. 
The  Doctors  are  always  ready  to  give  the  latest  improvements 
in  the  best  style,  with  betterments  of  their  own.  Their  mode 
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pheric suction,  without  hooks  or  any  dependence  whatever  in 
remaining  teeth  or  stumps,  is  essentially  their  own  and  emi- 
nently successful. 

The  power  of  any  man  to  do  tldngs  in  the  rigid  way  is  always 
discovered  by  the  public  sooner  or  later,  and  accordingly  the 
public  has  discovered  Drs.  Cummings  &  Flagg  to  be  the  first 
practical  dentists  of  the  city  of  dentists,  and  are  carrying  their 
work  to  every  dinner  table  in  Christendom.  —  Boston  Journal. 

Another  Achievement  in  Dentistry.  Teeth  Extracted  without 
Pain.  —  Drs.  Cummings  &  Flagg,  25  Tremont  Street,  have  prac- 
tised with  great  success,  the  new  discovery  of  extracting  teeth 
without  pain,  by  a  simple  local  application  to  the  gums.  The 
operation  is  rendered  perfectly  harmless  and  free  from  pain. 
These  enterprising  gentlemen  are  noted  for  the  speedy  adop- 
tion of  every  useful  improvement  calculated  to  lessen  the  pain 
and  increase  the  comfort  of  their  numerous  patrons. — Saturday 
Evening  Gazette. 

Drs.  Cummings  &  Flagg,  Surgeon  Dentists,  25  Tremont  St., 
are  professional  men  of  the  highest  standing  in  their  line. — 
Transcript. 


m-mmoi 


DRS.  CUMMINGS   &   FLAGG, 

25  TREMONT  STREET, 

(Opposite  Museum,)  BOSTON. 

A.  CUMJIIXGS,  M.  D.  G.  11.  P.  FLAGG 


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"  This  elementary  treatise  holds  a  very  high  rank  among  the  edu- 
cational works  of  the  day,  having  been  introduced  into  most  of  the 
best  managed  and  popular  seminaries  of  learning,  i)oth  in  England 
and  the  United  States.  It  is  got  up  in  correct  and  beautiful  style." 
—  Merchants^  Magazine. 

"From  stereotype  plates,  and  the  new  ninth  edition  revised  by  its 
author,  have  just  been  published,  in  a  fairer  and  handsomer  style, 
than  the  English  copy,  Archbishop  Whately's  Elements  of  Logic, 
which,  like  the  'Rhetoric'  by  the  same  prelate,  has  taken  its  place 
as  a  standard  work,  and  is  too  generally  known  and  used  to  need 
special  notice."  —  Christian,  Inquirer. 


WHATELY'S   ELEMENTS  OF   RHETORIC. 

ELEMENTS  OF  RHETORIC  :  comprising  an  Analysis 
of  the  Laws  of  Moral  Evidence  and  of  Persuasion,  with 
Rules  for  Argumentative  Composition  and  Elocution.  New 
Edition,  revised  by  the  Author.  Large  12mo.  pp.  54G. 
$1.00. 

"  The  Elements  of  Rhetoric  has  become  so  much  a  standard  work 
that  it  might  seem  superfluous  to  speak  of  it.  In  short,  we  should 
not  dream  of  teaching  a  college  class  from  any  other  book  on  Rnel- 
oric.  Communion  with  Whately's  mind  would  improve  any  mmd 
on  earth."  —  Presbyterian  Quarterly  Review. 


PERUVIAN    SYEUP 


OR   PROTECTED 

SOLUTION  OF  PROTOXIDE  OF  IRON  COMBINED. 

Having  successfully  passed  the  ordeal  to  which  new  discoveries  in 
the  Materia  Medica  are  subjected,  must  now  be  received  as  an  es- 
tablished medicine. 

ITS    EFFICACY,   IN   CUBING 

DYSPEPSIA, 

Affections  of  the  Liver^  Dropsy,  Neuralgia,  Bronchitis  and  Con- 
sumptive tendencies.  Disordered  stale  of  the  Blood,  Boils, 
Scurvy,  and  the  prostrating-  effects  of  Lead  or  Mer- 
cury,  General  Debility,  and  all   diseases 
which  require  a  Tonic  and  Alter- 
ative medicine  is  beyond 
question. 
The  proofs  of  its  efficacy  are  so  numerous,  so  well  authenticated, 
and  of  such  peculiar  character,  that  sufferers  cannot  reasonably  hesi- 
tate to  receive  the  proffered  aid. 

The  Peruvian  Syrup  does  not  profess  to  be  a  cure-all,  but  its  range 
is  extensive,  liecause  many  diseases,  apparently  unlike,  are  intimately 
related,  and  proceeding  from  one  cause,  may  be  cured  by  one  remedy. 
The  class  of  diseases  for  wbich  the  Syrup  provides  a  cure,  is  pre- 
cisely that  which  has  so  often  baffled  the  highest  order  of  medical 
skill.  The  facts  are  tangible,  the  witnesses  accessible,  and  the 
safety  and  efficacy  of  the  Syrup  incontrovertible. 

Those  who  may  wish  for  an  opinion  from  disinterested  persons 
respecting  the  character  of  the  Syrup,  cannot  fail  to  be  satisfied  with 
the  following,  among  numerous  testimonials,  in  the  hands  of  the 
Agents.  The  signatures  are  those  of  gentlemen  well  known  in  the 
community,  and  of  the  highest  respectability. 


PERUVIAN    SYRUP. 


CARD. 

The  undersigned  having  experienced  the  beneficial  effects  of 
the  "  Peruvian  Syrup,"  do  not  hesitate  to  recommend  it  to  tlie 
attention  of  the  public. 

From  our  own  experience,  as  well  as  from  the  testimony  of 
others,  whose  intelligence  and  integrity  are  altogether  unques- 
tionable, we  have  no  doubt  of  its  etficacy  in  cases  of  Incipient 
Diseases  of  the  Lungs  and  Bronchial  Passages,  Dyspepsia,  Liver 
Complaint,  Dropsy,  Neuralgia,  etc.  Indeed  its  effects  would  be 
incredible,  but  from  the  high  character  of  those  who  have  wit- 
nessed them,  and  have  volunteered  their  testimony,  as  we  do 
ours,  to  its  restorative  power. 

JOHN  WEIU'ONT,         THOMAS  C.  AMORY,        THOMAS  A.  DEXTER 

PETER  HARVEY,  S.  H.  KENDALI>,  M.  D.,    .]AMES  C.  DUNN.        ' 

SAMUEL    MAY. 

NOTICE.  —  It  is  well  known  that  the  medicinal  effects  of  Protoxide  of  Iron 
ia  lost  by  even  a  brief  exposure  to  air,  and  that  to  maintain  a  solution  of  Pro- 
toxide of  Iron,  without  fuctlier  oxidation,  has  been  deemed  impossible. 

In  the  Peruvian  Syrup,  this  desiiable  point  is  attained  by  combination  in  a 
way  before  unknown  ;  and  this  solution  may  replace  all  the  proto-cailionatos, 
citrates,  and  tartrates  of  the  iMateria  Medica.  A.  A.  IlAYKS,  M.l)., 

16  Boylston  St.,  Boston,  U.  S  A.  Assayer  to  the  State  of  Mass 

Peruvian  Syrup  ;  or  Protected  Solution  of  Protoxide  of  Iron 
Combined. 

An  advertisement  appears  in  our  columns  this  morning,  setting 
forth  the  claims  of  the  Peruvian  Syrup,  and  showing  the  support 
upon  which  it  rests  its  claims  to  public  confidence.  We  feel  justi- 
fied in  calling  attention  to  this  medicine,  after  carefully  weighing  the 
evidence  of  its  beneficent  qualities.  It  presents  itself,  moreover,  in 
a  new  light,  no  secret  being  now  made  of  the  chief  ingredient  to 
which  it  owes  its  peculiar  wholesome  qualities.  The  value  of  iron 
to  the  system  is  well  known,  but  it  has  heretofore  been  deemed  im- 

Eossible  to  maintain  its  protoxide  in  solution,  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
e  of  permanent  value.  We  have  now,  however,  the  testimony  of 
Dr.  Hayes,  our  State  Assayer,  that  a  method  of  combination  has 
been  discovered,  which  obviates  this  difficulty,  and  that  this  prepa- 
ration of  the  protoxide  of  iron  may  replace  all  the  existing  combi- 
nations of  the  Materia  Medica. 

It  seems  to  us  that  an  objection  which  has  previously  existed 
against  this  medicine,  will  now  be  removed,  simultaneously  with 
that  veil  of  secrecy  which  was  the  cause  of  it.  It  is  now  raised  to 
a  par  with  many  other  preparations  in  constant  anH  legitimate  use, 
and  may  be  prescribed  for  such  cases  as  require  the  use  of  protoxide 
of  iron.  It  has  already  received  the  approbation  of  several  physi- 
cians of  high  standing,  while  the  proprietors  have  many  testimonials 
from  respectable  private  citizens  who  have  experienced  its  virtues. 
We  believe  that  they  do  not  maintain  that  it  is  a  panacea,  but  that 
it  is  very  efficacious  for  the  cure  of  a  variety  of  diseases  to  which 
the  human  race  is  prone.  We  would  call  aUentiou  to  their  adver- 
tisement. —  Daily  Advertiser,  June,  1857. 

Pkice,  large  bottles,  $2.00  ;  small  bottles,  $1.00. 

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